Has anyone converted back to straight gas

[Dropped HYbro]

It starts just out in gear won’t move

starts right up....shift into D...everythings fine....take my foot off the brake to start and move...literally the whole truck shakes like its going to fall apart....and the sound is metal teeth grinding against a metal teeth....this IS the worst sound ive ever heard from a vehicle...and Ive seen a rod come up through a block when I was younger....crazy....for 3 hours before this started truck was driving 200 miles into a trip...like a dream.....literally smooth shifting great....I have never experienced a failure of this nature....ugggh!

 

[swathdiver]

I don't want to pull the differential apart...just asking if there is a way to tell if the 3.08 carrier/gears are literally broken up inside the pumpkin?

You can chock the front wheels, jack up the rear and put her in neutral and rotate the tires and have a good listen.

 

[Dropped HYbro]

It will start but won’t move out in gear and goes no where

any sounds from under the truck...have you tried M1-4?

 

[swathdiver]

It will start but won’t move out in gear and goes no where

This is often a pump problem but could be the TECHM, the module that controls everything. A repair shop will suggest an entire transmission rebuild when all that may be required is the repair of the solenoids for about $40 in parts plus fluid if you do it yourself. Don't even have to drop the trans for that one. If it's the pump, then it has to come down. You really need a Tech-2 or similar to see the internal codes and take readings to see what is going on inside.

 

[OR VietVet]

It will start but won’t move out in gear and goes no where

Ok, well how about any basic checks so far. Fluid levels and condition.

 

[swathdiver]

Ok, well how about any basic checks so far. Fluid levels and condition.

Like pulling teeth! We called this speaking in Superfluff.

 

[OR VietVet]

Like pulling teeth! We called this speaking in Superfluff.

When I ran shops I always liked talking to a woman to get info from them because they shared everything and were ok with my many questions.

Guys were ok at times too but they seemed afraid of showing they did not know much about vehicles and was like pulling teeth to get info at times. They also wanted to interject what they felt was the problem and of course, how to repair it. I had to fire a customer or two over the years.

 

[Dropped HYbro]

Like pulling teeth! We called this speaking in Superfluff.

do you know if the dealership technicians refer to their scanners as "Tech2"'s...just curious and want to be informed...I have an appointment to have my truck towed to our dealership on Saturday...If I'm going to pay for a diagnostic...I want them to use every resource they have available...not just say the "bucket of steam" drive belt is bad and its going to be $3500 to fix...dealerships really are a love/hate relationship.....

 

[OR VietVet]

I always offered reasons for what we found that was wrong and what needed to be done to fix. You have to ask for complete details of what they found.

For instance, I would never ever accept a tech or service writer telling me, "You need a new engine for $5000".

OK, well, why are you saying that? What was the cause of the failure? I would want COMPLETE documentation of all tests and the results.

 

[Dropped HYbro]

I always offered reasons for what we found that was wrong and what needed to be done to fix. You have to ask for complete details of what they found.

For instance, I would never ever accept a tech or service writer telling me, "You need a new engine for $5000".

OK, well, why are you saying that? What was the cause of the failure? I would want COMPLETE documentation of all tests and the results.

sound advice...I don't feel like being victimized because I want my truck fixed properly.

thanks again....will keep posting updates as this fiasco unfolds.

 

[OR VietVet]

Looking forward to it. Knowledge shared is knowledge gained.

 

[swathdiver]

do you know if the dealership technicians refer to their scanners as "Tech2"'s...just curious and want to be informed...I have an appointment to have my truck towed to our dealership on Saturday...If I'm going to pay for a diagnostic...I want them to use every resource they have available...not just say the "bucket of steam" drive belt is bad and its going to be $3500 to fix...dealerships really are a love/hate relationship.....

They probably have Tech-2s around but have largely transitioned to the MDI2 with GDS2 software on a laptop. This was done for the newer cars but is backwards compatible and can talk to your truck.

Now, you have a RWD Hybrid, I bet that you have AXN RPO code which is for the 9.5" 14-bolt rear axle. If I'm wrong, it's got the 8.6" 10-bolt rear as most of us have. If the axle went bed (carrier), you could pick up a used one for about $400 and swap it out in an afternoon if you're handy with tools, provided you have the means to get it to your home and tools to do the work!

