Exhaust manifold tick? Can’t figure out where the ticking is coming from

[iboughtatahoe23]

I have a 2014 Tahoe with 5.3 and I was told I have a broken off stud on the drivers side rear. I don’t feel any leaking or hear any noise from the broken stud area. I don’t hear any noise from that area or the top of the engine at all for a matter of fact. I used old small wooden stick from a chair to listen to the manifolds I heard normal sounds on the “broken” one and I barely heard a noise that was in snyc with the ticking noise on the passenger side manifold. So the tick is actually coming from the PASSENGER side.

I hopped under the left side of the vehicle near the passenger side manifold and I can hear the noise here. I’m not sure What it is exactly that’s making the noise. I cant pin it with the stethoscope either. If the driver side stud is broken it doesn’t make sense why the noise is coming from under on the passenger side. I’m hoping it’s not a rod or a lifter. Any ideas what it could be?

 

[swathdiver]

I have a 2014 Tahoe with 5.3 and I was told I have a broken off stud on the drivers side rear. I don’t feel any leaking or hear any noise from the broken stud area. I don’t hear any noise from that area or the top of the engine at all for a matter of fact. I used old small wooden stick from a chair to listen to the manifolds I heard normal sounds on the “broken” one and I barely heard a noise that was in snyc with the ticking noise on the passenger side manifold. So the tick is actually coming from the PASSENGER side.

I hopped under the left side of the vehicle near the passenger side manifold and I can hear the noise here. I’m not sure What it is exactly that’s making the noise. I cant pin it with the stethoscope either. If the driver side stud is broken it doesn’t make sense why the noise is coming from under on the passenger side. I’m hoping it’s not a rod or a lifter. Any ideas what it could be?

I've seen broken bolts not leak and leaks where all the bolts are intact. On our 3, we are systematically replacing all of the gaskets and bolts regardless of any issues or not as preventive maintenance.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

I've seen broken bolts not leak and leaks where all the bolts are intact. On our 3, we are systematically replacing all of the gaskets and bolts regardless of any issues or not as preventive maintenance.

So I should just replace both manifolds…

 

[swathdiver]

So I should just replace both manifolds…

They're not expensive, especially the driver's side. I bought two and on the car we worked on, did not replace the original. It was going to take too much time to remove it so we left it and after 3 weeks, no leaks. When I had the passenger side gasket blow with all bolts intact, the flange required extensive planing to make smooth again. 3 years later, no leaks.

If you decide to replace the driver's side, you really have to remove the intermediate steering shaft. The steering wheel has to be locked into position so that the alignment/steering is not messed up when doing this. I bought the Bosch, OTC J-42640 steering wheel anti-rotating pin to lock it into place off ebay.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

They're not expensive, especially the driver's side. I bought two and on the car we worked on, did not replace the original. It was going to take too much time to remove it so we left it and after 3 weeks, no leaks. When I had the passenger side gasket blow with all bolts intact, the flange required extensive planing to make smooth again. 3 years later, no leaks.

If you decide to replace the driver's side, you really have to remove the intermediate steering shaft. The steering wheel has to be locked into position so that the alignment/steering is not messed up when doing this. I bought the Bosch, OTC J-42640 steering wheel anti-rotating pin to lock it into place off ebay.

I will repair them when I can afford it. But i just wanna know that it’s not the lifters ! And if I can keep riding it until I can fix it.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

I think it’s a def a leak in the exhaust. I can smell it in the car when I first start it. But seems to go away as a drive (the smell) and in the passenger seat I can feel the floor vibrate a little more than usual around 2k rpm

 

[OR VietVet]

You said, "I hopped under the left side of the vehicle near the passenger side manifold".

For future reference, the "left side" is ALWAYS the driver's side and "right side" is always the passenger side. Unless it is a right hand drive vehicle.

 

[gooffeyguy]

They're not expensive, especially the driver's side. I bought two and on the car we worked on, did not replace the original. It was going to take too much time to remove it so we left it and after 3 weeks, no leaks. When I had the passenger side gasket blow with all bolts intact, the flange required extensive planing to make smooth again. 3 years later, no leaks.

If you decide to replace the driver's side, you really have to remove the intermediate steering shaft. The steering wheel has to be locked into position so that the alignment/steering is not messed up when doing this. I bought the Bosch, OTC J-42640 steering wheel anti-rotating pin to lock it into place off ebay.

Where does this lock pin go?

Also, would the automatic wheel lock that activates when the key is off not do the same thing?

 

[swathdiver]

Where does this lock pin go?

Also, would the automatic wheel lock that activates when the key is off not do the same thing?

There is a hole in the bottom of the steering wheel for it. GM deleted this in many models of cars years ago. I know the Escalades have it but my SLT Yukon XL does not, neither do my Sierras.

 

[j91z28d1]

that lock is interesting. not seen that.

trick a old guy showed me like 20 years ago to find exhaust leaks. I've worked at airports and around race cars so long I can't really pin point them anymore lol. if you have a mechanics stethoscope, take the end off the hose so you have a open hose end. run that end along all the seems and joints of the exhaust. even the slightest leak you'll hear the puff puff instantly.