Gas Leak Fix

[96ProCompTahoe]

Got the great smell of gas coming from the rear end of the Hoe and need to know if there are any common problem places to start with to track down the leak.

the lines from the tank to the engine look good (rusty, but no signs of leaks) and the filler neck to the rubber hose looks good with no obvious signs of leaks.

i can see there are some other lines on top of the tank and i recall someone saying the locking ring for the fuel pump rusts out.



also, anyone have the quick run down to drop the tank? (looks like the saturday project)

 

[haks310]

Thank ravingmadman, not replacing a fuel pump but yeah:
http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1810


We need to start getting some of these threads stickied.

 

[96ProCompTahoe]

perfect, and pretty funny as well. hopefully it goes along without having to drop a bunch of cash into it at the moment.

 

[ravingmadman]

 

[wmgood64]

Good luck gas leaks blow!!!!!!!

 

[96ProCompTahoe]

yeah it smells great in the cab with the windows down....

anyone know if they sell the pump locking ring seperate or am i screwed into buying a whole new pump assembly?

 

[ravingmadman]

Is your locking ring broken? HTF did that happen?

 

[96ProCompTahoe]

had to come in and look at the write up, but so far the filler hose was loose on both ends, and after some sitting under the truck (great thats its lifted till we have to drop the tank) and noticed they broke something off the top of the tank that has a small tube running to it, and jammed a sheet metal screw in both ends on the tubing...

sooo now the fun part of dropping the tank to figure out what the F they did...

 

[AtomicHoe094]

who did that>
that metal ring your talking about on the top of the gas tank is 8bucks by the dealer.. bought one : )

 

[ravingmadman]

If your rig is lifted, be really ginger with the pipe at the front of the tank. It is really cheaply made, and I doubt there's a replacement. Stab it gently with a screwdriver and it comes apart. You'll have to lower your tank half way, and remove all the pipes. The fuel lines only have about 6" of non-pressed metal pipe. Why? Because GM hates you.

 

[AtomicHoe094]

dont F up any of those steel fuel lines! costed me 350bucks for the 2 on top of the gastank. Ouch! but o well, now i know alll my lines under my truck are brand new and not rusty

 

[96ProCompTahoe]

F whoever worked on this tank before. turning out to be a weekend long project...

 

[992door]

what happened

 

[AtomicHoe094]

+1

 

[96ProCompTahoe]

just spent three hours and finally the second strap bolt is out of the damned junk factory nut thing....

i do have to ask, is there any other bolts or brackets holding the tank in other than the straps? got the straps off at the tank isn't moving at all.

its rigged up for the night, have to go find some replacement strap bolts and spome hose clamps. it would be great if the new clamps on the filler hose fixed it...

 

[AtomicHoe094]

nope, just 2 straps.. may have to wiggle her out a bit tho.

 

[96ProCompTahoe]

welp, wasn't the filler hose, but its back together for another week atleast before i have another day to work on it. (have to have it drivable monday and noone around here seems to have anything in stock...)

 

[ravingmadman]

I just pm'd you my cell #. Call me if you get stuck?

 

[96ProCompTahoe]

thanks for the number, so far its coming along, unless you can talk the flare nuts off im stuck in a bad way at the moment... haha

drove it to work and back yesterday (yeah yeah i know)

pulled it back apart tonight, (had to break off the brand new temporary stainless tank strap bolt... it somehow cross threaded itself on the drive to work and back....figures) tanks sitting on the jack at the moment. the 2 doors have the same pump carrier setup the suburbans do to where instead of the quick release lines going to the fuel pump carrier it has regular flare metal fittings which are of course frozen on there. they are loose on the threaded connectors but the flare nut on the pump side won't rotate or slide back onto the metal line to be able to undo them. (it just twists the entire line.)

at this point its soaking under about half a can of WD-40, and if that doesn't work, i either get to cut the rubber lines and order new ones from the filter back to save the pump and carrier, or snap off the pump lines and save the hard lines on the frame rail and order a new $250 pump and carrier. doesn't look like the pump has ever been out of the tank in its 175K lifetime, so it may be time to drop in a new Delphi anyway.

if it comes down to it its getting:
-new tank $100
-new pump and carrier Approx.$250 (if i can find it sooner than "7-10" days since its not the quick connect plastic crap one and i need it driveable friday.)
-both of the tank breathers $15 a pop (ones been snapped off for a long time, and they plugged it with a sheet metal screw..... idiots)
-all new hoses $ shouldn't be to bad


i had a good 9-12 worth of drop on the rubber lines which was great since the dual exhaust is right in the way, as is the trailer hitch. the tank is really wedged in there, had to pry it out very carefully with a 2x4 and a 36" metal pry bar.

I'll throw in that o-Riley's stocks the replacement tank bolts and the factory nut/bracket piece in a set for $11 (which was a great plus). they also have the locking rings and seals for $8 a set. the tank breathers or whatever they are technically called are $15 a piece and can be had same or next day depending on when you order them.

 

[96ProCompTahoe]

tanks on the ground finally. pickin up the new hoses in the AM, then the new pump carrier, hoses, and tank breathers go on and back up it goes. hopefully that fixes it. if not its off to the dealer to order the new rear hard lines.



but wouldn't you know the IROC blew the radiator on the way home from work today. what a great week!