Front shocks

[Bigtrite]

I’m getting a fast clunking noise in what sounds like the front left. Over bumps and during acceleration up hills. I jacked it up and checked and found some play in the pitman arm. I’m going to replace that but I’m not convinced that’s my clunking. My guess is the front shock. I can’t get it to move or make noise by messing with it. I have the z55 air ride suspension. The previous owner “deleted” it and it appears to have a regular shock. My question is even if the air ride is deleted do I need a special shock or can I use a factory shock from a non air ride suspension yukon.

 

[wjburken]

I’m getting a fast clunking noise in what sounds like the front left. Over bumps and during acceleration up hills. I jacked it up and checked and found some play in the pitman arm. I’m going to replace that but I’m not convinced that’s my clunking. My guess is the front shock. I can’t get it to move or make noise by messing with it. I have the z55 air ride suspension. The previous owner “deleted” it and it appears to have a regular shock. My question is even if the air ride is deleted do I need a special shock or can I use a factory shock from a non air ride suspension yukon.

You have Z55, which is AutoRide, or AirRide.

AutoRide where the dampening of the shocks are adjusted to give the best ride for the road conditions. AutoRide has wire harnesses that connect to each of the shocks to control the dampening of the shocks.

AirRide might be confused with AutoLevel.

AutoLevel is where the rear shocks have air bags and with the help of a compressor, will raise or lower the rear wind to level the vehicle based on the readings of height sensors at all four corners of the vehicle. These sensors are separate from the shocks.

I am not as familiar with your generation of vehicle so I will let others make suggestions on which shocks they would go with based on your desire to retain/restore the AutoRide or feature or if you want to bypass it, which typically requires special resistor packs or shocks that have the reaistors built in.

 

[Bigtrite]

You have Z55, which is AutoRide, or AirRide.

AutoRide where the dampening of the shocks are adjusted to give the best ride for the road conditions. AutoRide has wire harnesses that connect to each of the shocks to control the dampening of the shocks.

AirRide might be confused with AutoLevel.

AutoLevel is where the rear shocks have air bags and with the help of a compressor, will raise or lower the rear wind to level the vehicle based on the readings of height sensors at all four corners of the vehicle. These sensors are separate from the shocks.

I am not as familiar with your generation of vehicle so I will let others make suggestions on which shocks they would go with based on your desire to retain/restore the AutoRide or feature or if you want to bypass it, which typically requires special resistor packs or shocks that have the reaistors built in.

My rear socks have air bags and I have an air compressor but it’s all been bypassed. I don’t see any sensors on the front shocks but that doesn’t mean the previous owner didn’t unplug them and switch out the shocks. I don’t want to convert back. I’d rather have regular shocks than spend tons of money on OEM shocks for the z55 system

 

[wjburken]

My rear socks have air bags and I have an air compressor but it’s all been bypassed. I don’t see any sensors on the front shocks but that doesn’t mean the previous owner didn’t unplug them and switch out the shocks. I don’t want to convert back. I’d rather have regular shocks than spend tons of money on OEM shocks for the z55 system

Your front shocks, if they were OEM, would have a wire harness connection at the top of the shock. If that is not there, and you have no error codes for your suspension, then the previous owner must have installed a spoofing resistor. If that is the case, then I think you can go with pretty much whatever shock you want to go with.

 

[Bigtrite]

Your front shocks, if they were OEM, would have a wire harness connection at the top of the shock. If that is not there, and you have no error codes for your suspension, then the previous owner must have installed a spoofing resistor. If that is the case, then I think you can go with pretty much whatever shock you want to go with.

I don’t have any codes, I didn’t look too close at the shock yet but from a quick glance I didn’t see any connector at the top of the shock. I did see that right now it has DESpecteum front shocks. I’m hoping replacing the shocks fixes the fast clunking noise. It’s very annoying. I happens when I turn left, hit bumps or hard accelerate

 

[wjburken]

Have you checked your sway bar links? They can get pretty clunky when they break. Might be worth taking a peak at your drivers side link first.

 

[Bigtrite]

Have you checked your sway bar links? They can get pretty clunky when they break. Might be worth taking a peak at your drivers side link first.

I’ll have to check those tomorrow. I just got it about 2 weeks ago and it just passed PA inspection but I’m starting to think the shop pulled a lick and stick and didn’t actually look at anything.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Check your front differential mounts (2) and their bushings. This is a common issue that produces a clunk.

 

[Bigtrite]

Check your front differential mounts (2) and their bushings. This is a common issue that produces a clunk.

I checked my front end parts. When I jack it up and move the wheels side to side I have a bunch of play where my inner tie rod meets the center link on both sides and where the center link attaches to the pitman arm and idler arm. The whole thing moves.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I checked my front end parts. When I jack it up and move the wheels side to side I have a bunch of play where my inner tie rod meets the center link on both sides and where the center link attaches to the pitman arm and idler arm. The whole thing moves.

That certainly should be looked into and corrected as necessary.

To inspect the front differential mounts, you'll need to get all 4 wheels off the ground and with the motor running, put the transmission in drive and then reverse, with an observer watchin the front differential from underneath. If the mounts are bad, the observer will see the front differential move, as well as hear the clunk.