Engine mount

[BattleTank]

Looks like my drivers side mount is getting worn.

What's needed to do this tool wise?
Any mounts to avoid buying?

 

[j91z28d1]

there's a sticky above you.

but short story they aren't fun to Change but doable. all the cheap replacements rip again pretty quickly. the 300$ each hummer mounts are the only good ones.

part numbers in the thread above.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I second the Hummer III motor mounts as a replacement.

 

[BattleTank]

I avoided that one to begin with because of the 83 pages. First page is riddled with off topic BS about a dashboard.

Was hoping for a quick synopsis of what I needed.

 

[j91z28d1]

I avoided that one to begin with because of the 83 pages. First page is riddled with off topic BS about a dashboard.

Was hoping for a quick synopsis of what I needed.

long threads I sometimes start at the end and work backwards.


hummer 3 mounts from rock auto is usually the cheapest place for them. you need like 2 of the one side. again I don't know part number off hand. I guess the first post of that sticky could be updated with the details.


watch some youtube videos of the change. pull the fender liner, I jacked the motor up from the exhaust pipe, but others did it from the oil pan with some wood on the jack to protect it.

fight with it for a few hours and you can get the old one out out and new in with blood sweat and cussing.


I have not done my passenger size yet. the drivers gets pulled up and rips, the passenger side gets pushed down. I'll get around to it one day.

maybe while I have the oil pan off for that gasket.

 

[Geotrash]

I avoided that one to begin with because of the 83 pages. First page is riddled with off topic BS about a dashboard.

Was hoping for a quick synopsis of what I needed.

Most of us go with the mount for the H3 Hummer V8: https://a.co/d/0dxxYs9k

Not quite as smooth as the fluid filled factory mount but it'll be the last time you ever have to replace it.

My notes from when I did the driver's side:

1/ I separated the steering shaft. It was a pain to do and took some patience, but it improved access significantly.
2/ As others have said they did also, I took the front wheel off along with the fender liner. Takes 10 minutes to do both. Game changer.
3/ I removed the heat shield from the exhaust manifold after patiently waiting for the penetrating oil to do its job on the bolts.
4/ I used a block of wood under the oil pan with a good quality floor jack that made it easy to support the engine and carefully raise it incrementally as needed.
5/ I cut away the heat shield from the motor mount with a pair of tin snips to get better access to the bolts.
6/ I used a wobble joint on the socket wrench.

Having done the job now, I wager I could do it again in a couple of hours and less than 3 beers, taking my time.

It's also a really good time to change the engine oil cooler lines, if so equipped.

And, thank you for your military service.

 

[BattleTank]

long threads I sometimes start at the end and work backwards.


hummer 3 mounts from rock auto is usually the cheapest place for them. you need like 2 of the one side. again I don't know part number off hand. I guess the first post of that sticky could be updated with the details.


watch some youtube videos of the change. pull the fender liner, I jacked the motor up from the exhaust pipe, but others did it from the oil pan with some wood on the jack to protect it.

fight with it for a few hours and you can get the old one out out and new in with blood sweat and cussing.


I have not done my passenger size yet. the drivers gets pulled up and rips, the passenger side gets pushed down. I'll get around to it one day.

maybe while I have the oil pan off for that gasket.

Most of us go with the mount for the H3 Hummer V8: https://a.co/d/0dxxYs9k

Not quite as smooth as the fluid filled factory mount but it'll be the last time you ever have to replace it.

My notes from when I did the driver's side:

1/ I separated the steering shaft. It was a pain to do and took some patience, but it improved access significantly.
2/ As others have said they did also, I took the front wheel off along with the fender liner. Takes 10 minutes to do both. Game changer.
3/ I removed the heat shield from the exhaust manifold after patiently waiting for the penetrating oil to do its job on the bolts.
4/ I used a block of wood under the oil pan with a good quality floor jack that made it easy to support the engine and carefully raise it incrementally as needed.
5/ I cut away the heat shield from the motor mount with a pair of tin snips to get better access to the bolts.
6/ I used a wobble joint on the socket wrench.

