Engine swap '04 Tahoe 5.3 to 6.0

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iamdub

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Ok thanks for clarifying. If it was going to run but just not pass smog, or have some strange code that is nothing to worry about driveability wise, I could live with that. Thankfully I have it registered in a county that does not require smog checks. Having a home there has it's side benefits.

I really was hoping I could just drop an 05-06 Escalade or Denali computer in there and call it done,,,,,, for the time being so it would be driveable without having to visit a programmer first. Reason being, right now I'm just trying to get it driveable but there are other modifications and changes I'm likely to do over the next 3-6 months, intake swap, headers, who knows what else? Once I have the final product in place and everything is settled as far as the build, then I will visit the dyno guy for final final. I'm trying to just go to him once.

I think there are sellers, like on eBay, that sell PCMs pre-programmed to your VIN so it'd be plug-and-play. This would be a more costly option, but still an option, if you can't find someone to program yours. Once someone has your vehicle licensed, they can tune it unlimited times from there on out. So, you could pay for a tuner once and have your existing one set up then return to them to tune it for mods later. Or, buy a second PnP PCM then have that one tuned later, at the full tune price. Basically, is it worth it to you to pay double to have yours running for now then tuned later or pay once and have your existing one tuned?
 

Mudsport96

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2006 for sure and maybe 05 computer uses a different signal for the drive by wire throttle and tac module, so if you go to that year computer you will also need to get a TAC module that matches the ecm. Your best bet is to find someone that can turn the fans on in your ecm and do a segment swap for a 6.0.

Or order a dongle from the guys at lsdroid and download lsdroid and do it yourself for the cost of the dongle. I think i paid 75 bucks for it. Then you can do all the tuning you like.
 

Tonyrodz

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I got this guy's number from someone on here. Give him a call and ask if he could help you out. Can't hurt.
Tom Bauer Performance
763-486-2869
Tell him what you want to do, hopefully he'll be able to help you out. Let us know how it goes.
 
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mattt

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2006 for sure and maybe 05 computer uses a different signal for the drive by wire throttle and tac module, so if you go to that year computer you will also need to get a TAC module that matches the ecm. Your best bet is to find someone that can turn the fans on in your ecm and do a segment swap for a 6.0.

Or order a dongle from the guys at lsdroid and download lsdroid and do it yourself for the cost of the dongle. I think i paid 75 bucks for it. Then you can do all the tuning you like.
Thanks, this has me interested, the do it yourself option from lsdroid. I had not heard of this before, so I'll look into it.
 
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mattt

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I think there are sellers, like on eBay, that sell PCMs pre-programmed to your VIN so it'd be plug-and-play. This would be a more costly option, but still an option, if you can't find someone to program yours. Once someone has your vehicle licensed, they can tune it unlimited times from there on out. So, you could pay for a tuner once and have your existing one set up then return to them to tune it for mods later. Or, buy a second PnP PCM then have that one tuned later, at the full tune price. Basically, is it worth it to you to pay double to have yours running for now then tuned later or pay once and have your existing one tuned?
Thanks for the info. I didn't know that's how it works, that once a VIN is licensed it can be repeatedly tuned for no additional. Perhaps it's time to have this conversation with the dyno guy that quoted me already for a full tune. Thanks
 
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mattt

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Picture for attention, nothing too exciting visually, just a typical engine compartment, but look at the cyl head casting # and that's where the excitement is. Fast fwd 3 months and it's all back together and in the Tahoe now.
I have everything put back together, no extra leftover parts or hardware that I can't remember where they go so that is good. Put a battery in and turn the key and it does turn over without starting, since the fuel pump relay is pulled and the coil packs disconnected(verifying oil pressure prior to starting it). But.....

Houston there might be a problem. The key fob works to lock and unlock the doors, the stereo works, the interior lights work, but the gauge cluster is only lighting up the Check Engine Light, nothing else. I have no odometer display, no gauge movement(no gauge motor sound audible when it goes key on). The only thing illuminated on the cluster is the Check Engine Light. This engine swap process from start to finish has taken me most of a year. Battery was out of the rig and computer disconnected since the teardown.

I seem to remember reading about a possible loss of memory on the factory anti-theft, but I can't find that info or thread that I previously read now. Is that what I am experiencing here? Thanks in advance for any pointers.engine.JPG
 
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mattt

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Thank you for the reply. From the research I've done, it's not clear that a VATS Passlock reset is necessary. In your opinion, is it necessary to relearn since the PCM and battery were removed for a year? I did find the relearn process you mentioned and it's how you said, about 30 minutes total. The only thing is the security light is not illuminated in my cluster at all. I've left the key on for 10 minutes, still no security light.

I'm now wondering if the cluster gave up the ghost over the last year with no activity. I'll pull it out today and bench test it by powering it up.

I've also test lighted all the blade fuses in both fuse boxes with Key On and they all have power on both sides, except for one, Crank. That fuse is dead on both sides of the fuse. Also various lights fuses were dead on both sides, but I figure that's because the headlight switch is off.

Is the Crank fuse supposed to have power in the Key On position? I searched and found 1 thread here from years ago dealing with the Crank fuse, but no definitive answer there.

I'm at a loss here that the cluster is not lighting up as expected. Hopefully the 18 year old harness didn't snap/crackle/pop when it was tied to the side during engine R&R. I have double checked my grounds as well, 1 at the pass rear head, behind intake.....2 at the drivers read head, behind intake.....2 behind the ps pump bolted to the block.....2 at the front corner body mounts that are part of the E-fan & front lights harness.(I swapped a complete 2006 (front lights & E-fan) harness into my 2004 rig). In my experience dead usually means a ground was missed or is compromised. Hoping for a find on this as the frustration level is rising since everything went together beautifully until now. Thanks again.
 

Buggdave

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I don't think I can add much, but I just finishing my engine / transmission rebuilt that took 10 months, I did not loose memory to my PCM when i finally installed the battery last month, my old tune was still present and not corrupted.

For the Fuse question, the Factory Service Manual for 2004 wiring, it states that the Crank Fuse is Hot in Start.
1664914870285.png

Also the ground for the instrument panel cluster is near the right A Pillar as shown on the ground distribution circuits
1664915477394.png
 

Rocket Man

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Picture for attention, nothing too exciting visually, just a typical engine compartment, but look at the cyl head casting # and that's where the excitement is. Fast fwd 3 months and it's all back together and in the Tahoe now.
I have everything put back together, no extra leftover parts or hardware that I can't remember where they go so that is good. Put a battery in and turn the key and it does turn over without starting, since the fuel pump relay is pulled and the coil packs disconnected(verifying oil pressure prior to starting it). But.....

Houston there might be a problem. The key fob works to lock and unlock the doors, the stereo works, the interior lights work, but the gauge cluster is only lighting up the Check Engine Light, nothing else. I have no odometer display, no gauge movement(no gauge motor sound audible when it goes key on). The only thing illuminated on the cluster is the Check Engine Light. This engine swap process from start to finish has taken me most of a year. Battery was out of the rig and computer disconnected since the teardown.

I seem to remember reading about a possible loss of memory on the factory anti-theft, but I can't find that info or thread that I previously read now. Is that what I am experiencing here? Thanks in advance for any pointers.View attachment 381722
Most likely a cluster problem, they’re a known issue for this platform. Any wrecking yards nearby that you can buy one from? They’re not too expensive unless you opt for a rebuilt one but for testing purposes it might be worth the money to buy one from a wrecked truck. Or if you know anybody else that has a NBS GM truck you can borrow theirs for a test.
 

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