Dual alternator install

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gibsonm21

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Ok, so I have been inactive on here for the past year or two, mostly because of my brokeness, but I'm back on my feet now. I decided to put a new system in my truck, Nothing too big, just something that was loud and still gave me my cargo area (6 Sundown Sa-8v2/2 1500s).

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I also wanted to make sure that all of my supporting services were comfortable supplying my amps. I thought that my Irragi and 3 batts would hold my voltage high, but due to the PCM control, my voltage still fluctuated to much for my liking. Here's my previous install


http://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14705

I was able to catch the Christmas sale at DC power and I grabbed a dual alternator kit with a 320 SPX-I for 750$. The SPX is a relatively new alt by DC that is designed to make most of its power at idle.

Anyway, on with the install....

The DC Power dual alt kit comes the Alt, bracket/support, belt, and wiring.
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First things first, I had to make some room(and find a nut I dropped into the engine).

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The alts together, It may be hard to see in the pics, but the SPX-I is noticeably smaller.

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The directions call for you to locate and remove three of the mounting bolts for the OEM alt bracket. The hardest part of this picture was drilling out the threads of the right mounting foot of the OEM alt. This would have been an easy step, it was a b!#%$ to get my drill(with the bit) in between the bracket and the cooling fan.

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Time to put the bracket on!

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This support bracket runs from the base of the right OEM mounting foot to the left mounting bolt on the second alt(and the reason you have to drill out the threads that I mentioned). I read later down the instructions that it is optional. :emotions122:

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Now put the alt on(using the support bracket of course)

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Once everything is secured, you have to wire up the relay. This relay taps into a switched 12v source in your fuse box in order to turn the alt on.

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And the final step is installing the new serpentine belt. This step is what I feared the most, but it was the easiest part haha.

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And this is the result: Full tilt at idle in the garage! lol

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gibsonm21

gibsonm21

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It's definitely my best investment on my truck so far. I need to change my circuit breakers to fuses because the alt is putting out so much current, my breakers keep tripping.
 

LoHoe

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Looks good. I need to order mine but heard that DC Power wasnt doing good business when it comes to getting orders out.
 
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gibsonm21

gibsonm21

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Yea man, my buddy that I compete with works for them and he told me to get the spx-i because everything else would be more than a month wait. I don't get it, but oh well.
 

LoHoe

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Yea man, my buddy that I compete with works for them and he told me to get the spx-i because everything else would be more than a month wait. I don't get it, but oh well.

Looks like I need to make a order then so I can get better output to my 4 batteries so I could slam harder
 

Stresst

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Looks like I need to make a order then so I can get better output to my 4 batteries so I could slam harder


I havent had a system in 10 years but my truck 99 Navigator had 6 batteries, 50 farad alumna pro with an Ohio Generator alternator with an external regulator. I had 15 volts at 1000rpm and hit 158db (I think it was). No reason for two alternators IMHO
 
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gibsonm21

gibsonm21

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I like steady voltage when playing my system and running one alt put me at the mercy of the PCM which I didn't like. Congrats on the score
 

carcrz

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can you give us more how to on the rest of the wiring like from the the oem alt. to the dc alt. to the batt.
how many batt are you running thanks bro ,
 
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gibsonm21

gibsonm21

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can you give us more how to on the rest of the wiring like from the the oem alt. to the dc alt. to the batt.
how many batt are you running thanks bro ,

If you're referring to the install wiring, it was the easiest part of the install. There are 3 wires, two of them go to the alt stud and the other is a ground.

If you're wanting to know about my overall wiring, I plugged the vehicle in to the old high output alt and ran 0 ga wiring from it to the stock battery( also did the big 3). That's the end of that alt story.

The second alt only runs my car audio. I have 1 CnD 100 AH battery (soon to be XS d3400) under my hood and 2 XS XP3000s in the back. I have 2 runs of positive and 2 runs of negative 0ga from the back batteries to my audio battery under the hood. I also did the big 3 on the audio battery under the hood. All of this for 2 Sundown 1500s.

Hopefully that answers your ?, if not, let me know.
 

carcrz

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ok i got a few more questions
1) you said you did 2 runs from the back to the batt under the hood.... is that right?
2) why 2 runs is that for more current flow?
3) are your rear audio batts connected to the front batt?

i know some of these questions are real dumb but i just need some clarity thanks
 
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gibsonm21

gibsonm21

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ok i got a few more questions
1) you said you did 2 runs from the back to the batt under the hood.... is that right?
2) why 2 runs is that for more current flow?

Yep, I have 2 runs of Pos & Neg. It helps with current flow. Definitely overkill for the amps I have in here now, but when I was running bigger amps, there was a noticeable improvement in my system voltage.

3) are your rear audio batts connected to the front batt?

Yep, The batteries I have under the hood are the only components I have actually grounded to the frame, everything else is powered from the batteries/grounded to the batteries (including the back batteries to the front battery). It keeps me from having to search my truck with a DMM looking for a good ground. Also consolidates my connection points and eliminates any chance for ground loops.
 

slogging

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I know this is old but I want to do this but with probably two dc 320 alts together Gibsonm21 can you pm me your number so I can contact you on this matter?
 

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