Front end about to get some attention!

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

drewtx154

Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2022
Posts
48
Reaction score
81
Location
S.A. Texas
Good afternoon all! My 2002 Tahoe LT 2WD is preparing to receive new hardware via the "Parts God" (a.k.a. me in this situation) in the front suspension and steering categories. Since I bought the SUV back in September 2022 it's has a slight whine coming from the front to which I'm pretty certain it is either the leaking steering gear box or leaking high pressure hose goin into the box that's responsible for the annoying whine. In both cases they are being replaced. When making the full turn in either direction I can feel a shimmy or maybe more like the tire is goin to collapse towards the inside of the vehicle, there are no pops or noise but I can feel it very weak... so while I'm doin the steering box and hose I will also be installing new upper control arms, inner and outer tie rods, new LCA ball joints and bushings, pitman arm, idler arm, idler arm bracket, sway bar links, sway bar bushings, bump stops. I think that's about everything I got so far, so I was debating as to whether or not I should replace my shocks and the shock bushings in the LCA? I've been slowly but surely ordering the necessary parts and they are of various brands. I mainly bought on budget and almost all parts so far are from Amazon. I tried to find any used parts that are just unused returned parts at a discount. If I had the necessary funds I would've just went with ACDelco Gold/professional but I figure as long as I do everything correct and don't drive like a maniac then all should be good ( I hope and pray lol) I'm treating this truck almost as if everything is original/needs to be replaced. Even if it doesn't seem like it does. I have mentioned in previous posts/comments that I believe my truck has close to 750,000 miles on it (frame, body, small components). Looking up my VIN post-purchase (I really should've done that prior to purchase) I found yearly registration transaction notes stating that odometer may have been rolled back at around 390,000 miles and then the next service record was an oil change I believe with odometer reading of 100,000 or something like that. As of now there is 297,000 miles on it. It runs really well and I believe the engine is original but I do know either transmission was replaced or rebuilt several years ago. I thought I'd share that info again for extra context. Anything else I need to remember while doin this repairs? Any special advice or experiences anyone would like to share? Thanks in advance for any advice or shared knowledge.... Oh and yes after jobs completed the next stop will be to get an alignment....which also makes me ask about a proper alignment??? I've read online about make sure to get a proper alignment as to say some places just give u a quick "good enough" alignment. Any advice or info on this would be awesome as well. Have a great rest of the weekend to all!!!

P.S. I know this is a book I just typed and a lot of info but thank you again for any of y'all that take the time to read and comment. It truly shows the generosity and character y'all have and the general love for these GMT800s
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230303_175414892_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20230303_175414892_HDR.jpg
    465.6 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_20230303_175421021.jpg
    IMG_20230303_175421021.jpg
    400.5 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_20230303_175515083_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20230303_175515083_HDR.jpg
    337.1 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_20230303_175506154_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20230303_175506154_HDR.jpg
    296.6 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_20230303_175521446_HDR.jpg
    IMG_20230303_175521446_HDR.jpg
    441.8 KB · Views: 19

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
19,067
Reaction score
31,162
Location
Willamette Valley
Yes, do shocks all the way around and when you get the alignment, get a reputable shop to do it, share with them what you did, get a before and after printout and post that here.

I would also, since I like to spend other people's money, replace the steering shaft and make sure you bleed the power steering system correctly. Have the front off the ground, fill, turn back and forth slowly with engine off, add fluid as needed, then start engine and repeat the very slow turn left and right while getting air out and when you feel the air is out of the system, drop to ground and do the slow turn back and forth till satisfied and full. Make sure to check frame at steering gear mount for cracks. Make sure your power steering pump is up to the job and no leaks at the pump. Pics of the entire job would be appreciated.
 

OR VietVet

Multnomah Falls
Supporting Member
Military
Joined
Oct 8, 2014
Posts
19,067
Reaction score
31,162
Location
Willamette Valley
Hell, do like I did, do the shafts when you do it all and even if hubs check out ok, if they are old, do them too. OPM
 

Fless

Staff member
Super Moderator
Joined
Apr 2, 2017
Posts
10,246
Reaction score
20,306
Location
Elev 5,280
I believe the steering pumps are different if you have hydroboost brake assist vs. vacuum assist.

