Front brakes both sides heating up and dragging

[MM60]

Replaced both front rubber brake lines, calipers (slide pins lubed), pads, rotors, master cylinder, flushed all the fluid (which was dark) and bled brakes in the correct order. Front brakes heated up and began dragging once again on both sides. I checked my booster and it is working properly. The old master cylinders piston area was half eaten away. The black plunger gasket seal was half gone and dirty. I checked the booster and it's working properly. The dragging occurs after driving for about 20 minutes. In the mornings, it starts and drives fine until the brakes warm up. Then the drag occurs. This is driving me nuts, not to mention my wallet!

 

[Scottydoggs]

might be time for new calipers up front. or a diy rebuild. not all that hard to do really. compressed air does help with the job to blow the pistons out.

 

[89Suburban]

I’m wondering if the debris from the master cylinder seals clogged up the ABS module.

 

[MM60]

might be time for new calipers up front. or a diy rebuild. not all that hard to do really. compressed air does help with the job to blow the pistons out.

I replaced both calipers up front with new ones.

 

[MM60]

I’m wondering if the debris from the master cylinder seals clogged up the ABS The mechanics shop replaced the abs pump and module. Lol, they also said they bled the brakes. I put new master cylinder on yesterday and then bled the brakes starting with passenger side rear, then drivers side rear, then passenger side front and driver's side last. The fluid that came out of the rear was very dark and a bit lumpy. I kept pumping the brakes until new fluid appeared. That shop definitely didn't bleed the brakes after installing the new pump and module. The power booster seems to work okay. I hold the pedal down, start the truck and the pedal goes down about 3 inches which is good. Fluid is definitely being pushed into the master cylinder and entering the lines as the vehicle stops like it should. For some reason, the calipers are not releasing from the rotors. The rubber brake lines are new.

 

[89Suburban]

There is supposed to be some kind of special ABS bleed with a scan tool from, what I gather here. Dark and lumpy is not good fo sho.

 

[BoreMinken]

Have you found a fix for you’re problem? mine started to do the same ting with all the four wheels after swapping pads and rotors.
about 20min into a drive my brakes Are grabbing and getting hot, but some times it can be only one wheel, and another day it can be three wheels, and then another wheel the next day, today it eas all four.

I have checed the same thing as you, everthing seems good.

I have started to get ‘’service brake system’’ with a red brake light symbol in the dashboard when i turn in the ignition, but it disapear when i turn the engine on.
I’m lost here.

 

[rockola1971]

Replaced both front rubber brake lines, calipers (slide pins lubed), pads, rotors, master cylinder, flushed all the fluid (which was dark) and bled brakes in the correct order. Front brakes heated up and began dragging once again on both sides. I checked my booster and it is working properly. The old master cylinders piston area was half eaten away. The black plunger gasket seal was half gone and dirty. I checked the booster and it's working properly. The dragging occurs after driving for about 20 minutes. In the mornings, it starts and drives fine until the brakes warm up. Then the drag occurs. This is driving me nuts, not to mention my wallet!

How did you bleed the brakes? Old school pump, hold, crack bleeder loose, close bleeder and then repeat all the way around OR did you use a bi directional scanner like a Tech II and use the auto bleed feature?

 

[tom3]

One thing you can try is get the brakes hot and dragging, open a bleeder and see if you get a spurt of fluid. That would point to a restriction in the lines rather than a mechanical binding. See this in motorcycles pretty often.

 

[rockola1971]

One thing you can try is get the brakes hot and dragging, open a bleeder and see if you get a spurt of fluid. That would point to a restriction in the lines rather than a mechanical binding. See this in motorcycles pretty often.

The internal diameter of brake hoses and lines would rarely ever see anything large enough to restrict them. The stereotypical brake drag causes are: Collapsed brake hose, bad master cylinder, stuck or improperly assembled caliper or air in the system(either caused by improper bleed or there is still a leak in the system).