If I were you, I would run 4awg from the battery + straight to the alt, bypassing the red box. The red box contains a fusible link and is there for safety. Also run your amp wire (with the appropriate fuse) straight to the battery +. This should help with your dimming issues.
Extra battery or Replace Battery (need help)
- Thread starter ROBERTOcritser
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If I were you, I would run 4awg from the battery + straight to the alt, bypassing the red box. The red box contains a fusible link and is there for safety. Also run your amp wire (with the appropriate fuse) straight to the battery +. This should help with your dimming issues.
Eagle
Thansk for all the help -STAFF!
good point. a fusible link IS resistance.
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ROBERTOcritser
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and that cant hurt anything? isnt the fusible link there in case something screws up and it keeps from ruining stuff? How about this, what is the fusible link for?
You're right, good point. I have been using the set up I recommended to you for over a year and haven't had any problems. Well then, upgrade the wire to at least 4awg using the fusible link or add a fuse in the 4awg wire from the battery + to alt. All you are trying to do is, provide the least resistance for current flow.
I also upgraded my main battery to a Deka Intimadator. I needed a new battery anyway and the Deka had the same specs as a Optima yellow top, but alot cheaper.
I also upgraded my main battery to a Deka Intimadator. I needed a new battery anyway and the Deka had the same specs as a Optima yellow top, but alot cheaper.
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ROBERTOcritser
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I actually have a Deka battery right now.Its not an intimidator but its just black and has a big number 75 on the side and its say MAINTENANCE FREE and LONG LIFE like 5 times on it hahaha. couldnt really see anything else. and how did that work out? How much did you pay and did it really help enough worth getting one?
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The Intimidator is an AGM battery. You will have to google it for some info as I have forgot the main advantages of it. Since my battery was on its way out, I decided to get this battery because a friend of mine who is heavy into car audio suggested it. I did alot of research on different kinds of batteries before settling on this one. One thing I do remember is that it can ran down completely and charged back up without having any problems. It did help to lessen some of the dimming. But if your battery is fairly new, I would not change it.
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ROBERTOcritser
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Ok. We have all of this info and what I have done is listed up there.... what should I do next? I plan on putting another amp in there so should I get the 0awg wiring kit or wait til the amp is actually in there or what?
Eagle
Thansk for all the help -STAFF!
Fuible link is a Fuse.
it is there incase someone removes a positive cable and drops it while the truck is running... or incase someone hooks up jumpers bass ackwards. you've already defeated the fusible link by adding a wire from the alt to the battery.
I never liked fusible links because they are mostly irreplaceable in the field, and yet another failpoint. I'd rather use a straight wire, or at WORST a 150 -200 amp mini ANL fuse.
With less resistance and checkable by the naked eye, mini-ANLs are relatively easy to change (crescent wrench) and relatively inexpensive. Very small oem-look holders are often used in motorcycles.
it is there incase someone removes a positive cable and drops it while the truck is running... or incase someone hooks up jumpers bass ackwards. you've already defeated the fusible link by adding a wire from the alt to the battery.
I never liked fusible links because they are mostly irreplaceable in the field, and yet another failpoint. I'd rather use a straight wire, or at WORST a 150 -200 amp mini ANL fuse.
With less resistance and checkable by the naked eye, mini-ANLs are relatively easy to change (crescent wrench) and relatively inexpensive. Very small oem-look holders are often used in motorcycles.
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ROBERTOcritser
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so since those 2 wires are running from the alt to red box (battery) should I just replace both of them with 1 piece of 4awg? Id rather just have one wire there instead of 2.... just looks better and its not hard to do
Harry Seaward
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I agree with most of what you said, except for this one. My Ram Turbodiesel (with the OEM electrical system) uses 2 batteries wired in parallel. The toaster element-like grid heaters pull 180 amps at pre-start to heat the imcoming air wihen you crank. That's over 2000 watts, and more than a single battery can provide. I replaced both OEM batteries after 2 years with Red Tops. That was 5 years ago, and they're still running fine. Granted, if one battery takes a dump, yes, it will pull the other down. But if you start with 2 fresh batteries, you'll get many years of service out of them before you have to worry about what you describe above.
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Eagle
Thansk for all the help -STAFF!
Yep you can get away with it for a few years... especially when it is driven daily and not played key off a lot. With matched (same month/year, same voltage) type 26 Interstate Megatron Plus right next to each other I got 3 years. 3 years though is a big difference to my usual 6-8 years on a wet battery.
I'd still rather have them isolated with the key off, because they will float each other and try to equalize... which will drain them. Storage time is thus reduced.
You bring up an interesting point though. Perhaps this is one case where two IDENTICAL AGM might outperform a pair of wets. I certainly would never suggest non identical batts be connected in parallel sans any isolation.
I'd still rather have them isolated with the key off, because they will float each other and try to equalize... which will drain them. Storage time is thus reduced.
You bring up an interesting point though. Perhaps this is one case where two IDENTICAL AGM might outperform a pair of wets. I certainly would never suggest non identical batts be connected in parallel sans any isolation.
you dont know how many times my dad has tried explaining gain and effeciency and so on...its hard to comprehend but i kind of get it now.
i need the big 3 asap and to get that fusable link out between the alternator and battery. im also going to go with a 220 amp iraqqi alt i think and a pretty nice battery.
im running 1 alk(or however you spell it) all the way to the back with 00 gauge grounds. im running the hcca ppi 1500.1 to the 4 15s and a 600.6 to the seperates.
do you think these few mods im thinking of doing will help with the voltage drop on the dash?
---------- Post added at 11:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:36 AM ----------
and to the op my dads shop just built a 04 escalade with 2 12 w7s the 1000.1 amp and the 300.2 on a all stock electrical system. once the battery was completley charged the meter on the dash barely moved and the lights never dimmed(i dk if this is because it was hids) but i can see if i can get some info for you on soem stuff they did.
i need the big 3 asap and to get that fusable link out between the alternator and battery. im also going to go with a 220 amp iraqqi alt i think and a pretty nice battery.
im running 1 alk(or however you spell it) all the way to the back with 00 gauge grounds. im running the hcca ppi 1500.1 to the 4 15s and a 600.6 to the seperates.
do you think these few mods im thinking of doing will help with the voltage drop on the dash?
---------- Post added at 11:38 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:36 AM ----------
and to the op my dads shop just built a 04 escalade with 2 12 w7s the 1000.1 amp and the 300.2 on a all stock electrical system. once the battery was completley charged the meter on the dash barely moved and the lights never dimmed(i dk if this is because it was hids) but i can see if i can get some info for you on soem stuff they did.
sam you could try this. I dont know what the iraqqi cost but this is what i have now. I ran ohio but it went out and i needed a replacement so i got this and its does great.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-48202/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PWM-48202/
