Dustin Jacksons 2008 Chevy Tahoe Build Thread

[Dustin Jackson]

Turned over 200,000 miles 7/27/2024

 

[Dustin Jackson]

At about 200,080 miles I replaced the lower control arms after I found one of my Moog balljoint was loose. I went with Mevotech TTX for the lower control arms.

Leading up to this the ride on the Tahoe was pretty hard and loose feeling, going over old pavement roads was kind of scary because of how much the Tahoe would jerk around.

With the new balljoints in it's a night and day different. The steering feels heavier and more confident and uneven roads don't influent the ride anymore. Very happy about the ride quality of the suspension.

2 things to note about the mevotech TTX parts.
1.) the upper balljoint boot is coming apart already
2.) the lower balljoint zerk fittings are facing the front and not the rear but they do include zerk fitting caps.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Another development is I've been chasing down bad shaking on the freeway above 70mph. I jacked up the tahoe and when I spin the wheels they end up contacting the ground so it seems the tires are out of round. I made an appointment with the tire shop I bought them at and will update on the result here. The tires are 3 years old KO2 tires with about 30k miles on them, they are in good shape still but they ride so bad right now.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Ended up warrantying the upper control arm through Rock Auto. I had to buy a new control arm and ship the bad one back in the same box and they will supposedly give me a refund here in a couple day.

Just checked the ball joints and everything looks good still had to take the original mevotech off and put the new one on a couple weeks ago.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

I finally got around to removing the broken sway bar bracket bolts thanks to some broken bolt extractors from Amazon.

Finally have the sway bar on after having it off for 2 years.

I am really impressed with these Sway bar end links from Ac Delco, the entire set of hardware is like grade 8 and the bushings seem really stout and say made in USA. The last time i ran the sway bar i used a "premium" set of end links from Moog and they had these marshmallow bushings and they were trashed after 6 months.

I tightened them just enough to where the thread started coming out the top of the end link nut.

Here is the part number of the sway bar end links

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Since my last update I have discovered a problem on the driver side, there is a click in the wheel when moving it in the 12 and 6 positions. After much inspection I determined it was the wheel bearing and warrantied the timken unit and still had the problem. I thought it was the upper control arm so I warrantied that as well but the problem is still present.

I don't understand, I have replaced everything except for the tie rods and I am still having a strange click coming from the hub area when trying to wiggle the wheel. I removed the caliper and tested and the problem persists.

 

[swathdiver]

I finally got around to removing the broken sway bar bracket bolts thanks to some broken bolt extractors from Amazon.

Finally have the sway bar on after having it off for 2 years.

View attachment 435568


I am really impressed with these Sway bar end links from Ac Delco, the entire set of hardware is like grade 8 and the bushings seem really stout and say made in USA. The last time i ran the sway bar i used a "premium" set of end links from Moog and they had these marshmallow bushings and they were trashed after 6 months.

I tightened them just enough to where the thread started coming out the top of the end link nut.
View attachment 435569

Here is the part number of the sway bar end links
View attachment 435570

Since my last update I have discovered a problem on the driver side, there is a click in the wheel when moving it in the 12 and 6 positions. After much inspection I determined it was the wheel bearing and warrantied the timken unit and still had the problem. I thought it was the upper control arm so I warrantied that as well but the problem is still present.

17 foot pounds

I don't understand, I have replaced everything except for the tie rods and I am still having a strange click coming from the hub area when trying to wiggle the wheel. I removed the caliper and tested and the problem persists.

Hub? Have you measured tie rod play on both the inner and outer tie rods? Any movement over 1 millimeter is out of spec.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@swathdiver I think I covered that in my inspection but I’ll double check by disconnecting the tie rod from the knuckle and seeing if the symptom persists.

The Tahoe rides great expect above 70mph it starts to get micro death wobble and it feels terrible. Not sure if it’s the tires or if this click is the culprit

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@swathdiver How do you know it's time to replace the steering rack itself? I haven't tested the tie rod ends yet but I'm at 200k miles so I am thinking of replacing the steering rack as well.

 

[swathdiver]

@swathdiver How do you know it's time to replace the steering rack itself? I haven't tested the tie rod ends yet but I'm at 200k miles so I am thinking of replacing the steering rack as well.

