Engine Revving in Park

[ugadawgs311]

Here is the report I received:

Engine Control Module (ECM) 8 Codes

1.P0068-00: Throttle Body Air Flow Performance
2.P0101-00: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
Performance
3.P0103-00: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit
High Frequency
4.P0106-00: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
Sensor Performance
5.P0121-00: Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1
Performance
6.P0300-00: Engine Misfire Detected
7.P0521-00: Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Sensor
Performance
8.P0573-00: Brake Switch Circuit 1 High Voltage

Transmission Control Module
(TCM) 0 Code
Rollover Sensor (RS) 0 Code
Supplemental Inflatable
Restraint (SIR) 0 Code

Electronic Brake Control
Module (EBCM) 2 Codes

1.C0561-71: System Disabled Information Stored
Invalid Serial Data Received
2.C0242-00: Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Indicated Traction Control System (TCS)
Malfunction

So, 10 codes in total. Quite the list! The shop replaced the MAF, but when they tried restarting the vehicle, it wouldn't turn over. They took my battery out and tried another one, and the vehicle started just fine. I've had this issue with my battery before (i.e. all the sudden not starting, not even trying to turn the engine over). I've taken it to shops to have the battery tested, and it reads ok on the computer, but just won't start for whatever reason. In the past, it just all the sudden goes away one day and starts perfectly again with no issue. I decided to just go ahead and get a new battery at this point. I don't want this to happen when I'm out somewhere traveling with family and am all the sudden stranded because of a faulty battery.

Since they replaced the battery, all the check engine codes are clear. So, now it's hard to tell if replacing the MAF was the only fix I needed. I guess I need to drive around for a little while and see if the check engine light comes back or if there are any engine issues while driving.

 

[Geotrash]

Here is the report I received:

Engine Control Module (ECM) 8 Codes

1.P0068-00: Throttle Body Air Flow Performance
2.P0101-00: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
Performance
3.P0103-00: Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor Circuit
High Frequency
4.P0106-00: Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
Sensor Performance
5.P0121-00: Throttle Position (TP) Sensor 1
Performance
6.P0300-00: Engine Misfire Detected
7.P0521-00: Engine Oil Pressure (EOP) Sensor
Performance
8.P0573-00: Brake Switch Circuit 1 High Voltage

Transmission Control Module
(TCM) 0 Code
Rollover Sensor (RS) 0 Code
Supplemental Inflatable
Restraint (SIR) 0 Code

Electronic Brake Control
Module (EBCM) 2 Codes

1.C0561-71: System Disabled Information Stored
Invalid Serial Data Received
2.C0242-00: Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
Indicated Traction Control System (TCS)
Malfunction

So, 10 codes in total. Quite the list! The shop replaced the MAF, but when they tried restarting the vehicle, it wouldn't turn over. They took my battery out and tried another one, and the vehicle started just fine. I've had this issue with my battery before (i.e. all the sudden not starting, not even trying to turn the engine over). I've taken it to shops to have the battery tested, and it reads ok on the computer, but just won't start for whatever reason. In the past, it just all the sudden goes away one day and starts perfectly again with no issue. I decided to just go ahead and get a new battery at this point. I don't want this to happen when I'm out somewhere traveling with family and am all the sudden stranded because of a faulty battery.

Since they replaced the battery, all the check engine codes are clear. So, now it's hard to tell if replacing the MAF was the only fix I needed. I guess I need to drive around for a little while and see if the check engine light comes back or if there are any engine issues while driving.

The no start condition is just as likely a bad ground or cable as a bad battery. The cables corrode from the inside out and the main ground point near the battery corrodes enough sometimes to have intermittent connectivity.

 

[ugadawgs311]

The no start condition is just as likely a bad ground or cable as a bad battery. The cables corrode from the inside out and the main ground point near the battery corrodes enough sometimes to have intermittent connectivity.

Gotcha. Hopefully a new battery will solve the issue for a few years.

As far as all the other codes, could it be possible that those showed up just because of the MAF? And now that the MAF is replaced, the other codes should be cleared for now? Just want to make sure I'm not essentially getting a Band-Aid for a few weeks just to have another issue next month.

 

[Geotrash]

Gotcha. Hopefully a new battery will solve the issue for a few years.

As far as all the other codes, could it be possible that those showed up just because of the MAF? And now that the MAF is replaced, the other codes should be cleared for now? Just want to make sure I'm not essentially getting a Band-Aid for a few weeks just to have another issue next month.

Like Wes, I've never seen a MAF trigger more throttle so while something is definitely going on in the airflow and throttle sensor array, it's too early to consider the MAF the culprit, in my opinion. Like others have said, the shop doesn't seem to have done a proper diagnostic that includes monitoring MAF sensor and TPS with a scanner during an uncommanded throttle event so right now it's a spray and pray approach with a parts cannon, unfortunately.

