Growing up doesn't have to suck

[swathdiver]

Is this what we're looking at at 15+ years old now? New axles and window parts? LOL

That's a great deal and glad you found them so quick!

 

[iamdub]

Is this what we're looking at at 15+ years old now? New axles and window parts? LOL

That's a great deal and glad you found them so quick!

No matter how nice you are to them, age still happens! That plastic was disintegrating!

A deal, indeed. Perhaps divine intervention finding an ad specifically for two OEM regulators- bought for an '08 and in West Baton Rouge, where not much more than tractor parts, homemade goods and produce are sold.

The insurance adjuster tossed in a few extra bucks to cover the cost of the regulators so he wasn't losing anything. He just wanted 'em out of his storeroom and $20 a pop was good enough for him.

 

[iamdub]

After replacing that window regulator Sunday afternoon, I hitched up my trailer to go grab some landscaping rocks (maybe 200-300 lbs altogether, at most) that my Tahoe Twin buddy was giving to me. Came home, unhitched the trailer and parked in the garage- all was well. Showered and headed back out to go visit my stepdad in the hospital. Never exceeded 4,000 RPM since leaving the house and had the cruise set at 70 once I reached the highway. About five miles later, I felt what seemed like a loose wheel or U-joint vibrating. It went away when I lightly accelerated or shifted to neutral. Accelerating felt strange so I turned the radio down and heard clacking. Gauges showed all vitals were normal. There's no lights or any safe place to pull over, so I eased it to a well-lit gas station and shut it down. Oil on the dipstick looked good and saw nothing external. Clacking sounded like a lifter but also deeper and like there was more than one thing clicking/knocking.

Jenn was nearby so she picked me up and brought me to Walmart to get a tow strap. Garrett (the "Tahoe Twin") brought a floor jack and jack stands. I jacked up the rear, unbolted the driveshaft and roped it to the muffler:

Yes, those appear to be original U-joints. 14 years and 218K miles WITH me beating on 'em for the past 72K... I don't know what's going on, but I can't detect any slack in them.



Garrett dragging the Steel Hippo's carcass:

We got it home and pushed it into the garage. I took straight to Marketplace to start saving ads for NNBS vehicles being parted out to look for a replacement engine just in case. I gotta have this thing road trip ready for 11/9.

 

[iamdub]

On my way home Monday night, I met up with a guy that had a Marketplace ad for a 5.3 from an '08 Sierra 4WD. The ad was a couple hours old and I was the first to actually plan to meet and follow through. He said he didn't know exactly, but he knows the mileage isn't higher than the 140s. His story is that his cousin bought a truck that needed some repairs and he ended up not being able to get the title. They parted out the truck and made money on it and he kept the engine to put in an OBS he was restoring. He later decided he didn't wanna deal with the wiring, etc., so he replaced the 4.3 with a 5.7 of the same era and let it ride. Now, wanting to clean out his shop, he put the LC9 up for sale with the transfer case from that truck and one from another truck, asking "$800 but make an offer". He seemed like a good 'ol boy, probably mid-50s, a Marine and a mechanic at a local large Chevrolet dealership. He had a really nice shop at his house with two 2-post lifts. Lots of LS and LT engines and parts stored all around and 6-8 GM vehicles parked near the shop and driveway. I didn't feel like I couldn't trust him. I said a partially disassembled pull-out on a stand that can't be ran or even spun over is technically worth "good" core price, which is $250-$400 in these parts. He agreed. I told him I'd feel that offering core price would be a lowball, and I wasn't even sure if I needed an engine so I was already risking a good bit, so I asked if $500 was too low. Thoroughly expecting him to counter with something like $700, I was surprised when he said "that's good". He just wanted to cull the herd. We shook on it and he said "but it's first come, first serve". I hauled ass home to at least pop off a rocker cover. It was around 10PM when I started.


I had a feeling it was the left side, so that's where I started and this is what I found:

See it yet? Take a closer look. Of course it'd be the farthest one:

The rocker and push rod appear perfect. Even the seal seems to be unscathed. I used a pen magnet to extract the locks. All cleared, I tried sliding the valve up and down- no dice. I tapped it with the head of a ratchet and it took about the force needed to drive a small finishing nail. So the piston definitely hit the valve and the stem is bent, but not so much that the valve can't move within it's normal range. So there's a chance I could get away with a new valve, guide and spring and buff out the piston. I won't know 'til I have the head off.

