CruelJung
Member
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2022
- Posts
- 49
- Reaction score
- 59
I have been nursing a case of runaway coolant for quite some time, only dabbling in inspection beyond ruling out a blown head gasket (via oil inspection and, more recently, analysis) and checking for easily found leaks. It hasn't been a heavy leak, just maybe 1/2 to an inch below the 'full when cold' line. I think I noticed some orange droplets nestled into crevices around the water pump early on, but I hardly knew what I was looking at in an engine bay at that time and had plenty of other concerns that I hardly understood. This is not to mention that my water pump/thermostat was new as of 2021.
At any rate, the leak has accelerated to the point of forming a puddle under the vehicle and I have traced it to the back of the water pump pulley with some flashlight/mirror observation. That part (19434033) is on order from GM Parts Direct, which I understand to include gaskets and a new thermostat/housing.
Ultimately, the reason I am posting about this is that I am considering if I should rebuild all my coolant lines in tandem with the water pump replacement. By this, I mean:
Preemptive Replacement of All or Certain Coolant Hoses/Line (i.e., rear lines?)
-Should I bother if they are not leaking?
-If I do, should they be AC Delco, Genuine GM, or another brand?
-Would a performance silicone kit be a worthwhile longevity upgrade or a problematic, aesthetic waste of money? (I have read they last longer than rubber, but can be prone to leaking at connection points)
Preemptive Replacement/Upgrading of Coolant Hose Connections
-I am somewhat, vaguely aware of Dorman aluminum connectors for the firewall hose junctions, and possibly have one currently, due to one bursting a few years ago. I will have to verify, as my mechanic did this work and I haven't considered it again until the recent leak trace.
-Are there upgrades for other problematic connection points I can upgrade, if I go this route?
Is there a benefit to doing any of the above while changing the water pump, or can I just as easily/efficiently do all of this after the fact?
Some Other Wild Ideas
I have practically ruled it out at this point, but I was considering replacing the timing chain (current mileage is 205,000) and the gaskets/seals on my timing chain cover and oil pan gasket (because my oil pan gasket is leaking) while doing the water pump job. This is because I am tentatively planning to supercharge this engine eventually, but what I have settled on--and perhaps some of you can weigh in on this--is to wait until the next water pump failure or upwards to 50,000 miles before doing the timing chain/guide (possibly cam swap of some kind), oil pan gasket (and more, while I am down there), in addition to any other deep engine work prior to supercharging. I also want to get the maximum life out of my current set-up before tearing everything down, as well as to be much more knowledgeable and comfortable with various repairs/maintenance before turning my reliable daily into a sleeper.
I do tend to drive fast on highways and run a 93 performance (DiabloSport) tune in addition to an absent speed governor, but I keep the RPMs under 2k until the engine is at operating temperature so I would like to believe I am not stressing the engine too hard--this in conjunction with 5k mile oil/filter change intervals with Amsoil Signature.
All this is to say, I am trying to arc my way to forced induction and give myself smaller, complementing upgrades along the way.
If anyone can help with my questions or weigh in on any of this, I would greatly appreciate it!
At any rate, the leak has accelerated to the point of forming a puddle under the vehicle and I have traced it to the back of the water pump pulley with some flashlight/mirror observation. That part (19434033) is on order from GM Parts Direct, which I understand to include gaskets and a new thermostat/housing.
Ultimately, the reason I am posting about this is that I am considering if I should rebuild all my coolant lines in tandem with the water pump replacement. By this, I mean:
Preemptive Replacement of All or Certain Coolant Hoses/Line (i.e., rear lines?)
-Should I bother if they are not leaking?
-If I do, should they be AC Delco, Genuine GM, or another brand?
-Would a performance silicone kit be a worthwhile longevity upgrade or a problematic, aesthetic waste of money? (I have read they last longer than rubber, but can be prone to leaking at connection points)
Preemptive Replacement/Upgrading of Coolant Hose Connections
-I am somewhat, vaguely aware of Dorman aluminum connectors for the firewall hose junctions, and possibly have one currently, due to one bursting a few years ago. I will have to verify, as my mechanic did this work and I haven't considered it again until the recent leak trace.
-Are there upgrades for other problematic connection points I can upgrade, if I go this route?
Is there a benefit to doing any of the above while changing the water pump, or can I just as easily/efficiently do all of this after the fact?
Some Other Wild Ideas
I have practically ruled it out at this point, but I was considering replacing the timing chain (current mileage is 205,000) and the gaskets/seals on my timing chain cover and oil pan gasket (because my oil pan gasket is leaking) while doing the water pump job. This is because I am tentatively planning to supercharge this engine eventually, but what I have settled on--and perhaps some of you can weigh in on this--is to wait until the next water pump failure or upwards to 50,000 miles before doing the timing chain/guide (possibly cam swap of some kind), oil pan gasket (and more, while I am down there), in addition to any other deep engine work prior to supercharging. I also want to get the maximum life out of my current set-up before tearing everything down, as well as to be much more knowledgeable and comfortable with various repairs/maintenance before turning my reliable daily into a sleeper.
I do tend to drive fast on highways and run a 93 performance (DiabloSport) tune in addition to an absent speed governor, but I keep the RPMs under 2k until the engine is at operating temperature so I would like to believe I am not stressing the engine too hard--this in conjunction with 5k mile oil/filter change intervals with Amsoil Signature.
All this is to say, I am trying to arc my way to forced induction and give myself smaller, complementing upgrades along the way.
If anyone can help with my questions or weigh in on any of this, I would greatly appreciate it!
