Complete front end replacement/upgrade

[Peezer123]

Looking to upgrade everything front end suspension wise, what all will I need and who’s the best company to use? It’s. 2005’ 2wd Tahoe 5.3

 

[SuperOldSchool]

Wrong year section

 

[Doubeleive]

Looking to upgrade everything front end suspension wise, what all will I need and who’s the best company to use? It’s. 2005’ 2wd Tahoe 5.3

this is basically everything you need, great deal for the set, I have not heard any complaints, I guess it can really depend on what your looking to do and how much you want to spend.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/13pc-Front-Upper-Control-Arm-Lower-Ball-Joint-Tierod-Pitman-Idler-Arm-6Lug/152043044765?fits=Year:2005|Model:Tahoe&hash=item236678bf9d:g:vPkAAOSwiDFYQevv

just note the following
**Lower Ball Joints Fit STEEL Control Arms ONLY**
**PITMAN ARM IS 4 GROOVE**

 

[adriver]

Looking to upgrade everything front end suspension wise, what all will I need and who’s the best company to use? It’s. 2005’ 2wd Tahoe 5.3

This is relative. While you already are doing this, do you want to change your height? Do you want a firmer better handling ride? Do you want to upgrade for the long term? Are you on a budget?

Now I'm not trying to knock off detroitaxle, because frankly I don't know enough about them. I don't know if I am influenced by marketing, but I've always considered Moog, and Mevotech some of the better, more well-known companies. I know Moog has 3 different levels for most parts. There top of the line part is a redesign for a factory part. They may have found an easier way to install the part, fixed a weak point, or found a way for it to work better (such as better way to install a grease fitting). I also like energy suspension bushings.

Are you talking shocks too? Are you looking for a serious drop while you are doing this, with control arms, or steering knuckles? Is this a basic factory rebuild, are you going full out custom setup with coilovers, or something in between?

We have several vendors who can help, not sure how outdated there posts are. I like rockauto.com

 

[Bombsquad85]

I will speak from experience with both moog /ac delco parts and the cheap all in one kit.

I got a cheap all in one set from 1aauto for my Tahoe and had to replace tierods in about 6-9 months.

On my Denali I got all moog and ac delco parts along with tbss drop kit and new wheel hubs

The quality in parts is absolutely noticeable but so is the price. I spent upwards to 1500 on my Denali overhaul vs about 200 on the Tahoe. But the yukon is a much better ride and I dropped it and swapped shocks

 

[adriver]

I will speak from experience with both moog /ac delco parts and the cheap all in one kit.

I got a cheap all in one set from 1aauto for my Tahoe and had to replace tierods in about 6-9 months.

On my Denali I got all moog and ac delco parts along with tbss drop kit and new wheel hubs

The quality in parts is absolutely noticeable but so is the price. I spent upwards to 1500 on my Denali overhaul vs about 200 on the Tahoe. But the yukon is a much better ride and I dropped it and swapped shocks

Ive always looked at it as; With anything automotive, you are probably paying twice as much for a 10% better product, but that 10% could mean the difference between quick junk and a lifetime.

 

[Bombsquad85]

Ive always looked at it as; With anything automotive, you are probably paying twice as much for a 10% better product, but that 10% could mean the difference between quick junk and a lifetime.

Right!.... I think. Anyways I go for the tried and true. I'm not doing an all in 1 kit for 150ish it's not worth it to me knowing I'll have to do the job again.. I remember what the 1aauto parts looked like and when I got the moog and ac delco parts I had to double check to make sure I got the right parts and not parts for a HD truck or something. The quality and weight were night and day. I feel much more confident driving this stuff than the cheaper stuff

 

[Peezer123]

Right!.... I think. Anyways I go for the tried and true. I'm not doing an all in 1 kit for 150ish it's not worth it to me knowing I'll have to do the job again.. I remember what the 1aauto parts looked like and when I got the moog and ac delco parts I had to double check to make sure I got the right parts and not parts for a HD truck or something. The quality and weight were night and day. I feel much more confident driving this stuff than the cheaper stuff

 

[Peezer123]

I’m going to go with the moog, would you guys suggest getting the complete Control arms or just get the kit and replace ball joints etc..?

 

[Bombsquad85]

I’m going to go with the moog, would you guys suggest getting the complete Control arms or just get the kit and replace ball joints etc..?

Complete control arms. Pretty easy and it can't hurt to replace those bushings. And get an alignment.

Use ac delco for pitman arm and idler arm/bracket if you're doing those

 

[SnowDrifter]

Can't say I recommend moog. Put them on my car. Took 20k miles to "break in"

Inner, outer ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm, and bracket. The stuff was so tight from the factory it was giving me all sorts of weird steering phenomena. No/little return to center, bump steer when there was a little bit of pressure on the steering wheel and the components flexed, memory steer, and overall a bit of a dog to steer on the freeway - couldn't just guide the wheel, I had to crank it a bit to get enough tension in the components to move. Then they'd stay more or less stuck in that position until I had to make my next correction.