I decided that, due to needing it on the road ASAP, I was gonna drop in a known good engine if mine needed to come out. I didn't wanna be forced to settle for something sitting on the ground, under a tree in someone's yard as they tell me it has "about 50,000 miles". So, for $500, I could have an engine on standby. I think I could easily sell it If I didn't need it and get my money back. I told LC9 guy that night via Messenger (cuz it was now after midnight on Tuesday morning) that I definitely wanted it. He replied later that morning saying I was the first serious buyer but he had some others interested. I offered to send him payment to lock it down. I didn't feel it was a risk since I knew where he lived and worked, met his wife, etc.


Luckily, that day (yesterday), I was able to be home in time to unload the rocks from my trailer and toss on a large offroad tire to set the engine on. Garrett came to grab the trailer and me and we went 45 mins west to get the engine.

At one of our stops to check the straps. Yes, those are my old 22s:

It came with the intake manifold. It wasn't bolted down so we set it in the back of the Tahoe. It's complete with throttle body, MAP sensor, fuel rail and injectors. It's identical to mine, which is FlexFuel. I'd really like to swap the cam and other AFM delete bits to the LC9 so I'd basically be back where I was before the failure, minus the heads. Unless I could get my driver side head fixed quickly enough. But, I don't wanna crack it open. I just wanna clean it, re-seal it and enjoy unmolested reliability. I'd be down about 100 HP, but I'd be able to run 87, which would be nice for my road trip.

 

[swathdiver]

If memory serves, your were messing around under those valve covers not too long ago, it was rockers right? This is what always made me leery of running beehives instead of dual springs.

How many L92 owners have come on here with busted #7s or #8s over the years?

 

[89Suburban]

After replacing that window regulator Sunday afternoon, I hitched up my trailer to go grab some landscaping rocks (maybe 200-300 lbs altogether, at most) that my Tahoe Twin buddy was giving to me. Came home, unhitched the trailer and parked in the garage- all was well. Showered and headed back out to go visit my stepdad in the hospital. Never exceeded 4,000 RPM since leaving the house and had the cruise set at 70 once I reached the highway. About five miles later, I felt what seemed like a loose wheel or U-joint vibrating. It went away when I lightly accelerated or shifted to neutral. Accelerating felt strange so I turned the radio down and heard clacking. Gauges showed all vitals were normal. There's no lights or any safe place to pull over, so I eased it to a well-lit gas station and shut it down. Oil on the dipstick looked good and saw nothing external. Clacking sounded like a lifter but also deeper and like there was more than one thing clicking/knocking.

Jenn was nearby so she picked me up and brought me to Walmart to get a tow strap. Garrett (the "Tahoe Twin") brought a floor jack and jack stands. I jacked up the rear, unbolted the driveshaft and roped it to the muffler:

View attachment 382736



Yes, those appear to be original U-joints. 14 years and 218K miles WITH me beating on 'em for the past 72K... I don't know what's going on, but I can't detect any slack in them.



Garrett dragging the Steel Hippo's carcass:

View attachment 382737




We got it home and pushed it into the garage. I took straight to Marketplace to start saving ads for NNBS vehicles being parted out to look for a replacement engine just in case. I gotta have this thing road trip ready for 11/9.

On my way home Monday night, I met up with a guy that had a Marketplace ad for a 5.3 from an '08 Sierra 4WD. The ad was a couple hours old and I was the first to actually plan to meet and follow through. He said he didn't know exactly, but he knows the mileage isn't higher than the 140s. His story is that his cousin bought a truck that needed some repairs and he ended up not being able to get the title. They parted out the truck and made money on it and he kept the engine to put in an OBS he was restoring. He later decided he didn't wanna deal with the wiring, etc., so he replaced the 4.3 with a 5.7 of the same era and let it ride. Now, wanting to clean out his shop, he put the LC9 up for sale with the transfer case from that truck and one from another truck, asking "$800 but make an offer". He seemed like a good 'ol boy, probably mid-50s, a Marine and a mechanic at a local large Chevrolet dealership. He had a really nice shop at his house with two 2-post lifts. Lots of LS and LT engines and parts stored all around and 6-8 GM vehicles parked near the shop and driveway. I didn't feel like I couldn't trust him. I said a partially disassembled pull-out on a stand that can't be ran or even spun over is technically worth "good" core price, which is $250-$400 in these parts. He agreed. I told him I'd feel that offering core price would be a lowball, and I wasn't even sure if I needed an engine so I was already risking a good bit, so I asked if $500 was too low. Thoroughly expecting him to counter with something like $700, I was surprised when he said "that's good". He just wanted to cull the herd. We shook on it and he said "but it's first come, first serve". I hauled ass home to at least pop off a rocker cover. It was around 10PM when I started.


