BREAKING: GM is officially recalling the L87

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vcode

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Headlight bulbs in my 2010 Tahoe were a complete nightmare. My 2019 Yukon is a breeze. Most people in the Midwest are not going to drive to Texas to buy a rust free 20 year old truck when theirs rusts out. Just not going to happen. Plus, how many nice ones are even left anymore?
 

jfoj

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There are a lot of variables here both in how many of these engines were built and how the end user operates and maintains them.

Few of the other above mentioned vehicles weigh in a 6000 lbs and few have the TCM programmed to operate the engine at 1500-1700 RPM at times with 80-100% engine loading.

While 0W20 works, it was never meant for maximum protection, it was meant for fuel economy. I would say there is more to this than faulty parts, incorrect machining and possibly contamination, but at the end of the day I refuse to run 0W20 or lighter oil in anything I own and plan to keep. Each his own. 5W30 has kept my 2005 6.0l running for 275,000 miles at this point. But this vehicle typically operates above 2000 RPM on the highway, a bit different than my 2024 6.2l.

Seems GM must of decided the bearing clearances were a bit on higher side to recommend 0W40 for the 6.2l, this is an oil they run in the same engine in other platforms.
 

OR VietVet

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Headlight bulbs in my 2010 Tahoe were a complete nightmare. My 2019 Yukon is a breeze. Most people in the Midwest are not going to drive to Texas to buy a rust free 20 year old truck when theirs rusts out. Just not going to happen. Plus, how many nice ones are even left anymore?
 

Vinmega

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I bought a 2024 with 14 miles on it.
At 1000 miles I dumped the 0w20 and went with 0w40. One thing I notice is the oil pressure is a bit higher.
 

PPV_2018

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RE: new vs old trucks and what’s better

For the “car guys”, it could go either or both ways. For moms, teens, and guys who have never turned a wrench, they simply have no interest in older vehicles, usually. MONEY notwithstanding, new cars AND old cars cost big bucks in the long run.. vehicle ownership is costly, which is why vehicles are DEPRECIATING assets and not APPRECIATING assets, unless you’ve come across a 50’s/60’s hot rod, classic Ferrari, or a pre DEF diesel silverado.

truth is people who find beauty in older cars and trucks, even cream puffs are the minority, NOT majority. Kind of like me, I’ll walk past the high country, the LTZ, the Escalade, the denali and not even look twice.. but I’ll stare at the PPV. I am the minority. It’s not to say the other, higher trim trucks aren’t nice, it just isn’t what i’d spend my money on.

That being said, I’ve owned GMT400, GMT800 (x2). GMT900 (x3)(Tahoe & Silverado 2x), and now I’m on GMTK2… And I’ve gotta tell ya something most people on this forum wont agree with.. I like the K2 the most.

There are only really two things relevant to this discussion that are factual:

-It’s not every GM truck after GMT900 sucks.. it’s T1’s w/ 6.2L v8’s that suck

-You can get a real nice T1 truck and not spend 80/90/100k… it’s called a ppv, and they’re selling low mileage PPV’s now for like 30K , and that’s the 5.3L.. *whistles and walks away*


P.s. trying to trade your 6.2’s to a GM dealer is obviously futile since the stop sale order, but you could try other avenues, like selling outright to carmax.
 
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23Seven

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Anyone have a failure or know someone that had a crank/bearing failure using a DMF Disabler or L9? I’m curious to know if some 0W-40 along with keeping all 8 firing and the motor oiling and cooling properly would keep the failure from happening? I know the lifters are still suspect and could crush your top end but at least it’s not the bottom end leaving you dead in the water.
 

Scarey

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I think that is a formula for success. Multi wt 30 or 40, frequent changes, early early first oil change, Dfm/auto stop disabler, don’t lug it use tow haul when needed. No guarantee but I think your chances for a long and happy life are greatly increased.
 
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blanchard7684

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Anyone have a failure or know someone that had a crank/bearing failure using a DMF Disabler or L9? I’m curious to know if some 0W-40 along with keeping all 8 firing and the motor oiling and cooling properly would keep the failure from happening? I know the lifters are still suspect and could crush your top end but at least it’s not the bottom end leaving you dead in the water.
I personally have yet to see this failure on any media outlet. If you disable DFM, cancel auto start stop every drive cycle, change oil frequently, or move to a higher viscosity grade, you are not likely to be a statistic.
 

Vladimir2306

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I personally have yet to see this failure on any media outlet. If you disable DFM, cancel auto start stop every drive cycle, change oil frequently, or move to a higher viscosity grade, you are not likely to be a statistic.
I'm not sure, I had a breakdown just during the period of inactive DFM, when I was driving 150 km/h on the highway with a trailer
 

Vladimir2306

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I think that is a formula for success. Multi wt 30 or 40, frequent changes, early early first oil change, Dfm/auto stop disabler, don’t lug it use tow haul when needed. No guarantee but I think your chances for a long and happy life are greatly increased.
And it is even better to put the car in the garage and not drive it))
 

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