Installed them at 114k. Now it drives as expected at 138k

 

[Bombsquad85]

Can't say I recommend moog. Put them on my car. Took 20k miles to "break in"

Inner, outer ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm, and bracket. The stuff was so tight from the factory it was giving me all sorts of weird steering phenomena. No/little return to center, bump steer when there was a little bit of pressure on the steering wheel and the components flexed, memory steer, and overall a bit of a dog to steer on the freeway - couldn't just guide the wheel, I had to crank it a bit to get enough tension in the components to move. Then they'd stay more or less stuck in that position until I had to make my next correction.

Installed them at 114k. Now it drives as expected at 138k

Interesting. I didn't have any of those issues with my moog parts did you go with problem solvers? Or another moog line up?

 

[SnowDrifter]

Interesting. I didn't have any of those issues with my moog parts did you go with problem solvers? Or another moog line up?

Problem solver. Purchased Oct '16 from rock auto

 

[Erickk120]

Can't say I recommend moog. Put them on my car. Took 20k miles to "break in"

Inner, outer ball joints, pitman arm, idler arm, and bracket. The stuff was so tight from the factory it was giving me all sorts of weird steering phenomena. No/little return to center, bump steer when there was a little bit of pressure on the steering wheel and the components flexed, memory steer, and overall a bit of a dog to steer on the freeway - couldn't just guide the wheel, I had to crank it a bit to get enough tension in the components to move. Then they'd stay more or less stuck in that position until I had to make my next correction.

Installed them at 114k. Now it drives as expected at 138k

Wished you would have told me that earlier!!! I went with all MOOG except my pitman arm, I went with a AC delco Pro one, since I heard bad things about installing the MOOG one, I did my entire front end and recently even UCA bushings, which were a pain in the ass to remove and install even using a 12 ton press, broke so many used pinion and carrier bearing races since those fit perfectly to press and remove them.I'm experiencing a bit of that tightness you are referring to, when I make a turn the wheel comes back except I have to straighten out the last 1 inch or so, and the steering feels tight as hell that I can feel the wear in my steering box in my steering wheel before it actually starts turning, for shocks I bought some basic Monroe Reflex monotubes 55 dollars each, and they are pretty stiff. I hope they break in well as the ride is a little somewhat stiff, not like the cloud I used to sit on before but those shocks were shot.

AMAZON has good deals in MOOG parts, I got all my stuff there fairly cheap considering a shop would have charged upwards of 1k for the labor and who knows what they would have installed. Only con is that AMAZON doesn't honor MOOG warranties, neither will MOOG help you if something goes wrong, unless something arrived dead or missing.

Honestly, MOOG problem solvers or AC DELCO PRO line Raybestos PRO FORGED are pretty good quality stuff, anything else I would have second thoughts.

The total was $540.00 for me that includes new camber caster kits, bushings, shocks, I even included a 36mm socket and T-55 TORX bit for the brakes and every single joint that is in the front, Only thing left untouched in the front are the Lower control arm bushings.

 

[SnowDrifter]

FWIW I noticed a small improvement when I switched from the bulk grease I had laying around to a quality, high moly chassis grease.

Currently using Amsoil Synthetic Polymeric Off-Road Grease, NLGI #2, Other greases will perform well, this is just the one I'm using.

It's offered in 2 viscosities. #1 and #2. #2 is what you'd typically associate with grease, about like peanut butter. #1 is thinner and more suitable for things like wheel bearings, or u joints - things that move at higher speed.

While on the subject of grease... Be mindful of what you use on your undercarriage. Lithium soap type grease washes out fairly easily.

 

[Bombsquad85]

FWIW I noticed a small improvement when I switched from the bulk grease I had laying around to a quality, high moly chassis grease.

Currently using Amsoil Synthetic Polymeric Off-Road Grease, NLGI #2, Other greases will perform well, this is just the one I'm using.

It's offered in 2 viscosities. #1 and #2. #2 is what you'd typically associate with grease, about like peanut butter. #1 is thinner and more suitable for things like wheel bearings, or u joints - things that move at higher speed.

While on the subject of grease... Be mindful of what you use on your undercarriage. Lithium soap type grease washes out fairly easily.

I used mobile 1 red grease in all of mine. Idk if th as ts good or not but that's what was recommended to me at the parts store... if I were to change out to a different grease how do you extract all the other grease?

 

[SnowDrifter]

The parts that need grease are flushed clean in a couple pumps, the rest just exists in the boot. Don't do anything different, just change products and grease as normal

 

[Freefallin02]

My 02 I just picked up needs some suspension work. I will stay tuned to this thread for sure.