Coolant leak question

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Bryan Dennison

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Just hit the seals with some silicone spray before install so they don’t tear. There ain’t nothin to fixin that.

Thanks for the tip! I didn't figure there was much to it but I just wanted to make sure. I also found another small leak from one of the heater hose inlet tee connectors I'm going to have to fix also.
 

SnowDrifter

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Thanks for the tip! I didn't figure there was much to it but I just wanted to make sure. I also found another small leak from one of the heater hose inlet tee connectors I'm going to have to fix also.

Those need a disconnect tool. Easy job, just need the tool. See: Fuel line quick disconnect tool.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to proactively replace the hoses going to your water pump too if they're original. Plastic pieces, they get brittle after a few years.
 
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Bryan Dennison

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Those need a disconnect tool. Easy job, just need the tool. See: Fuel line quick disconnect tool.

Wouldn't be a bad idea to proactively replace the hoses going to your water pump too if they're original. Plastic pieces, they get brittle after a few years.

I got the disconnect tool but I still ended up having to take a hacksaw blade and cut a slit in each side of the connectors to get them to release. I got everything replaced with OEM parts and no leaks so far! I went ahead and replaced both of the T connectors at the heater core and flushed it while i had the hoses off. I didn't replace the hoses but I did put new quick disconnect ends on both of the hoses. Had I realized the disconnects were brittle and going to break trying to get them out I would have definitely bought new hoses. One of the hoses had a thick black plastic crimp on it and the other had a metal crimp on it. I ended up cutting the black plastic crimp almost all the way through on two sides then used channel locks to break it off. I was then able to get the rest of the disconnect out of the hose and put in the new one. I used wire snips to cut into the metal crimp on the other hose and then I used needle nose pliers to peel it back until I was able to remove it and get the broken disconnect out of it and install the new disconnect. I used a 26MM constant tension clamp on the hose that originally had the black plastic crimp and a 24MM CTC on the hose with the metal crimp. I measured both hoses with a digital caliper after the disconnects had been installed so these clamp sizes were the correct sizes, they weren't just a guess.

The coolant crossover pipe was pretty straightforward however all I replaced was 1 oring on each end and the Fel-Pro kit came with 4 orings and 2 metal tabs the same shape as the ends of the pipe where it screws down. I'm guessing those are used for a different application/make/model?
 

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