CEL came on yesterday, 2006 ODB trouble codes

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Donal

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Sure. Did you try one of the AL plates and it didn't work or do you need the OEM plate for some other reason? You don't have to mention the reason I'm curious because if I send you the OEM plate and then need it back etc etc.
The one on your engine has the boss for a manual gage line. None of the plates leak with correct gasket in good condition.
 
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2006Tahoe2WD

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Someone suggested one of the AL machined plate setups. This showed up today.
I'll install when it stops raining.

Plate0.jpg
Plate1.jpg
Plate1.jpg
 
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2006Tahoe2WD

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Someone suggested one of the AL machined plate setups. This showed up today.
I'll install when it stops raining.

View attachment 421697View attachment 421698View attachment 421698

I took the OEM plate off today. Noticed a nick in the gasket, maybe that is why the leak.
I installed the new billet AL plate but used the original bolts. The supplied bolts/screws had 1/2 the threads. Not good. I'm also not sure about the volume of the cavity for the O-ring but it went together and felt like it bolted flat. Considering the short bolts I would not give this kit a high grade.
 
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2006Tahoe2WD

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The one on your engine has the boss for a manual gage line. None of the plates leak with correct gasket in good condition.
I'm now thinking these AL aftermarket plates might affect oil flow in a negative way. As you suggest a new gasket using the existing stock part is probably what I will do.
 
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2006Tahoe2WD

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Appreciate the update. Keep 'em coming!
After replacing the purge and vent valves with OEM, I had a different thought regarding the purge/seal test. Why does the purge to go 10% and vent closed during the "test". I think this could be that if the leak is not more than 10% purge then the leak is small enough to pass the test. This way the EMU "measures" the leak. I'm still waiting for the evap drive cycle to complete or reset the trouble code.
 

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After the "seal" action neither valve should be open. Are you saying that the scan tool is commanding the purge valve to open 10% after the seal?

During the "purge" you should be able to ramp up the purge suction by 10% at a time. The higher that percentage is, the rougher the engine will run because it's (trying to) pull a vacuum on a closed system. But once the purge is closed (by commanding the seal) it should go to 0%.
 
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2006Tahoe2WD

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After the "seal" action neither valve should be open. Are you saying that the scan tool is commanding the purge valve to open 10% after the seal?

During the "purge" you should be able to ramp up the purge suction by 10% at a time. The higher that percentage is, the rougher the engine will run because it's (trying to) pull a vacuum on a closed system. But once the purge is closed (by commanding the seal) it should go to 0%.
As you say - during the "purge" the vent closes and the purge command goes to 10%. If you press "increase" the purge command goes to 20% etc. etc.... the vacuum goes up and may get too high and the test will kick you out. Or, while this is happening you hit the "seal" button and I was thinking the purge would be commanded to zero and the ECU would watch along with the viewer how fast the vacuum returns to zero. But the purge valve only returns to 10%, it doesn't go to zero command. I originally thought this was a bug - but maybe it isn't as explained in previous post. I tried an experiment - I confirmed the 10% by using a stethoscope and then I forced the purge command to zero by unplugging it. The vacuum held pretty well. So this leaves me wondering if it is a bug or intentional.
 
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2006Tahoe2WD

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After the "seal" action neither valve should be open. Are you saying that the scan tool is commanding the purge valve to open 10% after the seal?

During the "purge" you should be able to ramp up the purge suction by 10% at a time. The higher that percentage is, the rougher the engine will run because it's (trying to) pull a vacuum on a closed system. But once the purge is closed (by commanding the seal) it should go to 0%.

More on this - What does a purge/seal test do?
I found an Autel video on Youtube and when the guy hit "seal" the purge valve went to zero.
 
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2006Tahoe2WD

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This guy is good and recommend by other YouTube mechanics as it relates to EVAP.
I think this confirms that the purge valve should go to zero when "sealing".
My theory to that Foxwell might be doing something valid was incorrect.
So, IMHO Foxwell has a bug or this is some sort of pilot error.
 
