Broken grease fitting

[ls1frc]

Just installed my new Moog lower control arms. I didn't realize the grease fitting came broken on the driver's side.

Can I just screw another fitting in? I was worried some shavings would get in the grease (not sure that even matters)

I can easily pull the axle out again and get a fitting in there. I am kind of a time pinch, do they have any fittings locally anywhere?

Amazon is a week out from another control arm and I don't see this good CK version anywhere locally.

 

[iamdub]

My arms came with the fittings sealed in separate bags so they could'nt get broken off in shipping or installation. Odd that yours were already installed. You can screw another fitting in there, but if the original one was broken off, it's threads may still be in the ball joint cap. You should be able to tell by wiping it clean and inspecting it with a bright light. If they're in it and it's broken flush, You can use an Easy Out extractor if they make them that small. Or, you may be able to stick a small flat head screwdriver in there and wedge it just enough to grip and remove the piece. Most flat head screwdrivers taper out as they leave the tip so you'd want one that does this and has sharp, square edges to help it grip. You don't wanna wedge it too tight and expand the piece tighter against the threads in the BJ cap.

New fittings are available everywhere- Most any decent hardware store should have them, Lowe's, Home Depot, any of the auto parts stores, Tractor Supply or other farm supply store, etc. You may wanna remove the other one to reference the style and thread size.

 

[ls1frc]

The tierods came separate and I had to screw them in.

The upper/lower joints came with them installed, except this one. I am thinking maybe it really was just left off and not broken. I may have overlooked the fitting being in the bag or it was just plain missing.

Ill stop at the parts store tomorrow. Happen to know what size? The tierod required a 7mm socket while the balljoints required 8mm.

 

[iamdub]

Hopefully it wasn't broken off and it just wasn't tight and worked it's way out during shipping.

No, I don't know the size. The wrench size to screw it in could be different from brand to brand, so I wouldn't go by that. It's the thread size that matters. Like I said, just remove the other one and take it with you to compare.

 

[ls1frc]

Good idea on removing the other, I will do that.

 

[ls1frc]

Nope, grease fitting was broken off inside. What a bummer.

Going to just return it and get another control arm. Probably faster than me trying to monkey around with it.

 

[OR VietVet]

What size is the hole for that broken off zerk? I know it would be small but I bet there is something that could spin it out. Hell, even time to make a custom tool.

For instance:

https://www.grainger.com/product/2L...kwcid=AL!2966!3!281698275567!!!g!472545890388!


Auto Zone

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-...VBcpkCh0UkgFSEAQYBCABEgKMUvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Harbor Freight


https://www.harborfreight.com/screw-extractor-set-12-pc-61981.html

 

[ls1frc]

I can try the extractor before putting on the new control arm. Would beat having to get two alignments.

I have to drive the truck as is about 600 miles next week. I hope it doesn't ruin the balljoint. I won't have time to try an extractor before then, unfortunately.

 

[iamdub]

I'd get the extractor set and be done with it. You'll have to remove the axle shaft either way, but at least you won't have to unbolt the control arm, sway bar link or strut. That $9 to Harbor Freight is a lot less work and you'd add another useful tool to your collection.

It should already have grease in it, at least plenty for that 600 mile trip. Just plug the hole to keep dirt and moisture out and it'll be fine. If you do have a needle tip for your grease gun, you could shoot some in there for good measure.

Have you tried using a short flat head or even Philips bit (like the ones that go into those multi-tool screwdrivers) to get the piece out? A small Torx or hex (Allen) bit might be even better. I'd try biting the bit in some vice grips and tapping it in lightly with a hammer then turning it out. Once you get it turning, you might could release the vice grips and back it out all the way with your fingers. It's not very long at all.

 

[OR VietVet]

Also, if you do put 600 miles on that arm they will likely say you broke it some how and there is no return. Brand new pic out of the box could have saved you but they will likely not look at it that way after 600 miles.

Even if you have to drill that out with a small bit that extractor kit should work. It is new enough that the broken off part in the ball joint should unthread right out of there.

 

[ls1frc]

Looks like I have Friday now to attempt this.

I bought a small and large size univeral zerk fitting tool on amazon. I'll also pickup the ez out set as suggested just in case.

I'll give it a shot and report back.

I did get everything bolted up today and it drives like a cloud. Love the ride now.

 

[OR VietVet]

So you already did the grease zerk fitting removal and replacement and all back together and all is great? Good! Lot less hassle than sending for another arm and the wait. Remember, ask here first before giving up and sending back. It would always be your choice of course but sometimes old and young farts here have been there and done that crap. I know I have.

I am really glad that it all came together. Now keep grease in the damn things!

 

[ls1frc]

I was able to get the broken grease fitting out.

Got a new one on there.

I go to put in the grease, and the grease started flying out the bottom. When I did the others, you could see the boot swelling and then eventually some would ooze out.

I am thinking the damn boot is torn and I am going to have to replace the arm anyway. So annoying!

I hope I am wrong. I think I am just gonna roll with it and see what happens. Maybe the boot just got put "into place" from the driving and this is how it's really supposed to work.

 

[OR VietVet]

You can get replacement boots for them instead of the whole arm or another ball joint.

When you replaced the grease fitting did you just push the axle back for room or did you separate the spindle/knuckle from the arm? If you did separate, you could have damaged that boot, like you think it is.


Example only: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2848695&jsn=2285

 

[ls1frc]

I pulled the axle and strut off, did not remove anything on the knuckle. I'll try to snap a pic

 

[OR VietVet]

Don't forget to align the front end when all done. If that boot is split and you did not do it then you got a new part with a split boot and a broken grease fitting. Did you close inspect to make sure was not a pre-installed part?

 

[George B]

Maybe the boot popped off the ball joint???

 

[OR VietVet]

Maybe the boot popped off the ball joint???

Good call. The boot should have a rubber covered metal ring inside there at the lip and you have to push it down, all around, to seat it properly. If you find it that way you will want to be sure that where you push it back down and seat it on the ball joint, that surface lip of joint should be dry and the inner edge of the boot as well, so they GRIP each other. If is greasy then it will slip off again.

 

[ls1frc]

I think it's correct, the other side just didn't ooze the grease out yet. You can see on the right side, there won't be much room for grease.

 

[ls1frc]

I just got carried way on the passenger side, hopefully that tension releases soon. Either that, or the passenger side is a different design.