Do I need a 2500?

[Oldmopars]

I posted some questions about a 2008 2500. I guess I need to know if I really need a 2500.
The main reason for my thinking I need a 2500 is that I have a trailer that has a MAX GVRW of 8000lbs.
Dry it is 6500lbs.
From what I have read the 1500 can haul 8000lbs, and the 2500 can haul 9600lbs.
I know it would be nice to have the 2500, but I never fully load the trailer and I tow it maybe 3 times a year max.
There are a lot more options for a 1500 Suburban/Yukon LX than 2500s.
I just want to be sure that I need to spend the extra money before I do.

 

[NOSOK]

I think the 1500 is closer to 5k #. At least that's what my hitch says and google confirms.

If your trailer is 6500# you're already considerably over the rated tow limit. Which personally I'd be fine with for relatively short/slow trips, but if you're towing frequently I'd spring for the 2500. You also get some extra power with the 6.0. Or look for a Denali trim or Escalade with the 6.2.

 

[NOSOK]

Actually looks like it can be up to 8k # but it's dependent on the rear axle.

https://my.chevrolet.com/content/da...s/MY14 Trailering Guide_1113.13 - Equinox.pdf

 

[wsteele]

I posted some questions about a 2008 2500. I guess I need to know if I really need a 2500.
The main reason for my thinking I need a 2500 is that I have a trailer that has a MAX GVRW of 8000lbs.
Dry it is 6500lbs.
From what I have read the 1500 can haul 8000lbs, and the 2500 can haul 9600lbs.
I know it would be nice to have the 2500, but I never fully load the trailer and I tow it maybe 3 times a year max.
There are a lot more options for a 1500 Suburban/Yukon LX than 2500s.
I just want to be sure that I need to spend the extra money before I do.

I have a 2007 Yukon with 5.3L, 3.73 RA, heavy towing package, transmission cooler, etc. I towed a 5,000 lb enclosed trailer for it first 60K miles and it towed wonderfully, although I did need a transmission around 76K. I honestly would never hook an 8000 lb trailer to it. It would not be comfortable and I honestly doubt the truck would last towing 8,000 lb. If I had 8,000 to pull, at a minimum it would be a 2500 Sub/XL. Likely would seriously consider something more like a Diesel 3/4-1T pickup.

 

[petethepug]

Good question. I had a buddy who’d tow a concrete pump on his 1500 p/u. He went through a trans and two rear ends because it wasn’t made to be a daily hauler. It could tow the load but it ran a race every day when a 3/4 or 1T truck would of made it a stroll.

Overbuilt is better for what you’re towing. You’ll pay a little more up front but less down the road. Obviously you wouldn’t tow it in a 1500 truck right? 2500 has the 1.5” vs 1” thick rotors to dissipate the heat from your load as well as the larger fuel tank. Lastly savings the motor engineered to run on Reg fuel will pay you back.

 

[avalonandl]

A Denali XL will pull 12k....for a short distance...

Ask me how I know. I highly recommend getting the 6.2 engine....

 

[intheburbs]

All I can offer is my experience with my vehicles...

2001 Suburban 1500
2008 Suburban 2500
2009 Sierra Denali 1500

I towed a 7,000-lb trailer (actual weight, scales) around the country with my 01 1500. It was fine, nothing great or horribly dangerous. But I broke the rear axle on two separate trips - catastrophic, crippling damage.

Hence the acquisition of the 08 2500. Among other things, the 2500 has a Godzilla 10.5" free-floating rear axle. This axle is rated by the manufacturer, American Axle, for 8600 lbs. The lower rating in the Suburban is due to the tires.

Even though I tow much less frequently nowadays, I will still always have a 2500. The durability and added beefiness make it worth the price premium, IMHO.

Both of my half-ton trucks became quote the money pits as I approached 150k miles and beyond. Hubs/bearings, axles, half-shafts, brakes (I believe GM half-tons are under braked) - all inferior to the 2500. And don't even get me started about having to replace the Denali front diff at only 120k miles.

Meanwhile, my 2500 went from 100k to 200k miles, and I've spent about $300 total in repairs over the 7 years of ownership. And I work it hard. I haven't even done the brakes. Oh, and it's a 9900-lb braking system.

So, do you NEED the 2500? Probably not. But, in the long run, it might be the overall cheaper option.

 

[CaptainAmerica1]

Preach!!

 

[bigdog9191999]

I depends on what actual weight you will be pulling and how often. the capacity is less relevant ( of the trailer) say the trailer is rated for 20k and you only put 2k on it.. ect.

one of the biggest advantage of the 2500 when pulling regular is that everything is beefier. the frame, axles, suspension ect. all this makes for a much more comfortable experience overall as your not pushing everything to the max every time, and things last longer because of this.

 

[Dantheman1540]

I'd get your trailer with the max amount you plan to put in it weighed, I've found every load I thought I estimated well was considerably heavier than I thought. That being said I also don't think a factory 1500 with a 4l60 trans and 5.3 would be very safe towing 6k or more. My truck is well modded for towing including NNBS brakes and a hydro-boost master yet the brakes are still the weak point in my opinion. However, my trans is nearly bullet proof and I don't think a 4l60 would like it at all. If you got a 6.2 6l80 truck I think it would do considerably better.

 

[avalonandl]

I found a 2500 in michigan yesterday on line for 17k$ looks decent.

Do I really need it? Better off renting a dually or a pickup truck from Uhaul.

Save the 17k....

I like my Denali too much to get rid of it. 3 vehicls is too much...for now

 

[norcalboon]

I had a 2005 Yukon XL 1500 2WD when we first purchased our 28ft 5,500lb (dry) 6,700lb (loaded) TT and and it was not a fun towing experience on any grade. Seemed to do fine on flat ground but any hill and we were down to 25-35MPH with the trans trying to drop into first. Had to replace rear axles during 2nd year. Had a TruCool 40K on it and temps stayed in acceptable range.