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2006Tahoe2WD

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Fless

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This guy is good and recommend by other YouTube mechanics as it relates to EVAP.
I think this confirms that the purge valve should go to zero when "sealing".
My theory to that Foxwell might be doing something valid was incorrect.
So, IMHO Foxwell has a bug or this is some sort of pilot error.

Yes, Mike's videos are good and he shows how it's done. I have to think that the Foxwell procedure seems to have a flaw.
 

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More on this - What does a purge/seal test do?

Essentially it tests how tight the evap system is.

First, it closes the evap system (including the vent valve, fuel tank, canister, evap lines, etc.) except for the purge valve on the engine. With the engine running the purge valve opens to allow engine vacuum to draw down the pressure (pull a vacuum) on the closed system.

At that point a system without big leaks should cause the fuel tank (or system) pressure sensor to sense the pressure change (going negative as vacuum) and report it to the engine computer, and vacuum should continue to build.

Once the purge valve is commanded to "seal," the entire system should be closed, and only a small bit of vacuum decay should happen over a little time. The changes to the negative system pressure (e.g., decreasing vacuum) should be reported by the fuel tank pressure sensor.
 
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2006Tahoe2WD

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Essentially it tests how tight the evap system is.

First, it closes the evap system (including the vent valve, fuel tank, canister, evap lines, etc.) except for the purge valve on the engine. With the engine running the purge valve opens to allow engine vacuum to draw down the pressure (pull a vacuum) on the closed system.

At that point a system without big leaks should cause the fuel tank (or system) pressure sensor to sense the pressure change (going negative as vacuum) and report it to the engine computer, and vacuum should continue to build.

Once the purge valve is commanded to "seal," the entire system should be closed, and only a small bit of vacuum decay should happen over a little time. The changes to the negative system pressure (e.g., decreasing vacuum) should be reported by the fuel tank pressure sensor.
Exactly
 
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2006Tahoe2WD

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I put the graphing on for purge and venting and drove around. Pretty much the vent stays open and the purge command goes up and down - maybe going to zero at a stop and idle. I guess this means the a lot of air is pulled through the vent valve and then the charcoal canister most of the time when driving. Also meaning the purge valve (running on PWM) really gets a workout - not a surprise it needs replacing from time to time. When I looked inside the vent valve there was a lot of dirt - I'm thinking adding some additional filtering could be a good idea. The question is - what material to use. E.g. an old sock?
 

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The vent valve has an integrated filter -- are you saying that it doesn't have a filter now? Some of the later years have a longer hose from the valve so the filter can be tucked out of the way a bit.
 
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2006Tahoe2WD

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The vent valve has an integrated filter -- are you saying that it doesn't have a filter now? Some of the later years have a longer hose from the valve so the filter can be tucked out of the way a bit

It has a rather wide open mesh type sponge filter inside the vent valve case. By the looks of it - it won't stop much in the way of fine dirt. I was thinking to improve the filtering by adding something.
 
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2006Tahoe2WD

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If you drive in a dusty environment e.g. on a farm or ranch I would expect a lot of dirt would get pulled into the charcoal cannister. I don't know how much dirt they will take before a code gets tripped.

For general reference... I think our layout is something like this.

evap_theory_03_Chevy.jpg
 
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2006Tahoe2WD

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Minor update. I'm still waiting for the EVAP drive cycle(s) to complete. I don't see any new codes. Today I replaced the brake light switch with a new one (not OEM) it looks like they are NLA.
I used a new 2007+ clip to hold in the switch. That clip has a feature that might help get it off next time around. Until you get the hang of it - getting that clip off is a PITA.

I also took out the new aftermarket AL billet oil block off plate and put the OEM back with a new gasket from the dealer.

Somewhat new subject re. codes. I get a consistent B0229. Recirculation actuator signal. Using my two-way scanner I was able to move the other doors but could not get the recirculation door to move in any of the modes. I could hear faint noises but no movement. The recirculation door is to the right and behind the glove compartment. To get to the actuator it looks like pulling the top of the dash is the way to go. What is the correct pn for this? I have dual climate control with the knobs not levers.
Any thoughts? Thanks guys for helping me along on all this.
 

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