Getting my AFM tuned out for $150

[Lightning 95]

On Monday I'm taking my 13 PPV to a local shop that can tune out my annoying AFM, adjust my speedo to a 1/2 inch taller tire, and adjust my shift points for $150. Is there anything to be concerned about, or what else should I have tweaked?

 

[swathdiver]

If they're tuning it while you drive it, maybe take out some of the torque management, put a little more power to the ground earlier. Watch that 2nd gear roll when you step on it, instant downshift to 1st and away the rpms go!

Happy Thanksgiving!

 

[kwOH]

If they're tuning it while you drive it, maybe take out some of the torque management, put a little more power to the ground earlier. Watch that 2nd gear roll when you step on it, instant downshift to 1st and away the rpms go!

Happy Thanksgiving!

I need that...

 

[badandyturbo]

If they're tuning it while you drive it, maybe take out some of the torque management, put a little more power to the ground earlier. Watch that 2nd gear roll when you step on it, instant downshift to 1st and away the rpms go!

Happy Thanksgiving!

Yes. Do this ^

 

[iamdub]

If you plan to get longtube headers without cats, you can have them turn off the rear O2 codes. A shop near me does this level of tuning for $150 and I plan to have AFM disabled, TM reduced to maybe 25%, and the rear O2s turned off. I think that's all...

 

[Lightning 95]

If you plan to get longtube headers without cats, you can have them turn off the rear O2 codes. A shop near me does this level of tuning for $150 and I plan to have AFM disabled, TM reduced to maybe 25%, and the rear O2s turned off. I think that's all...

If you don't push it to hard, why not 100% torque management delete? I only had a problem with that once, when I was 16 with my dad's 64 Plymouth Valient with a slant 6, 3 on the tree, and I disintegrated the rear.

 

[iamdub]

If you don't push it to hard, why not 100% torque management delete? I only had a problem with that once, when I was 16 with my dad's 64 Plymouth Valient with a slant 6, 3 on the tree, and I disintegrated the rear.

Because I'm an ass and tend to use whatever throttle is available. Having a damned 4-speed auto with grandpa shifting programming means that it tries to get to 3rd or 4th as quickly as possible. This makes it lug when accelerating in traffic. If I push the pedal a little more, it lugs harder then finally downshifts and revs out. There's no middle ground. I f-in' hate it and end up manually shifting it to keep it from constantly up- and downshifting. You should feel fortunate to have the 6-speed. Keeping some TM is my feeble attempt to not kill the 185,000-mile transmission. Well, that's what the odometer reads and I've had it since 146,000 so I don't know if the trans (or engine) has that many miles or not. But still.

If there's adjustments to have it pull timing just between shifts but not ignore throttle input and/or pull timing when giving it hard throttle, then I'll have them tweak that and remove all TM. That reminds me of a 4th setting I'd like them to see if they can improve- throttle response. I'd like it to respond as if it had a cable TB.

 

[swathdiver]

We're more like a 5-speed with two overdrives. First is so short when driving normal. With the stock tune it takes a lot of pedal to get the truck to downshift from 2nd back into 1st but my BlackBear tune allows it to happen with little effort. When it does the the whole front end lifts up like my 12.0 GNs did and the rpms quickly reach the shift point and she's off like a rocket.

 

[Lightning 95]

Got my AFM programmed out this morning. The truck runs so much smoother now. While he was at it he corrected my speedo for my 1/2 taller winter tires, and changed the mph shift point for 1-2-3 by a few. Between that, and running some E-85 this thing has some balls now. Best $150 I've spent lately.

 

[iamdub]

Hell yeah!

I just confirmed my appointment for tomorrow morning to have mine tuned at Futral Motorsports. Killing AFM and the two rear O2s, reducing TM to 15%-20%, removing (or raising) the speed limiter, maybe other stuff. Jenn's taking it cuz she's the only one that's available but they're gonna coordinate with me over the phone. I'm kinda excited.

 

[Lightning 95]

Yeah, my speed limiter was set at 98 mph. Not anymore, but I don't plan on finding out what it is now?

 

[iamdub]

Yeah, my speed limiter was set at 98 mph. Not anymore, but I don't plan on finding out what it is now?

Same here. I'll let physics determine my speed limit. lol

Nah, there's not enough open road for me to get this brick up to risky speeds.

 

[Lightning 95]

The other thing different from getting the shift points changed, it now stays out of 5-6 gear while cruising around town below 35 mph, and also stays in 1st gear below 12 mph, or about 1500rpm when it shifts to 2nd at light throttle. Has better engine braking in 4th, instead of 6th. Although it might not improve fuel economy, it accelerates much faster with less throttle now, and shifts smoothly.

 

[iamdub]

Got mine done today but haven't driven it. Jenn took it in between running her errands. She hasn't mentioned if it drives any differently and I'm not gonna bother asking her. She's not into cars and has WAY too much going on elsewhere to pay it any attention. I'm just content and fortunate that she fit it into her schedule! I'll take it for a spin when she's home and settled.

 

[MidwestMike]

What are the local tunes costing you...?

 

[iamdub]

What are the local tunes costing you...?

On Monday I'm taking my 13 PPV to a local shop that can tune out my annoying AFM, adjust my speedo to a 1/2 inch taller tire, and adjust my shift points for $150. Is there anything to be concerned about, or what else should I have tweaked?

If you plan to get longtube headers without cats, you can have them turn off the rear O2 codes. A shop near me does this level of tuning for $150 and I plan to have AFM disabled, TM reduced to maybe 25%, and the rear O2s turned off. I think that's all...

My wild, pull-a-random-number-outta-my-ass guess is $150.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

My wild, pull-a-random-number-outta-my-ass guess is $150.

 

[Lightning 95]

Yep, it was $150 cash. I should have tipped them, because it was a very nice shop with good people, and they will make tweaks for free. I guess I'll tip them if I want a change, but it is perfect for now. It is now my recommended shop for locals that ask where to go for good work. This T-bird was in the waiting area bigger than my house.

 

[iamdub]

View attachment 187730

Does that mean I was close?

 

[iamdub]

I can't tell much difference in the throttle response and it really doesn't feel any more powerful. But, I rarely drive the thing so I don't have much of a baseline to compare to. I can say that it stays in V8 mode and the 1-2 shift at WOT feels quicker and firmer. Also, it pulled pretty solidly up to 120+ MPH. I thought I'd be able to powerbrake it, though. Does traction control and/or Stabilitrak kill throttle or timing even if TM has been almost completely removed? I didn't think to turn those off when testing. I just put it in 1st and turned on Tow/Haul mode.

He said they typically remove 80%-85% of TM, but I'm thinking he left more in it than that.