Converting my Air Ride to Regular Suspension?

[Reyestrec]

I want to convert my 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe LTZ air ride suspension to regular suspension. What is the best way to go about doing this? Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Again.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I assume that you are referring to removing the Z55 or Z95 OEM RPO code active suspension, so I'll respond with that assumption. If I am wrong in my assumption, then the content below may not be relevant to you.

Well, first of all, I think that is the wrong way to go, as I've had both active and passive suspensions on my truck, and the OEM active suspension is far superior, IMO. But, in full transparency, lots of folks have converted to a passive system and are happy with it. Bilstein shocks are popular here for a passive suspension.

You will need to buy four 3-5 Ohm 50 watt resistors, one for each shock, and solder them across the 2 Wires that connect to the shocks. I suggest doing this in a way that you don't have to cut off the connectors, or at least don't throw them away, just in case that you want to convert back to OEM in the future. This will eliminate the dash warning for the air ride suspension error. These resistors can be purchased on Amazon, by searching for air ride delete resistors. If you want to spend the money, they have kits available which simply plug into your existing electrical connectors, thus eliminating the need for cutting and soldering.

For the front struts, you'll need to disassemble the strut and replace the central shock. I strongly suggest that you take the front struts to a local shop with a large spring compressor and let them disassembly/change/reassemble the struts for you, as removing the spring can be dangerous without the proper spring compressor. But, in full transparency, folks have done this work with 'normal' car spring compressors and survived the operation, so the choice is yours.

For the rear shocks, you'll need to replace the springs with non-air ride springs, since the OEM rear suspension depends on the shock's air bladders to help support the weight of the rear of the truck. These stronger replacement springs can be GM (for the same truck without the air ride feature) or compatible aftermarket springs. When bolting up the top of the shock, be careful that you do not disturb the electrical connector on top of the frame nearby, as this is a common issue when performing in this work.

Locate the air compressor's fuse in your engine bay fuse box, and remove it, so that the air compressor is no longer active.

If I've missed anything, other folks will chime in.

 

[SpareParts]

If you are going to do the work your self, I would suggest this style spring compressor.
I have it and can say for certain it is the safest way a home diy guy can do it without jumping up to a full blown standing strut tool.

https://www.amazon.com/BILITOOLS-2-Piece-Compressor-Macpherson-Load-2645LB/dp/B09PYR6NVF/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2VA1CAUCM0SS7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.4ik4eQp3HGTBWvpMBQfUIoblQAscLPQSuYq1TlXL31KmX5WpUQ7BPotuEKxQXI0I-4DUgWwHNQ23n1v46vBRjHNaVhmc2N8DTTx8QTQbvxqeT6CT6J2noUnT05qT1T7XAsbBIj76ecn2IivV7r17YrpH0KPiw_tmIJJrp0XO0TOXN60YDWuXDDpOsiTCwEmo71hLYDyiPdxJLB53LuC43qoBDq4f8rpRbL4rb-vRYwv2IhBDRTUma85VjtTuSL2SOtb2AFSweH5Vs0wLndicycV1hH-mp1PsWwLCVnigBts.VDVLwKuBjjMRDrCI_acWlJrut1GwCdOZrc-vAvZwRdo&dib_tag=se&keywords=strut%2Bspring%2Bcompressor&qid=1758986304&sprefix=strut%2Bspring%2Bcompresso%2Caps%2C213&sr=8-10&th=1

 

[SpareParts]

Also, Do not use an impact gun on the top nut. Use wrenches.
If you use an impact gun the rod can unscrew from inside the strut and blow apart.

 

[Reyestrec]

I assume that you are referring to removing the Z55 or Z95 OEM RPO code active suspension, so I'll respond with that assumption. If I am wrong in my assumption, then the content below may not be relevant to you.

Well, first of all, I think that is the wrong way to go, as I've had both active and passive suspensions on my truck, and the OEM active suspension is far superior, IMO. But, in full transparency, lots of folks have converted to a passive system and are happy with it. Bilstein shocks are popular here for a passive suspension.

You will need to buy four 3-5 Ohm 50 watt resistors, one for each shock, and solder them across the 2 Wires that connect to the shocks. I suggest doing this in a way that you don't have to cut off the connectors, or at least don't throw them away, just in case that you want to convert back to OEM in the future. This will eliminate the dash warning for the air ride suspension error. These resistors can be purchased on Amazon, by searching for air ride delete resistors. If you want to spend the money, they have kits available which simply plug into your existing electrical connectors, thus eliminating the need for cutting and soldering.

For the front struts, you'll need to disassemble the strut and replace the central shock. I strongly suggest that you take the front struts to a local shop with a large spring compressor and let them disassembly/change/reassemble the struts for you, as removing the spring can be dangerous without the proper spring compressor. But, in full transparency, folks have done this work with 'normal' car spring compressors and survived the operation, so the choice is yours.

For the rear shocks, you'll need to replace the springs with non-air ride springs, since the OEM rear suspension depends on the shock's air bladders to help support the weight of the rear of the truck. These stronger replacement springs can be GM (for the same truck without the air ride feature) or compatible aftermarket springs. When bolting up the top of the shock, be careful that you do not disturb the electrical connector on top of the frame nearby, as this is a common issue when performing in this work.

Locate the air compressor's fuse in your engine bay fuse box, so that the air compressor is no longer active.

If I've missed anything, other folks will chime in.

No you’re right I do have that same system. I just wanted to know the pros and cons of both systems.

 

[mikeyss]

Also, Do not use an impact gun on the top nut. Use wrenches.
If you use an impact gun the rod can unscrew from inside the strut and blow apart.

I learned this lesson the hard way and ruined a new shock! Definitely don't use an impact gun on that nut.

 

[BMPNUGLS]

You might look into Arnott shocks/struts - for my 16 Denali XL they make passive replacements (with built in resistors to fool the system) which gets rid of the magneride yet keeps the self leveling air system in the rear. I went with these all the way around and couldn’t be happier! I swear the Denali rides better than it ever did …even brand new.

 

[mike singleton]

I want to convert my 2011 Chevrolet Tahoe LTZ air ride suspension to regular suspension. What is the best way to go about doing this? Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Again.

Garcia is spoke on with his comments. I've been through this many times and if it's the expense that you're concerned about, you're right to say that the dealers are crazy. Eight months ago, replaced my rear level ride shocks on my 2011 chev sub LTZ for new ones off EBAY for $78. You should also consider buying the aftermarket compressor and replacing that at the same time for about $200. As far as the front shocks are concerned I replaced those also with passive shocks (bypass sensor) and they work great. Hope that this helps.: YUKON2IT