Flush your brake fluid!!

[kbuskill]

I just used my home made vacuum bleeder attached to my vacuum pump I use for A/C work and start at the right rear as @iamdub described. Once the fluid is clean the others go much faster.

I didn't mess with turning keys on and turning keys off or putting my left foot in and taking my left foot out... and there was most certainly no shaking it all about.

Once I was done I pumped the pedal a few times and all was well.

 

[SnowDrifter]

I typically do my brake fluid annually w/ dot4.

Excessive? Perhaps. But dot4 is hygroscopic more so than dot3. Moisture in the brake system is, to be frank, the cause of a lot of system related failures.

I do a lot of high speed driving up and down mountain passes. Been a couple times when I'm doing 100-105 and traffic's still passing me. When I need to stop, I need to ******' stop. It's cheap peace of mind.

I use a vacuum bleeder with a clear hose to purge fluid from the lines. Then 2 maybe 3 pumps of the pedal per corner to make sure there's no air, as the vacuum system inevitably sucks air past the threads on the bleeder. Reservoir takes a quart on its own, and I generally flush another quart through the lines.

 

[Rocket Man]

I typically do my brake fluid annually w/ dot4.

Excessive? Perhaps. But dot4 is hygroscopic more so than dot3. Moisture in the brake system is, to be frank, the cause of a lot of system related failures.

I do a lot of high speed driving up and down mountain passes. Been a couple times when I'm doing 100-105 and traffic's still passing me. When I need to stop, I need to ******' stop. It's cheap peace of mind.

I use a vacuum bleeder with a clear hose to purge fluid from the lines. Then 2 maybe 3 pumps of the pedal per corner to make sure there's no air, as the vacuum system inevitably sucks air past the threads on the bleeder. Reservoir takes a quart on its own, and I generally flush another quart through the lines.

Sounds like you need Wilwoods and their high temp racing fluid.

 

[SnowDrifter]

Those would be cute. But **** that price tag. Truck stops fine *shrug*

 

[Rocket Man]

Those would be cute. But **** that price tag. Truck stops fine *shrug*

Yeah well I lost almost all braking coming down a steep back road in the Cascade Mountains due to my pads almost melting and decided it was worth the price the way I drive. The Wilwoods haven’t let me down. I figure if they save me from crashing one time I’m ahead.

 

[Bart Hinder]

Great stuff, guys. I know there's a difference between flushing (replacing) the brake fluid vs. bleeding any air out of the brake lines. What I'm trying to understand is what and when to be concerned about the ABS solenoid valves.

Looks like my Motive power bleeder will arrive tomorrow.

 

[Bart Hinder]

It's not like you have to stick exactly to "Up, Up, Down, Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, B, A, Start".

That's the exact sequence for clearing your Netflix history.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

It's not like you have to stick exactly to "Up, Up, Down, Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, B, A, B, A, Select, Start".

Smh..... Fyp.

 

[Rocket Man]

That's the exact sequence for clearing your Pornhub history.

Fixed

 

[iamdub]

Smh..... Fyp.

Know how I know you're old?

 

[HiHoeSilver]

Know how I know you're old?

My profile page?

 

[iamdub]

My profile page?

Yeah- I'm stalking your myspace.

 

[thompsoj22]

I gotta ask, with all these successful bleeds with no bleeder screw's shearing/stripping am i not twisting hard enough? I tried awhile back to do a full bleed on the 08 xl1500 at 126k but all but one bleeder screw did not give me a hint that they wanted to loosen. Even the one that i did get to break loose was only slightly and than appeared to go tight again as opposed to getting looser, it did not allow full fluid flow. Being old i have learned when to "tap out" as i didnt want to shear a bleeder. Did your bleeder screws go from tight to loose without apprehension? Once you broke them loose could you turn them with your fingers? There is no external corrosion apparent on the bleeders, No rust, Were they simply overtorqued? Car fax shows brake flush every couple years at the same dealer but my experience say's the bleeders have never been loosened? Possible "stealership" norm? just changing resevoir fluid?

 

[iamdub]

I gotta ask, with all these successful bleeds with no bleeder screw's shearing/stripping am i not twisting hard enough? I tried awhile back to do a full bleed on the 08 xl1500 at 126k but all but one bleeder screw did not give me a hint that they wanted to loosen. Even the one that i did get to break loose was only slightly and than appeared to go tight again as opposed to getting looser, it did not allow full fluid flow. Being old i have learned when to "tap out" as i didnt want to shear a bleeder. Did your bleeder screws go from tight to loose without apprehension? Once you broke them loose could you turn them with your fingers? There is no external corrosion apparent on the bleeders, No rust, Were they simply overtorqued? Car fax shows brake flush every couple years at the same dealer but my experience say's the bleeders have never been loosened? Possible "stealership" norm? just changing resevoir fluid?

Since no rust, my guess is that the tech(s) that serviced it last over-torqued them when tightening and you were the next one to come behind them and reap the consequences.

When I did mine, I cracked them loose and could turn them with my fingers, as they should. If anyone over-torqued them when retightening, it's me. I'll find out next time I bleed them.

 

[992dr]

Has anyone used speed bleeders?
I've been using them for years and have had no issues up in MA or in NC. Makes flushing easy and fairly quick. Never mind regular brake maintenance.

 

[Rocket Man]

I gotta ask, with all these successful bleeds with no bleeder screw's shearing/stripping am i not twisting hard enough? I tried awhile back to do a full bleed on the 08 xl1500 at 126k but all but one bleeder screw did not give me a hint that they wanted to loosen. Even the one that i did get to break loose was only slightly and than appeared to go tight again as opposed to getting looser, it did not allow full fluid flow. Being old i have learned when to "tap out" as i didnt want to shear a bleeder. Did your bleeder screws go from tight to loose without apprehension? Once you broke them loose could you turn them with your fingers? There is no external corrosion apparent on the bleeders, No rust, Were they simply overtorqued? Car fax shows brake flush every couple years at the same dealer but my experience say's the bleeders have never been loosened? Possible "stealership" norm? just changing resevoir fluid?

The dealer probably over tightened them. You can buy new bleeders at any auto parts store. Needle nose vise grips and pb blaster should get the old ones out.

 

[thompsoj22]

The dealer probably over tightened them. You can buy new bleeders at any auto parts store. Needle nose vise grips and pb blaster should get the old ones out.

Thanks, i want to do an effective flush so im going to get the pb on them daily for a week and than next weekend check with oreilley to the availability of calipers/lines in the event they shear half open? Also appreciate the new info in regard to bleeding the abs manifold/pump with key on during pedal stroke cycles!