 

[OR VietVet]

They probably have Tech-2s around but have largely transitioned to the MDI2 with GDS2 software on a laptop. This was done for the newer cars but is backwards compatible and can talk to your truck.

Now, you have a RWD Hybrid, I bet that you have AXN RPO code which is for the 9.5" 14-bolt rear axle. If I'm wrong, it's got the 8.6" 10-bolt rear as most of us have. If the axle went bed (carrier), you could pick up a used one for about $400 and swap it out in an afternoon if you're handy with tools, provided you have the means to get it to your home and tools to do the work!

Are you saying the 9.5" 14-bolt is a drop in, like a third member? If it isn't, I personally would not want to attempt the gear lash set up without the proper tools and experience.

I ask because it has been long enough since I was in a shop that I don't know if there is a 3rd member design for that 9.5".

 

[Big Mama]

Jack up the rear and have someone else shift into drive for a sec while you’re outside to pinpoint the noise. But I thought earlier post said noise was behind driver’s seat. Could be though. I’m hoping it’s something much less expensive than a trans or electric motor or shaft.

 

[Dropped HYbro]

They probably have Tech-2s around but have largely transitioned to the MDI2 with GDS2 software on a laptop. This was done for the newer cars but is backwards compatible and can talk to your truck.

Now, you have a RWD Hybrid, I bet that you have AXN RPO code which is for the 9.5" 14-bolt rear axle. If I'm wrong, it's got the 8.6" 10-bolt rear as most of us have. If the axle went bed (carrier), you could pick up a used one for about $400 and swap it out in an afternoon if you're handy with tools, provided you have the means to get it to your home and tools to do the work!

that would be ideal....would love to change out the 3.08 for 3.73....I run much larger wheels and tires...3.73's are a great freeway gear...just don't know if that will mess with the electronics as far recharging the hybrid battery which happens when your degenerative breaking or slowing down....I'm not sure if its a sealed carrier type or the actual gears with like a pinion pin that prevents the axels from sliding out......I'll look tonight when I get home but I believe its the 14 bolt...

 

[Dropped HYbro]

Jack up the rear and have someone else shift into drive for a sec while you’re outside to pinpoint the noise. But I thought earlier post said noise was behind driver’s seat. Could be though. I’m hoping it’s something much less expensive than a trans or electric motor or shaft.

It's so hard to tell because the grinding comes with violent shaking...though it is below the truck to the rear of the driver seat...shifts into drive with no hesitation...you take your foot off that brake...all hell grinds and shakes violently...it will not move forward at all....almost feels like if you took two splines at full speed and dropped a piece of hardened steel between the two...if it is the rear end.....theres nothing left inside that pumpkin...except broken shards of steel....that's for sure.

 

[Dropped HYbro]

Jack up the rear and have someone else shift into drive for a sec while you’re outside to pinpoint the noise. But I thought earlier post said noise was behind driver’s seat. Could be though. I’m hoping it’s something much less expensive than a trans or electric motor or shaft.

just curious...any idea what a trans rebuild or remanufactured trans installed runs...ballpark??
or have you heard any stories of hybrid rebuilds and costs?

 

[OR VietVet]

It's so hard to tell because the grinding comes with violent shaking...though it is below the truck to the rear of the driver seat...shifts into drive with no hesitation...you take your foot off that brake...all hell grinds and shakes violently...it will not move forward at all....almost feels like if you took two splines at full speed and dropped a piece of hardened steel between the two...if it is the rear end.....theres nothing left inside that pumpkin...except broken shards of steel....that's for sure.

If the noise is in fact coming from there then you may have trans tailshaft/front driveshaft problems. Maybe a u-joint getting ready to disintegrate.

 

[BG1988]

Ok, well how about any basic checks so far. Fluid levels and condition.

check the 12v+ battery, bad battery = ¯\_(ツ)_/¯



or the trasmssion AUX pump is dead

 

[blade02]

Your posts don't tell us anything - "quit moving"?? - what does that mean? won't start? no power to engage starter? transmission locked? - come on man - more info if you really want help.

The engine starts when I put in gear it does nothing it is a 4x4 truck the fluid in the trans looks good and full I really never did anything with hybrids so don’t know much about the aux pump on the display it says service hybrid there were some codes when we scanned it but nothing to do with trans it’s been sitting for a year and only owned it for a year and three days