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OK. I am assuming you pulled it out from up top? Didn't have to remove exhaust manifold? Looks like the heat shield on the mount might get in the way
Manifold heatshield will need to come off, unless you don't care about it... hammer it in.
Did not remove manifold, just heat shield.
Yes, that is the right one.
I cannot speak to the difficulty of removing these bolts, I haven't had the opportunity yet, but I can speak to doing suspension work on a 2007 Forester I bought used. The PO did lots of iterations on the suspension, and I discovered that he applied some copper anti-seize on the fasteners. Now, whenever I do work under a vehicle that will see water and maybe road salts, I apply a little copper anti-seize.
Holy Sh*T!!!
The H3 is no longer supported...we all know what that means...
How did the Anchors hold up? Do you have mileage or years?
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
Very nice write-up.I got my H3 mount in from Rockauto and got it installed on my Tahoe yesterday!
Not too bad a job, but not the easiest, either.
Good tips were provided in this thread, and lots of tips on a Web search.
Lots of tips on Tahoeyukonform, too!
This thread helped, but I did not follow the exact steps listed on it, nor did I have to follow all the steps from other tips
How to: 4WD Driver Side motor mount replacement w/o diff removal (quick write-up)
Long story short, driver side motor mount broken. Dealer wanted $1200 because they had to take the front diff out to do it. BTW, my truck is a 2007 Yukon SLT, 5.3 4WD with a 4spd. Things may differ a little for folks with other drivertrains and you 2WD guys will have it easy with all that...
Below is how I approached the job.
I did not have to pull the driver's side tire off or remove the plastic fender well.
I did not have to drop the front drive shaft, although that might have helped a little.
I removed the exhaust manifold heat shield, but didn't need to remove the exhaust manifold itself. One of the tiny bolts for the shield snapped (GrrrI), but the others came out easily.
I did remove the steering shaft linkage. I used a yellow marker to paint alignment marks at each joint, ensuring it would go back together the same way I took it apart. Then, I soaked each joint with PB Blaster. It probably didn't need to be soaked, but I had no idea how difficult it would be to remove the linkage. I used a 15mm socket and wrench to remove the fasteners, then slid the part connecting to the linkage near the firewall out of the joint. The other joint then came off with a slight pull.
The three chassis mount bolts were tight! I used a 20" long 1/2" extension and a swivel socket adapter to get to the bolts, and then attached my 1/2" impact to the other end. I had to loosen and tighten the bolts back and forth a little until they came free.
Getting to the four engine bolts is a challenge with the damn heat shield in the way. I knew I wouldn't reuse the heat shield, so I used my long pry bar to mash it around the mount, giving me better access and a clear view of the four bolts. I have seen plenty of videos where guys can access these bolts without having to do what I did to the heat shield, but I was trying to make it easier for myself. Once I did this, I had a clear view and better access to the bolts.
The back top and bottom bolts, I found it easier to get to them with my long 1/2" extension and swivel socket adapter from underneath the vehicle. I couldn't get a good angle through the fender well, and the exhaust manifold blocked a clear view from the top. But I did have good access from the bottom using my long extension. These bolts loosened up with no problem. I then loosened the front two bolts from up top, which are far easier to do.
To lift the engine, I tried using my floor jack, but I still wanted to have access from the bottom, and it was going to be in the way. I decided to use my bottle jack, which gave me more working room on the floor, and jacked it to a point where there is a bell housing bolt near the oil pan. I did not want to jack it up on the oil pan itself. I did use a block of wood between the jack and the engine as suggested by others; I needed the extra length for the jack, as well as for some protection. As mentioned in the tips, I was careful not to jack too far and watched the top of the engine where it meets the firewall.
I removed the four engine bolts, and then was able to pull the old mount forward and up through the top. It took a little twisting and wiggling to clear everything and get it out.
I then installed the H3 mount. As others said, it is easier to put back in compared to the OEM one. But it did take a little bit of wiggling and twisting to get the alignment pin to find its hole. I did not have to cut down the pin as one person suggested in a video I saw. It was a bit of a pain to lean over the fender to get the length in my arms to maneuver it, but I remained patient and kept wiggling and twisting until it found its place.
The rest of the install is just the reverse of the previous steps, except for mashing the shield. The shield on the H3 mount is much smaller than the OEM one and easier to install. Having the space to torque all the bolts was a bit of a pain, but using my extensions and swivel sockets, I was able to get it done.
Anyway, thanks for all the help diagnosing the problem and giving great suggestions for doing the job. I hope my steps help someone with their mounts. This forum is the BEST for our vehicles!
Here is a pick of the old mount.
View attachment 467876
