Coolant leak question

[Bryan Dennison]

I’ve got a coolant leak from the crossover/bleed pipe right below the throttle body. I’m familiar with my jeeps cooling system but my Tahoe not so much. I’m planning to replace the seals with this set of Fel-Pro seals. This is all I should need right? Any gotchas?

Fel-Pro ES 73027 Water Crossover Mounting Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KHLHRSO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_tqkZBbJBHA1CE

 

[M1Gunner]

Just hit the seals with some silicone spray before install so they don’t tear. There ain’t nothin to fixin that.

 

[Bryan Dennison]

Just hit the seals with some silicone spray before install so they don’t tear. There ain’t nothin to fixin that.

Thanks for the tip! I didn't figure there was much to it but I just wanted to make sure. I also found another small leak from one of the heater hose inlet tee connectors I'm going to have to fix also.

 

[SnowDrifter]

Thanks for the tip! I didn't figure there was much to it but I just wanted to make sure. I also found another small leak from one of the heater hose inlet tee connectors I'm going to have to fix also.

Those need a disconnect tool. Easy job, just need the tool. See: Fuel line quick disconnect tool.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to proactively replace the hoses going to your water pump too if they're original. Plastic pieces, they get brittle after a few years.

 

[915_Tahoe]

JUST MAKE SURE YOU GO OE FACTORY ON THOSE HEATER CONNECTORS. THE AFTERMARKETS DON'T SIT PROPERLY.

 

[Bryan Dennison]

Those need a disconnect tool. Easy job, just need the tool. See: Fuel line quick disconnect tool.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to proactively replace the hoses going to your water pump too if they're original. Plastic pieces, they get brittle after a few years.

I got the disconnect tool but I still ended up having to take a hacksaw blade and cut a slit in each side of the connectors to get them to release. I got everything replaced with OEM parts and no leaks so far! I went ahead and replaced both of the T connectors at the heater core and flushed it while i had the hoses off. I didn't replace the hoses but I did put new quick disconnect ends on both of the hoses. Had I realized the disconnects were brittle and going to break trying to get them out I would have definitely bought new hoses. One of the hoses had a thick black plastic crimp on it and the other had a metal crimp on it. I ended up cutting the black plastic crimp almost all the way through on two sides then used channel locks to break it off. I was then able to get the rest of the disconnect out of the hose and put in the new one. I used wire snips to cut into the metal crimp on the other hose and then I used needle nose pliers to peel it back until I was able to remove it and get the broken disconnect out of it and install the new disconnect. I used a 26MM constant tension clamp on the hose that originally had the black plastic crimp and a 24MM CTC on the hose with the metal crimp. I measured both hoses with a digital caliper after the disconnects had been installed so these clamp sizes were the correct sizes, they weren't just a guess.

The coolant crossover pipe was pretty straightforward however all I replaced was 1 oring on each end and the Fel-Pro kit came with 4 orings and 2 metal tabs the same shape as the ends of the pipe where it screws down. I'm guessing those are used for a different application/make/model?

 

[Bryan Dennison]

JUST MAKE SURE YOU GO OE FACTORY ON THOSE HEATER CONNECTORS. THE AFTERMARKETS DON'T SIT PROPERLY.

Thanks for the heads up! I went with OEM. I learned my lesson with my jeep several years ago.

 

[kbuskill]

Thanks for the heads up! I went with OEM. I learned my lesson with my jeep several years ago.

I realize this is a day late and a dollar short but just thought I would post this in here for next time...

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/billet-t-connectors-for-heater-cores.107406/