Frickin a/c still/Truck Will Not Start/Hatch Will Not Open....

[woodsie]

Okay I have done all the resets of the HVAC unit as shown on videos here. Still ac works then stops and blows hot. After a while it might blow cold again. Blower never stops. In fact you don't realize it until you start sweating. Unit is computer unit with adjustable temp for driver and/or passenger. What now?

Also my hatch will not open. Window works but not hatch. Locked in closed position. Can hear it engage with door locks but will not open.Have the panel off looks like all wiring in place. Started and you would have to hit the unlock on door or remote about 20+ times and it would open.

#3 At times truck will not start. No connection by key. No clicking, motor dragging (brand new battery) nothing. Have to turn key to start many times and the finally starter kicks in. Sometimes if you hold key in start position it may kick in but it takes 5 or more minutes to kick in. Sometimes, not often. I love my truck but I'm ready to set it on fire! Lol. 2005 Tahoe.

 

[S33k3r]

One sounds like you have a blend door actuator dying. If I remember correctly, there are three blend doors; two are easy to access, one requires dash removal...

Two: There are two problems that come to mind to cause the issue you are facing with your hatch. One, the actuator is bad. 2 You aren't getting proper current to your actuator. You might want to test the power that is getting to it to rule lack of power out.

The no start could be your passlock going out. Do you get any lights on the dash? Alternately, your ignition where the key plugs in may be worn.

 

[nonickatall]

Sound to me like mass connection problems...

 

[MassHoe04]

On your #3: No-crank/No-start...

I was in a similar situation with occasional and random no-crank/no-starts.
I was freaking out! I was fearing that my ignition or Passlock security was on the way out.

I was looking at firing the parts cannon and searching up ignition swtiches, Passlock key cylinders, etc.

The truck would have it's issue, but after slamming the driver's door a few times, waiting and turning the key a few times... It had managed to start.

Until it didn't.

While waiting for AAA flatbed to get me home, I got a ride home and grabbed my Tech 2 scanner.
Be fore the tow truck even arrived, I was able to verify the Park/Neutral switch was sending correct signals to the computer and that the ignition switch was also showing correct changes in position as I turned the key from off to start.
I figured out before the tow arrived, that my issue was not likely the ignition, Passlock or the Park/Neutral sensor.

Most likely to be my starter.

That was 100% it! My starter crapped-out. Replaced with a remanufactured starter from O'Reilly's. Have never had any issue since then (except for a stripped-out batter clamp that needed replacing). But once those issues were dealt with, I have been very reliable in starting my truck.

Maybe you just have a failing starter too...

 

[B-train]

For the electrical gremlins, I'd agree with the hatch latch, replaced a couple myself. Buy GM! Dorman doesn't cut it, you'll get to do it twice.......have the t-shirt. LOL

The starter issue could be due to poor conductivity of the power system, or a failing starter. I had an issue with my Case skidsteer that drove me nuts and would have to do the multiple key attempts to get it to turn over. Pulled the starter and found burned areas on the disk. Luckily this one is repairable, cleaned off corrosion and VIOLA! back good again.

I also had a similar issue on an old grass hopper diesel mower and found that it was dirty power and ground connections. Electricity can throw you for a loop, so check the basics first. Do you live in a salt state by chance because that would make it more probable.