I had a feeling it was the left side, so that's where I started and this is what I found:

View attachment 382738




See it yet? Take a closer look. Of course it'd be the farthest one:

View attachment 382739




The rocker and push rod appear perfect. Even the seal seems to be unscathed. I used a pen magnet to extract the locks. All cleared, I tried sliding the valve up and down- no dice. I tapped it with the head of a ratchet and it took about the force needed to drive a small finishing nail. So the piston definitely hit the valve and the stem is bent, but not so much that the valve can't move within it's normal range. So there's a chance I could get away with a new valve, guide and spring and buff out the piston. I won't know 'til I have the head off.

I decided that, due to needing it on the road ASAP, I was gonna drop in a known good engine if mine needed to come out. I didn't wanna be forced to settle for something sitting on the ground, under a tree in someone's yard as they tell me it has "about 50,000 miles". So, for $500, I could have an engine on standby. I think I could easily sell it If I didn't need it and get my money back. I told LC9 guy that night via Messenger (cuz it was now after midnight on Tuesday morning) that I definitely wanted it. He replied later that morning saying I was the first serious buyer but he had some others interested. I offered to send him payment to lock it down. I didn't feel it was a risk since I knew where he lived and worked, met his wife, etc.


Luckily, that day (yesterday), I was able to be home in time to unload the rocks from my trailer and toss on a large offroad tire to set the engine on. Garrett came to grab the trailer and me and we went 45 mins west to get the engine.

At one of our stops to check the straps. Yes, those are my old 22s:

View attachment 382740




It came with the intake manifold. It wasn't bolted down so we set it in the back of the Tahoe. It's complete with throttle body, MAP sensor, fuel rail and injectors. It's identical to mine, which is FlexFuel. I'd really like to swap the cam and other AFM delete bits to the LC9 so I'd basically be back where I was before the failure, minus the heads. Unless I could get my driver side head fixed quickly enough. But, I don't wanna crack it open. I just wanna clean it, re-seal it and enjoy unmolested reliability. I'd be down about 100 HP, but I'd be able to run 87, which would be nice for my road trip.

BRO WTF!!!!!!!!

 

[pwtr02ss]

Damn. So, engine swap instead of just busting the head off and swapping the valve and spring?

 

[Just Fishing]

That sucks!
it almost looked like the valve was still attached to the retainer, but that sideways slant... eww!

 

[George B]

Damn. So, engine swap instead of just busting the head off and swapping the valve and spring?

My thoughts too. Seems Chris could have a valve in there in an afternoon.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Also, what springs were those? Brand

I had a valve spring break on my s10 but fortunately, it didn't hit the piston. That's was at 299k miles tho...

 

[iamdub]

If memory serves, your were messing around under those valve covers not too long ago, it was rockers right? This is what always made me leery of running beehives instead of dual springs.

How many L92 owners have come on here with busted #7s or #8s over the years?

Si. Replaced rockers with new OEM and measured all 16 for different push rods for better preloads.

I had a few minutes of downtime between jobs today and did some digging. Apparently, GM had a bad batch of springs in the '02-'03 LS6s. I was always lead to believe the yellow springs were rated for a little higher seat pressure and lobe lift than the blue springs and, therefore, were the lesser common and more coveted ones. This set is from some Z06 heads I had for a past project that got dual springs. The heads had less than 30K on them and the springs were kept in a box until I did my 5.3 work two years ago. I've gone just under 19K miles, so the springs have less than 50K on 'em. My cam is similar to the '02-'04 LS6 in lift and maximum duration (exhaust side), and I'm not turning more than 6K RPM. So, the springs aren't worked any harder in my 5.3 than they would be in a stock '02+ LS6. With this revelation, I have to say that I unknowingly installed a set of defective springs, thinking I was installing the better of the OEM spring options.

I haven't really followed L92 spring failures. What's the deets on this? I'm intrigued about failures being specifically to #7 and #8.

 

[iamdub]

BRO WTF!!!!!!!!

Luck of the draw. Maybe.

I ain't mad. I stand by my previous statement that this 5.3 owes me NOTHING. It's only a hassle due to the timing. I gotta take this thing to Tampa in a month.

 

[iamdub]

Damn. So, engine swap instead of just busting the head off and swapping the valve and spring?