 

[George B]

It should be noted that these rigs get really finicky with low voltage and bad battery performance. It may have been the battery or power related all along. Keep us posted.

 

[ugadawgs311]

Got it. Well hopefully it'll run for a little while with no issues. For added context, back in December I had the TPS replaced. The tech at the time told me I could just replace the sensor or replace the entire system (more $$$). Replacing the sensor, he said, would be a temporary fix, and he couldn't say if it'd be fine for another month, 6 months, year, etc. Since I'm planning on selling or trading in the vehicle soon, I went with the cheaper option just to replace the sensor. Maybe I should've opted to replace the whole system, but again, I don't want to dump a ton of money into the vehicle if I'll be parting ways with it soon.

 

[ugadawgs311]

It should be noted that these rigs get really finicky with low voltage and bad battery performance. It may have been the battery or power related all along. Keep us posted.

Good to know! I've had numerous issues with the electrical/computer components on this vehicle. While driving 80 mph on the interstate about 1.5 years ago, all the electronics suddenly shut off on me. No speedometer, lights, gauges, radio, etc. Definitely not a fun experience with my family in the car.

 

[George B]

Good to know! I've had numerous issues with the electrical/computer components on this vehicle. While driving 80 mph on the interstate about 1.5 years ago, all the electronics suddenly shut off on me. No speedometer, lights, gauges, radio, etc. Definitely not a fun experience with my family in the car.

Consider a “Big Three” upgrade to the charging system. At the very least address the ground from the battery to the engine and chassis. It’s cheap and easy. Solved some abs problems for me.

 

[Geotrash]

Consider a “Big Three” upgrade to the charging system. At the very least address the ground from the battery to the engine and chassis. It’s cheap and easy. Solved some abs problems for me.

+1. The cables corrode from the inside out also, which is a little extra bit of comic relief because they look perfectly fine to the eye. So you go about replacing all sorts of sensors on a multi-day, $1000 wild goose chase while the problem was the simplest part of the system all along.

 

[George B]

Look here:
Post in thread 'GeorgeB’s 2013 Suburban LTZ “Fin”'
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/georgeb’s-2013-suburban-ltz-“fin”.116933/post-1639816

 

[George B]

I had a corroded cable causing a bad ground that would knock the radio out whenever the abs would actuate. At a bare minimum replace negative cable with a new factory one.

 

[Doubeleive]

Gotcha. Hopefully a new battery will solve the issue for a few years.

As far as all the other codes, could it be possible that those showed up just because of the MAF? And now that the MAF is replaced, the other codes should be cleared for now? Just want to make sure I'm not essentially getting a Band-Aid for a few weeks just to have another issue next month.

I have personally seen a bad maf cause 3/4 of those codes including the misfire, map and transmission codes but not the oil pressure or brake codes those would be unrelated
like others mentioned low or bad voltage can cause a multitude of codes to happen like a christmas tree
if it was the maf causing high/fast idle this would be the first case I have read about usually it is the opposite: low idle or unable to idle steady or start and die or unable to rev up or no shift up or sporadic shifting are the most common issue's with the maf. but a bad maf can cause all kinds of havoc

 

[Rocket Man]

Yep could have just been the battery or cables that caused everything. Sounds like the shop did the shotgun approach with very little actual diagnostics. I agree with doing the big 3 upgrade as well as replacing the negative cable.
I’m wondering what that shop meant by replacing the “entire system” as opposed to the TPS. Anyway, keep us posted. Sounds to me like it was battery/ cable issues which like others have said will cause all kinds of issues and associated codes.

 

[ugadawgs311]

Quick update: got the vehicle back and everything seems to be normal. I went ahead and changed the oil too (mechanic said it looked like sludge in there). For now check engine light is off and the engine seems to run fine. Hopefully it was just the MAF sensor, but I guess only time and driving will tell. Will report back once I get around 150 miles on it. Thanks for all the advice and comments so far!

 

[Rocket Man]

Or the battery or battery cable……

 

[ugadawgs311]

Or the battery or battery cable……

Yes, that can certainly help too!

 

[mattbta]

Back in the early LS1 days both my 98 and 99 would do a crazy idle relearn after the battery was disconnected for some time. Was super wild as they'd surge and stumble and recover for about 5 minutes or so. My 2004 has never done this but it is still recommended to follow a procedure after battery disconnect. Not sure if the same on 2007. Just random commentary...

 

[ugadawgs311]

Just a quick update here. I’ve now gone over 3 weeks and 200+ miles of driving, and the check engine light has stayed off. Hopefully it was just the MAF sensor all along (although I won’t be surprised if something else comes up soon).

 

[Geotrash]

Just a quick update here. I’ve now gone over 3 weeks and 200+ miles of driving, and the check engine light has stayed off. Hopefully it was just the MAF sensor all along (although I won’t be surprised if something else comes up soon).

Nice. Thanks for following up!

 

[Rocket Man]

Awesome news. How’s the oil pressure been?