I have a 2018 Yukon XL Denali with the 6.2l. I recently purchased it and am new to the platform. I have read the AFM system is problematic and is best to delete it. There is nothing wrong with the vehicle currently. Can I get one of those tuners that turns it off and call it good? Or do I need to pull out the AFM lifters and associated bits? I would like a hand held tuner that I can plug in, make the changes, and unplug it. I will use the truck for hauling a trailer on road trips, so if the tuner has functionality to improve towing that would be a plus. Thanks for the help all.
Delete AFM
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MobileHomie
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The simple answer is yes, you can buy a dongle that plugs into the diagnostic port under the dash and disable cylinder deactivation.
I did this in 2020 when I bought my '17 Yukon used with 32,000 miles.
The real answer is in order to completely delete the DOD, VVT is to change camshaft, lifters and a laundry list of other parts including oil pump, to make it all work, followed by a tune.
I just dropped my Yukon Denali off yesterday to a performance shop to have this done.
There are DIY guys out there that may be able to help more.
I did this in 2020 when I bought my '17 Yukon used with 32,000 miles.
The real answer is in order to completely delete the DOD, VVT is to change camshaft, lifters and a laundry list of other parts including oil pump, to make it all work, followed by a tune.
I just dropped my Yukon Denali off yesterday to a performance shop to have this done.
There are DIY guys out there that may be able to help more.
I put a RANGE Device in my 2017 Denali when it was 2 years old at 40k. Now has 130k and has been great. Keep your oil clean as well. 5k or less with 5w-30 is what I use. I speculate that the thinner oil used to make better CAFE numbers isn't really all that great in the long run.
I did a mechanical AFM delete on my 2012 and took advantage of the opportunity to put a slightly bigger cam in it worth around 50hp and tq for better towing performance. It's made a huge difference in how much I enjoy driving the truck. Parts cost was around $1500. If/when I buy a newer rig, I will do the same thing again.
Curious if you'd be able to share what it cost you to have a shop do the mechanical side of the delete?
MobileHomie
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I had the work done at a performance shop. Stage 1 BTR camshaft, springs, lifters, oil pump and a list of smaller items were replaced. All told just over $6,000 for parts and labor. They removed the engine from the vehicle, the tune was done on a dyno.
natureclone
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Which cam did you use? Did it require a tune?
It’s a Cam Motion Stage 2 truck cam. The ‘high-lift’ version. Works well with BTR beehive springs.
And yes, it did require a tune. I used Blackbear. I used their device to log a specified drive cycle before I did the work, then sent them the cam specs. They sent me back a tune that would get me up and running, and then I used their device to log a new drive cycle and they sent me back the finished/complete tune for the cam.
natureclone
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Thanks for that info!
CMoore711
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You will hear many different experiences from different owners.
Is it electrical or mechanical?
The PCM is set up or "tuned" from the factory settings to allow the AFM system to function based a certain set of parameters and inputs experienced while driving to allow the PCM to decide when its ok to run on less than all 8 cylinders, then shutting down half of them and going into 4 cylinder mode to increase gas mileage. Have there been any owners you've heard of saying "Man somethings wrong with my AFM system; It always stays in V8 mode and never goes into 4 cylinder mode?" (or visa versa). How many owners are going to the dealership service department reporting issues of the AFM system not activating or functioning? None that I am aware of... Hell I bet over 60% of the owners don't even know it's happening and just drive around. The point is; Electronically the system works and functions as it should.
What is the weakness and failure of the AFM system? Every failure is always related to the AFM lifters and the VLOM which are both mechanical parts in the engine.
Simply deactivating the AFM system electronically via a tune or Range type device is not a long-term permanent solution. Is it better than doing nothing? Yes. For some owners maybe it is all that is needed, and for other's it's not. Not everyone own's their vehicles for 100K+ miles. There are other variables too such as oil change intervals and driving habits that can contribute to varying individual experiences. It really is a dice roll.
My personal experience in my '15 Yukon XL Denali with 6.2 L86 and 8 speed transmission:
Purchased CPO with 24K miles
Installed Range AFM dissabler device at 32K miles.
Oil changed every 3-4K miles with Mobile 1 or Amsoil Signature.
Had a failed AFM lifter at 78K miles.
Is it electrical or mechanical?
The PCM is set up or "tuned" from the factory settings to allow the AFM system to function based a certain set of parameters and inputs experienced while driving to allow the PCM to decide when its ok to run on less than all 8 cylinders, then shutting down half of them and going into 4 cylinder mode to increase gas mileage. Have there been any owners you've heard of saying "Man somethings wrong with my AFM system; It always stays in V8 mode and never goes into 4 cylinder mode?" (or visa versa). How many owners are going to the dealership service department reporting issues of the AFM system not activating or functioning? None that I am aware of... Hell I bet over 60% of the owners don't even know it's happening and just drive around. The point is; Electronically the system works and functions as it should.
What is the weakness and failure of the AFM system? Every failure is always related to the AFM lifters and the VLOM which are both mechanical parts in the engine.
Simply deactivating the AFM system electronically via a tune or Range type device is not a long-term permanent solution. Is it better than doing nothing? Yes. For some owners maybe it is all that is needed, and for other's it's not. Not everyone own's their vehicles for 100K+ miles. There are other variables too such as oil change intervals and driving habits that can contribute to varying individual experiences. It really is a dice roll.
My personal experience in my '15 Yukon XL Denali with 6.2 L86 and 8 speed transmission:
Purchased CPO with 24K miles
Installed Range AFM dissabler device at 32K miles.
Oil changed every 3-4K miles with Mobile 1 or Amsoil Signature.
Had a failed AFM lifter at 78K miles.
Tyebo185
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You got your answers, but with my experience 2017 Yukon with the 5.3. I purchased a range device to plug into my obd port. Mainly bc I threw an exhaust on and couldn’t stand the sound when dropping to 4 cylinders. I probably did that around 80k miles. Well here we are at 94k miles and guess what lifter failure. So right now I have ordered and waiting for the DOD delete kit from Texas Speed along with stage 1 cam and all the goods that go with that. Figured if I’m in there mine as well get a cam that’s going to add a little extra.
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