Looked for a 2500 to replace it but eventually settled on a 2012 Denali XL with tow package a couple years ago. I put a TruCool 40K on it and no other mods and it has been a very capable TV, although the rear axle is still the weak point IMO and my family is still growing (3 kids plus a dog). The 6 spd transmission helps and the 6.2L (great motor, minus AFM) can generally hold speed up most grades. It doubles as my wife's DD and she loves it. If we had to continue to use it to tow I think it would be fine but I'd expect the rear axle, autoride shocks or trans to wear prematurely, plus the gear ratio is still only 3.42 and it's AWD. The Integrated Trailer Brake and auto leveling is nice. But I kept looking for a 2500 I could use as our main tow rig.

Finally in January I found a low mileage 2005 GMC Yukon XL 2500 4WD with the 6.0L and 4.10 rear axle that wasn't exorbitantly priced so I pulled the trigger on it, had some significant maintenance completed and we've made one trip of a couple hundred miles and it did FANTASTIC. Maintains speed up grades with no problem, feels steadier and more solid all the way around. SO far I'm running it stock, did upsize (slightly) tires to 265/75/16 (from 245) and added Timbren jounce stops in the rear.

 

[avalonandl]

I had a 2005 Yukon XL 1500 2WD when we first purchased our 28ft 5,500lb (dry) 6,700lb (loaded) TT and and it was not a fun towing experience on any grade. Seemed to do fine on flat ground but any hill and we were down to 25-35MPH with the trans trying to drop into first. Had to replace rear axles during 2nd year. Had a TruCool 40K on it and temps stayed in acceptable range.


Finally in January I found a low mileage 2005 GMC Yukon XL 2500 4WD with the 6.0L and 4.10 rear axle that wasn't exorbitantly priced so I pulled the trigger on it, had some significant maintenance completed and we've made one trip of a couple hundred miles and it did FANTASTIC. Maintains speed up grades with no problem, feels steadier and more solid all the way around. SO far I'm running it stock, did upsize (slightly) tires to 265/75/16 (from 245) and added Timbren jounce stops in the rear.

View attachment 272505 View attachment 272506 View attachment 272507

The 6.0 and 410 axles are a great match for your needs. The 6.0 will rev and has good low end torque. I loved my 2004 Avalanche 2500 with the 8.1 and 410 axles. It would tow ANYTHING...all the way to the gas station.

 

[EvergreenZ71]

Ditto ...
2002 Tahoe towing way too big of a trailer: actually did fine (except one hill on US1 in Oregon) including I90 on Snoqualmie Pass. That one trip caused me to buy the 1992 2500 Suburban that was a relative dream even before the transmission cooler was installed.

But I did eventually bend the axle on the Tahoe (2 trips as a back up tower) and I’m sure that’s what also killed the transmission.

Personally I agree all of the 1500 are under supported for brakes & suspension, especially the Suburbans & XLs and I wish GM would just align long wheelbase to 2500 (and keep fleet 3500 an option) while short wheelbase was 1500.

 

[swathdiver]

I posted some questions about a 2008 2500. I guess I need to know if I really need a 2500.
The main reason for my thinking I need a 2500 is that I have a trailer that has a MAX GVRW of 8000lbs.
Dry it is 6500lbs.
From what I have read the 1500 can haul 8000lbs, and the 2500 can haul 9600lbs.
I know it would be nice to have the 2500, but I never fully load the trailer and I tow it maybe 3 times a year max.
There are a lot more options for a 1500 Suburban/Yukon LX than 2500s.
I just want to be sure that I need to spend the extra money before I do.

3 times a year, for how many miles and over what terrain? If you were say just running 4-5 hours on flat lands then stick with the 1500s.

Caution, not all trucks are equipped to tow 8,000 pounds, you must check the RPO sheet and see what options it has. More than a few guys on here have bought trucks intending to tow 8K pounds and found out their new rig was only rated for 5K because it lacked the additional cooling feature and or gearing.

 

[Oldmopars]

3 times a year, for how many miles and over what terrain? If you were say just running 4-5 hours on flat lands then stick with the 1500s.

Caution, not all trucks are equipped to tow 8,000 pounds, you must check the RPO sheet and see what options it has. More than a few guys on here have bought trucks intending to tow 8K pounds and found out their new rig was only rated for 5K because it lacked the additional cooling feature and or gearing.

Well, thanks for the replies. I have decided to get a 2500. I found a 2008 6.0L 2500 Suburban 4x4.
With all the advice I got here, I decided I would just be better off getting the 2500. I go to get it in the morning.
I know I will love it, I just hate to spend the money.
Thank you everyone for the information.

 

[petethepug]

You paid up front brother. The rest is smooth sailing. My buddy with a ‘13 3500 Silverado Duramax has a Firestone bag kit at the rear. The previous owner used to tow a monster 5th wheel with it. The bags leveled it perfectly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[swathdiver]

Well, thanks for the replies. I have decided to get a 2500. I found a 2008 6.0L 2500 Suburban 4x4.
With all the advice I got here, I decided I would just be better off getting the 2500. I go to get it in the morning.
I know I will love it, I just hate to spend the money.
Thank you everyone for the information.

Awesome! Be sure to post up some photos for us to drool over!

 

[avalonandl]

As I said before, I was originally looking for a 2500 Sub./Yukon but couldn't find a decent one. They really are extremely capable.

 

[Oldmopars]

I will post more pictures soon, but for now, here is the dealer ad. https://www.lot99llc.com/vehicle-de...-seating-suv-d3b50f150c60e046a5d6fcfa5e6dba7f