BREAKING: GM is officially recalling the L87

[BacDoc]

If you feel you must, 0w40 will give you more protection than 0W20.
Would you rather possibly void your warranty (likely not)? Or increase the likelihood of voiding your engine?

If change to 0-40W would improve safety absolutely! When I questioned my dealer/service department last week they said they can’t recommend that. WTF?

If I took it in tomorrow I don’t think they would do oil change with 0-40W (I am going to try this week) and really don’t care about voiding warranty with going to 0-40W. I would gladly pay the difference if it was even a little bit more in the safety aspect!

I can’t see how anyone could tell what oil was in there if the motor failed especially using something that GM would do after inspection.

Guess I will just have to wait for the “Letter”

 

[Scarey]

20 or 40, they use the same filter number. Your correct, they will not know the difference. I don’t understand the 20 defenders. If you choose to use 20, obviously that is your choice, to defend 20 is pretty hard to understand. The evidence is everywhere. Oil geek, who has done contract oil testing/formulation for gm. Gms knee jerk reaction to excessive bearing wear was to recommend 40. Even forum members who have done pretty detailed analysis are 40 fans. Do what you want but 20 was for the government not the consumer.

 

[OR VietVet]

Yeah man I'm glad you would rather sink 20 to 30k on a old vehicle. But i promise those platforms have tons of issues and no warranty. Less safe too.

But I'm glad you found something you enjoy.

Nobody said anything about $20k to $30k, he said $15k to $30K and that of course would depend on the exact vehicle and mileage and how well it has been taken care of and the paperwork to back it up. If, in my case, you can find an almost perfect 2004 K2500HD crew cab short bed with brand new tires and literally not a scratch or dent on it and paint and interior is perfect and has the paperwork to back it all up and comes with a ReTrax sliding/lockable bed cover and pay only $16K for it and at 118K miles, then yea, that is better than buying a new truck that like these recall trucks, are full of problems, minor and major and even if out of warranty the recall covers it but look at all the headaches and safety concerns.
THESE PLATFORMS you speak of, have the issues worked out already and the selling price reflects wear and tear and mileage and how well it is taken care of. Look at the new ones. You know, the ones that you buy in to the sales pitch and throw down lots of money and time and you have problem after problem and are tied to a crooked dealer to supposedly fix the vehicles at a no cost repair and as soon as you hit the mileage or time plateau, SAYONARA sucker. Now whatever is left over is on you and the likelihood of the extended warranty you shelled out money for too.

Thanks for telling me you are glad I found something I can enjoy. You are right, I am out enjoying my truck while yours is stuck at the dealer for months on end and the whole time your resale value is plummeting while mine is going up. Your screen name suggests a Duramax engine and that is smart but still does not give you all the freedom to tell off someone else if they decide to do what is BEST for them and their pocketbook.

 

[DuraYuk]

Nobody said anything about $20k to $30k, he said $15k to $30K and that of course would depend on the exact vehicle and mileage and how well it has been taken care of and the paperwork to back it up. If, in my case, you can find an almost perfect 2004 K2500HD crew cab short bed with brand new tires and literally not a scratch or dent on it and paint and interior is perfect and has the paperwork to back it all up and comes with a ReTrax sliding/lockable bed cover and pay only $16K for it and at 118K miles, then yea, that is better than buying a new truck that like these recall trucks, are full of problems, minor and major and even if out of warranty the recall covers it but look at all the headaches and safety concerns.
THESE PLATFORMS you speak of, have the issues worked out already and the selling price reflects wear and tear and mileage and how well it is taken care of. Look at the new ones. You know, the ones that you buy in to the sales pitch and throw down lots of money and time and you have problem after problem and are tied to a crooked dealer to supposedly fix the vehicles at a no cost repair and as soon as you hit the mileage or time plateau, SAYONARA sucker. Now whatever is left over is on you and the likelihood of the extended warranty you shelled out money for too.

Thanks for telling me you are glad I found something I can enjoy. You are right, I am out enjoying my truck while yours is stuck at the dealer for months on end and the whole time your resale value is plummeting while mine is going up. Your screen name suggests a Duramax engine and that is smart but still does not give you all the freedom to tell off someone else if they decide to do what is BEST for them and their pocketbook.

View attachment 456988View attachment 456989

I agreed with him and his choice. You ok?

For many safety is important. And these new vehicles have warranties so even if something happened it's covered.

Those old ones you enjoy so much break and broke during warranty too. And will continue to break with no dealer support.

I'm glad you found something you enjoy tho.

