Engine stalls when in drive

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clemenshess97

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Hey everybody,

my tahoe was acting very strange today...
When I turned it on after sitting for an hour the engine idled very rough between 500-800rpm and needed like 30secs to stay at 650rpms.
After 15mins of driving the check engine light came on and the display said the engine has reduced power, I pulled over and put it in park, it then idled to 1500rpm, then I turned it off.
When I turned it back on the reduced engine power was gone and the truck was acting normal. I drove another 5mins to my destination. When I then started it back up it wouldn‘t run properly, engine idled very low at around 200-500rpm and stalled several times. After a few tries it idled normal (around 650rpm). But when I put it in drive the engine stalls as if the engine hasn‘t enough power to start driving, it will online drive when I hit the gas. If I come to a stop it stalls and I need to put it in neutral when I come to a traffic light and when it is about to stall at around 200-500rpm I loose the power steering.

The check engine light is gone, because after the first time the problem occured and was gone after I turned it off and on again I figured I just reset the truck by unconnecting the battery (stupid idea since I now can‘t have the error code scanned...)

The truck got a new catalytic converter a year ago and new O2 sensors as well, so I think this is not the problem.


Does anyone have a idea what this can be ?
I
appreciate every help I can get, since there are not many US carshops here in Germany and most of them are usually booked out very good...


edit: battery is a couple weeks old
I also tried it with the AC turned off so the AC compressor doesn‘t kick in and out additional stress on the engine
 
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OR VietVet

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Shall I just guess what year you have? Might be related to this thread: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...ine-power-message-and-p1516-look-here.120569/


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.
 

Fless

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The check engine light is gone, because after the first time the problem occured and was gone after I turned it off and on again I figured I just reset the truck by unconnecting the battery (stupid idea since I now can‘t have the error code scanned...)

Even though the CEL isn't on at the moment, the old code might show up in the scanner as a history code.
 
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clemenshess97

clemenshess97

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Shall I just guess what year you have? Might be related to this thread: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...ine-power-message-and-p1516-look-here.120569/


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.

Sorry, forgot about putting in a signature.

I recently got the AC filled up. Thats all the work that was done the last few months, except for a oil change two months ago.
The car can also run on LPG, thats the only mod it has.

A bad fuel pump can‘t be the problem because its also acting strange when I run on LPG (I can choose between gasoline and LPG, the car has two tanks with two seperate pumps)
 

OR VietVet

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Sorry, forgot about putting in a signature.

I recently got the AC filled up. Thats all the work that was done the last few months, except for a oil change two months ago.
The car can also run on LPG, thats the only mod it has.

A bad fuel pump can‘t be the problem because its also acting strange when I run on LPG (I can choose between gasoline and LPG, the car has two tanks with two seperate pumps)



I think you should read thru that thread and do what that guy did. His is also an 03 that is the drive by wire set up.

This may help as well.

https://www.fixmyoldride.com/Chevro...e7e5cd24ed24635&at_ab=per-2&at_pos=3&at_tot=4
 
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clemenshess97

clemenshess97

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I‘ll check that.

I‘ll also clean the throttle body and mass airflow sensor today, as my symptoms all seem to match up with the symptoms of these components being full of dirt.
 
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clemenshess97

clemenshess97

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Update: cleaning the throttle body and the mass airflow sensor seemed to have worked. Truck idles very smooth and seems to have more power than ever before. It won‘t stall anymore.
Throttle body was kinda dirty, the mass airflow sensor also had a little bit of dirt on it, but not that much.

C50E9D0A-B029-4ED3-936F-7E64F1A23C1C.jpeg
 

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