Leaking, once the seals start to leak, it's time to rebuild or replace. The bushings that insulate it from the chassis usually go first and are now replaceable too.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@swathdiver Well Just tested without the tie rod attached and still have the knock, I can't identify where it's coming from this is driving me absolutely insane. I have an appointment on monday to have a shop take a look at it for me.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Took it to the shop yesterday, they said that after tightening the CV nut and greasing the lower and upper balljoints the clicking stopped. They did it all at once and don't know what the fix or the problem was. I verified myself when I got home that the driver wheel is no longer clicking when shaking the tire.

I am not 100% satisfied with the outcome of taking it to the shop but I am sort of happy the sound stopped. If this is a true problem it will come back with time so I will be sure to check for this periodically.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

About a month ago I inspected the front end and was able to reproduce the clicking sound, I greased the lower balljoint and the click went away so it has to be the new lower balljoint which makes sense because it's only part I haven't re-done (again). I warrantied the TTX lower control arm and put a new one in and all seems well for this.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

The front end had continued to develop more clunks and pops so I bit the bullet and redid the steering including the rack, inner and outter tie rods, and the CV joint that connects the steering shaft to the steering rack. I went with a reman BBC from Rock Auto on recommendation and while the new rack looks odd is seems to be performing well. I flushed the power steering system at the same time.

I took it to a new shop for alignment and after all said and done the thing feels great, between the new lower balljoint and redone steering I am very happy with this rig. Now I am wondering when the rear control arms need to be done because those are the only things I haven't touched on the suspension.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Took it on vacation to Humboldt this weekend and it did very well through the mountains.

 

[Sir_Hiro]

Took it on vacation to Humboldt this weekend and it did very well through the mountains.

View attachment 452226

Front: Moog 81244 + Bilstein 5100 at lowest setting.
Rear: Moog 81069 + Bilstein 5100

Is this what your currently running in this picture? Because that's a perfect stance of what I want my Yukon to have

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@Sir_Hiro Yes, I guess I should say the bilsteins are at stock setting and not actually set to the lower perch, they are set for no lift basically. All the lift comes from the spring.

 

[Sir_Hiro]

@Sir_Hiro Yes, I guess I should say the bilsteins are at stock setting and not actually set to the lower perch, they are set for no lift basically. All the lift comes from the spring.

I'll write the numbers down. I'll buy when I'm in the mood to lift the Yukon. But thats a good stance. Ride quality still decent?

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@Sir_Hiro I would describe it more as a performance suspension instead of for comfort. I like it but if you're looking to float on clouds this isn't it

 

[Dustin Jackson]

Hey quys, quick update. In September my wifes Civic was totaled so I bought myself a 2015 Suburban at the beginning of October and my wife has been daily driving the Tahoe now.

At 213,000 miles my wife got home and said that the transmission said it was overheating and wasn't shifting right. I noticed there was coolant leaking in the driveway but there was still coolant in the coolant reservoir. I asked what the motor temp said she wasn't sure so I'm not sure if the motor overheated or not.

I took the Tahoe or a quick drive as is and confirmed no 3rd or 4th gear.

I replaced the radiator, water pump, thermostat, radiator hoses, and replaced all the plastic coolant T's with the updated metal versions from dorman.

Now I needed a transmission, I am usually a DIY guy but this was not something I wanted to undertake myself and wanted to have the support of a local shops investment in my Tahoe if I am serious about keeping it on the road for another 20 years, which is my plan.

I called around town looking for a transmission and one shop stood out among the rest in their reputation from others in the area who have used them and their 2 year/24,000mile warranty was the best around. I commissioned this business to install a rebuilt transmission in my Tahoe for $3,800 including parts, labor, and installation.

Dropped the Tahoe off on Monday and just picked it up Friday morning and all seems well! I did have a little problem with the temp gauge climbing when stopped but a healthy test drive through the mountains must have help burp the cooling system and that doesn't seem to be happening anymore.

My only remaining concern was any damage the motor sustained during this overheating situation. I did replace the oil and got one of those combustion tester kits for the coolant jug and so far no signs of motor damage, no mixing fluids.