It's obvious the piston kissed the valve. I don't know the damage to the piston. The head has to come off anyway, so I'll inspect the piston then. I wanted to have an engine on standby in case the piston was damaged. Time is of the essence and work is poppin' right now. I'm only on TYF now to wind down mentally and shift gears from work to Tahoe mode. After catching up here, I'll get out in the shop. Garrett stopped by a few minutes ago to push the Hoe into the shop with his 4-wheeler. I'm gonna get it in the air, then roll the trailer under it to use the chainfall to offload the LC9 and have it waiting on the stand. I already have all gaskets for it en route.

Depending on time, I may drain the oil and coolant so I can get straight to removing the intake manifold and head tomorrow as soon as I get home if I don't work late. And I'm on call this weekend.

Also, if the piston is ok and I just need the head fixed (new valve, guide, etc.), then I'm gonna replace all 16 springs with what I think are the LS3 springs. IIRC, those replaced the tried-and-true blue LS6 springs. I'll pull the other head to do this cuz I already have a full set of new OEM TTY bolts and swapping the springs with a C-clamp style compressor and reinstalling the head is MUCH easier and faster than doing it in the car with one of those crappy screw-down compressors, which I'd have to buy. I'm not spending $30 (or whatever they cost) to work harder.

 

[iamdub]

That sucks!
it almost looked like the valve was still attached to the retainer, but that sideways slant... eww!

It wasn't. The tip of the valve stem was about 1/2" lower. The valve was hanging down in the cylinder, hovering just above the piston at the height the piston could push it up to. The locks were sitting near the head bolt and the retainer was pinned under the rocker with what little pressure the spring still had on it.

I don't think the stem is bent all that badly. I was able to hammer it down with some moderate taps with a 3/8" ratchet. So, it couldn't have a terrible amount of bend in it... right?

This is what gives me a ray of hope that the piston didn't experience much resistance, it caught the valve face somewhat squarely and it would just have some superficial scallops in it that I'll buff a little to remove potential stress risers and hot spots. It's not boosted or sprayed and the SCR is only 10.5:1.

Lots of finger crossing here.

 

[Just Fishing]

It wasn't. The tip of the valve stem was about 1/2" lower. The valve was hanging down in the cylinder, hovering just above the piston at the height the piston could push it up to. The locks were sitting near the head bolt and the retainer was pinned under the rocker with what little pressure the spring still had on it.

I don't think the stem is bent all that badly. I was able to hammer it down with some moderate taps with a 3/8" ratchet. So, it couldn't have a terrible amount of bend in it... right?

This is what gives me a ray of hope that the piston didn't experience much resistance, it caught the valve face somewhat squarely and it would just have some superficial scallops in it that I'll buff a little to remove potential stress risers and hot spots. It's not boosted or sprayed and the SCR is only 10.5:1.

Lots of finger crossing here.

If it works out, I have two brand new GM valves floating around here.

Knee jerk reaction to seeing a small space on my valve stem tips, can't cancel a buy it now ebay purchase!

 

[Just Fishing]

GM PN 12564338
(Looks like intake valves)
Pay shipping and they are yours!

 

[iamdub]

My thoughts too. Seems Chris could have a valve in there in an afternoon.

LOL

Work is keeping me hemmed up lately and I'm too old to burn the midnight 10W-40 these days. For experiencing a failure late Sunday night to already finding a backup engine less than 24 hours later, acquiring that engine (from 45+ mins away) less than 24 hours after that, all after work, with refresh parts for it on the way, I think I'm doing okay so far.

Once I dive into the engine bay, it'll go quickly. Everything is still new-ish and clean.

 

[iamdub]

If it works out, I have two brand new GM valves floating around here.

Knee jerk reaction to seeing a small space on my valve stem tips, can't cancel a buy it now ebay purchase!

Awesome! I haven't even looked up part numbers. But you have an exhaust valve for a 243/799?

Just looked it up: 1.550".

Oh, and valves shouldn't be floating...

 

[Just Fishing]

Awesome! I haven't even looked up part numbers. But you have an exhaust valve for a 243/799?

Just looked it up: 1.550".

Oh, and valves shouldn't be floating...

I just have the new intake valves.

Exhaust valves,
I could pull out of my original heads (799), but they are sitting outside due to lack of space.

 

[iamdub]

GM PN 12564338
(Looks like intake valves)
Pay shipping and they are yours!

Dammit! Thanks, but I just need one exhaust valve, if anything.

Wasn't it Alanis Morissette that said "...it's like two intake valves, when all you need is one exhaust... ...Isn't it ironic"