 

[BacDoc]

Nobody said anything about $20k to $30k, he said $15k to $30K and that of course would depend on the exact vehicle and mileage and how well it has been taken care of and the paperwork to back it up. If, in my case, you can find an almost perfect 2004 K2500HD crew cab short bed with brand new tires and literally not a scratch or dent on it and paint and interior is perfect and has the paperwork to back it all up and comes with a ReTrax sliding/lockable bed cover and pay only $16K for it and at 118K miles, then yea, that is better than buying a new truck that like these recall trucks, are full of problems, minor and major and even if out of warranty the recall covers it but look at all the headaches and safety concerns.
THESE PLATFORMS you speak of, have the issues worked out already and the selling price reflects wear and tear and mileage and how well it is taken care of. Look at the new ones. You know, the ones that you buy in to the sales pitch and throw down lots of money and time and you have problem after problem and are tied to a crooked dealer to supposedly fix the vehicles at a no cost repair and as soon as you hit the mileage or time plateau, SAYONARA sucker. Now whatever is left over is on you and the likelihood of the extended warranty you shelled out money for too.

Thanks for telling me you are glad I found something I can enjoy. You are right, I am out enjoying my truck while yours is stuck at the dealer for months on end and the whole time your resale value is plummeting while mine is going up. Your screen name suggests a Duramax engine and that is smart but still does not give you all the freedom to tell off someone else if they decide to do what is BEST for them and their pocketbook.

View attachment 456988View attachment 456989

Beautiful!
I had a 2500 Chevy Express Van with 6.0l and I loved the way you could get 1500/2500/3500 versions as you could pick your brakes and suspension options.
Do you have the 6.0l?

 

[OR VietVet]

Beautiful!
I had a 2500 Chevy Express Van with 6.0l and I loved the way you could get 1500/2500/3500 versions as you could pick your brakes and suspension options.
Do you have the 6.0l?

Yes, the 6.0 is what I wanted and not the 8.1. I already have all the torque I need from the 6.0 with the 4.10 gears.

 

[OR VietVet]

I agreed with him and his choice. You ok?

For many safety is important. And these new vehicles have warranties so even if something happened it's covered.

Those old ones you enjoy so much break and broke during warranty too. And will continue to break with no dealer support.

I'm glad you found something you enjoy tho.

I did not read it as you agreeing with him. Sorry if I misread.

Case in point: way easier to work on too compared to new/newer. For instance: I replaced the foggy headlight assemblies on my 2004 and that headlight was swapped in 5 minutes.

My landlord has a 2018 Suburban that I am going to have to deal with the d/s headlight assembly to fix a lighting problem. Because I do not have baby hands, I cannot get at the t/s area. I am going to have to open up the grille/front bumper area and disconnect the inner wheel well cover, just to allow for removal.

I have my 2005 Tahoe Z71 and my 2004 K2500HD and by far, there is enough creature comforts, the seat are the most comfortable of all the series years, and to work on them compared to the 2018 Suburban, it is not even close.

The GMT values on my two is comparatively way better than any new truck just bought and driven off the lot, especially the ones with the 6.2 engines.

 

[Marky Dissod]

Your screen name suggests a Duramax engine ...

6.6L turbodiesel is a DuraMaximum.
3.0L turbodiesel is a DuraMedium.
2.7L turbodiesel is a DuraMinimum.

 

[OR VietVet]

6.6L turbodiesel is a DuraMaximum.
3.0L turbodiesel is a DuraMedium.
2.7L turbodiesel is a DuraMinimum.

I had a 2003 K2500 ext cab short bed Duramax that I bought brand new. The best pulling/towing truck I ever had, with that Allison transmission. I had a full size 73 Blazer that was unlawful to drive on the streets. I 4x4'd with it. Full roll cage, 6" lift, 38" tires/Swampers, hydraulic ram steering, on board air compressor, front and rear brake line locks, Warn winch.....you name it, I had it on there because I was single and was making great money here in Oregon. I had a full size, and I mean full size enough that it was wider than law allowed but I never got a ticket, and I had special ramps that set over the trailer fenders because I had to drive over those ramps to load the Blazer on the trailer.

Used to stay at the back when a bunch of us would tow to the trails for 4-wheeling. Tilamook Forest has some great places. I would get tired of slow pokes with their big block engines and tiny Jeep Wranglers and smaller trailers and I would just pull out and blow by them and pass going UP the pass. That truck pulled like it had a 600 cubic inch big block in it.

 

[vcode]

20 or 40, they use the same filter number. Your correct, they will not know the difference. I don’t understand the 20 defenders. If you choose to use 20, obviously that is your choice, to defend 20 is pretty hard to understand. The evidence is everywhere. Oil geek, who has done contract oil testing/formulation for gm. Gms knee jerk reaction to excessive bearing wear was to recommend 40. Even forum members who have done pretty detailed analysis are 40 fans. Do what you want but 20 was for the government not the consumer.

Just curious, do you realize how many millions of vehicles are out there with tens, if not hundreds of billions of accumulated miles on them that run 0W20? I'm not talking the millions of GM's out there running trouble free on 20, I'm talking Honda, Toyota, Lexus, Nissan, Ford, Stellantis, and others that have been running 20 for decades with no issues to speak of. Faulty parts are to blame, not faulty oil. End of story.