Having done the job now, I wager I could do it again in a couple of hours and less than 3 beers, taking my time.

It's also a really good time to change the engine oil cooler lines, if so equipped.

And, thank you for your military service.

Thank you BOTH. THIS information should be stickied!

I love how labor time is expressed in the number of beers it takes.

 

[Foggy]

Not that it helps with this thread... But Holy **** those Hummer motor mounts
have gone UP in price.. I think I paid about $105 EACH when i did mine 4 years ago.
Glad I got on this forum and got em in.. I still have my stock one.. They were fine, I was
just upgrading and this forum helped out a lot

 

[solli5pack]

Along with a cooler full of beers make sure you have a full box of band aids! This job tears up the hands!

 

[gooffeyguy]

Not that it helps with this thread... But Holy **** those Hummer motor mounts
have gone UP in price.. I think I paid about $105 EACH when i did mine 4 years ago.
Glad I got on this forum and got em in.. I still have my stock one.. They were fine, I was
just upgrading and this forum helped out a lot

Yup, they were like $92 when I bought mine 4-5 years ago. They're like $250 now

 

[buckwild27]

Have any of you tried these?

07-13 GMT900 Poly Motor Mounts - Atomic Fabrication

These are POLY motor mounts that fit 07-13 GMT900 GM LS-equipped trucks including Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL, Suburban, Denali, and Escalade. They are a direct bolt up using factory hardware. All of my mounts have a lifetime warranty.

atomicfabandperformance.com

 

[BattleTank]

Along with a cooler full of beers make sure you have a full box of band aids! This job tears up the hands!

Heavy truck diesel mechanic here, my hands are scarred and calloused for life LOL

 

[petethepug]

Upmost respect for heavy diesel mechanics. The entire US & Military runs smoothly because of those dedicated to spec’g those out.

 

[BattleTank]

2 hours start to finish.

You 2wd folk have it easy compared to 4wd. Can't just go up underneath and get the engine bolts out.

Friend at work has done a few of these and advised removing front wheel and splash shield.

Tools used, 2 6 inch extensions, 15MM, a Snap-On sparkplug ratchet, 3/8" wobble adapter, 10mm to remove the manifold heat shield. Ended up taking the mount apart before getting it across the frame rail. Had to disassemble new one to get it inside the frame rail and then reassemble it.

Last feller was correct. 3 beer job.

And it was 104 outside while I was doing it, then it got to 111.

 

[Geotrash]

And it was 104 outside while I was doing it, then it got to 111.

That's hearty.

 

[BattleTank]

Have any of you tried these?

07-13 GMT900 Poly Motor Mounts - Atomic Fabrication

These are POLY motor mounts that fit 07-13 GMT900 GM LS-equipped trucks including Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Yukon XL, Suburban, Denali, and Escalade. They are a direct bolt up using factory hardware. All of my mounts have a lifetime warranty.

atomicfabandperformance.com

I forgot you posted this...
Interesting, they resemble the mounts in my S10 V8 swap.

 

[buckwild27]

I forgot you posted this...
Interesting, they resemble the mounts in my S10 V8 swap.

They look pretty solid. And they have a lifetime Guarantee. They remind me of the old school motor mounts from the 70's

 

[BattleTank]

They look pretty solid. And they have a lifetime Guarantee. They remind me of the old school motor mounts from the 70's

Yeah they do. The first ones I got for my swap which looked real cheesey looking only lasted about 3 months(excessive launches) So I got the solid ones and have held up for the last 8 years.

 

[buckwild27]

Yeah they do. The first ones I got for my swap which looked real cheesey looking only lasted about 3 months(excessive launches) So I got the solid ones and have held up for the last 8 years.

I was thinking of trying these mounts in my truck in the future

 

[Charlie207]

Thank you BOTH. THIS information should be stickied!

I love how labor time is expressed in the number of beers it takes.

It's very arbitrary. When I did my mounts, I drank three beers with a bucket of tools in one hand while I stared at my Yukon, thinking about how much I didn't want to pull the tire and fender liner out.

I have a drinking skill though, so it's all relative.