Shocks can be dependent on what suspension you have, so if it's the Premium Smooth Ride (RPOs ZW7 & G65), the rear shocks are OE manual self-adjusting Nivomats and shouldn't be replaced (only) with standard shocks. If standard shocks are used, firmer springs are required.
 

rockola1971

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2016
Posts
2,376
Reaction score
2,972
Location
Indiana (formerly IL)
Hell, do like I did, do the shafts when you do it all and even if hubs check out ok, if they are old, do them too. OPM
I hope you mean steering shaft. :p Its a 2wd so no CV shafts. He could be one of those guys that spends 2 nights out there with a flashlight trying to figure out why his Tahoe is missing the brand new CV shafts that he just bought. Hahahaha
 
OP
OP
drewtx154

drewtx154

Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2022
Posts
48
Reaction score
81
Location
S.A. Texas
How are the front hubs doing? Lots of front end work. Glad you’re getting it done, but definitely don’t forget to check this hubs out.
Yes I was thinking of the hubs as well since I'll have all that off... I def want to and as I said idk if mostly a lot of the components of these vehicle systems are original or not so in my mind I'm thinking "might as well!" It just adds up to more money and downtime for my truck lol. Definitely a string possibly...thank you for your input. Really appreciated
 
OP
OP
drewtx154

drewtx154

Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2022
Posts
48
Reaction score
81
Location
S.A. Texas
Yes, do shocks all the way around and when you get the alignment, get a reputable shop to do it, share with them what you did, get a before and after printout and post that here.

I would also, since I like to spend other people's money, replace the steering shaft and make sure you bleed the power steering system correctly. Have the front off the ground, fill, turn back and forth slowly with engine off, add fluid as needed, then start engine and repeat the very slow turn left and right while getting air out and when you feel the air is out of the system, drop to ground and do the slow turn back and forth till satisfied and full. Make sure to check frame at steering gear mount for cracks. Make sure your power steering pump is up to the job and no leaks at the pump. Pics of the entire job would be appreciated.
Yes sir. I will remember to take pics before , during, and after. Along with print out of before and after from the alignment shop. I appreciate your advice and for the steering system bleeding reminder. While thinking and planning on all the parts needed, shopping around finding the best deal on decent quality parts and from which "angle" I'm gonna attack this job I completely forgot about vital procedures like this. When u say steering shaft I'm assuming u mean the intermediate steering shaft?? I was thinking about this as well as the plastic bushing or collar that also I read should be replaced along with shaft. So I may just end up adding that as well. I had planned to at first but then kinda opted to hold off on that til another time. But who knows at this point....
 
OP
OP
drewtx154

drewtx154

Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2022
Posts
48
Reaction score
81
Location
S.A. Texas
Yes, do shocks all the way around and when you get the alignment, get a reputable shop to do it, share with them what you did, get a before and after printout and post that here.

I would also, since I like to spend other people's money, replace the steering shaft and make sure you bleed the power steering system correctly. Have the front off the ground, fill, turn back and forth slowly with engine off, add fluid as needed, then start engine and repeat the very slow turn left and right while getting air out and when you feel the air is out of the system, drop to ground and do the slow turn back and forth till satisfied and full. Make sure to check frame at steering gear mount for cracks. Make sure your power steering pump is up to the job and no leaks at the pump. Pics of the entire job would be appreciated.
Yes sir. I will remember to take pics before , during, and after. Along with print out of before and after from the alignment shop. I appreciate your advice and for the steering system bleeding reminder. While thinking and planning on all the parts needed, shopping around finding the best deal on decent quality partsand from which "angle" I'm gonna attack this job I completely forgot about vital procedures like this. When u say steering shaft I'm assuming u mean the intermediate steering shaft?? I was thinking about this as well as the plastic bushing or collar that also I read should be replaced along with shaft. So I may just end up adding that as well. I had planned to at first but then kinda opted to hold off on that til another time. But who knows at this point....
I believe the steering pumps are different if you have hydroboost brake assist vs. vacuum assist.

Shocks can be dependent on what suspension you have, so if it's the Premium Smooth Ride (RPOs ZW7 & G65), the rear shocks are OE manual self-adjusting Nivomats and shouldn't be replaced (only) with standard shocks. If standard shocks are used, firmer springs are required.
Ok ok.... Good to know what RPO to look out for because honestly I just didn't know which suspension package I had. The list of RPO codes I have to reference is daunting. Then to try and piece each code to the list of descriptions is something I hadn't wanted to try as of yet. But now that you mentioned G65 Im pretty sure thats the code on my truck. I remember OR VeitVet telling someone (shoot it may have been me) about taking a pic of my RPO code and adding to my signature, which I will do but I will also post it here rn....

HDR2.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
OP
OP
drewtx154

drewtx154

Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2022
Posts
48
Reaction score
81
Location
S.A. Texas
I hope you mean steering shaft. :p Its a 2wd so no CV shafts. He could be one of those guys that spends 2 nights out there with a flashlight trying to figure out why his Tahoe is missing the brand new CV shafts that he just bought. Hahahaha
....it was only one night (cuz I did look while the sun was out) and I didn't use a flashlight.... I own a couple of work lights.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
128,781
Posts
1,805,301
Members
91,760
Latest member
MyCleftNut

Latest posts

Top