BREAKING: GM is officially recalling the L87

[BacDoc]

2023 High Country

I’ve read every post in this thread and need some help thinking through the potential remedy. I understand engine basics but am nowhere near as knowledgeable as many of you, so I’m seeking some input.

When notified I’ll take the Tahoe into the dealership for the inspection. If they identify the failed part, I’ll get in line for a replacement engine. If they do not identify a faulty part then I get different oil, a new oil cap, and an extended warranty. The piece I’m struggling with is the timing of the test. If my engine passes the test on inspection day, how can GM be sure the potential faulty part won’t fail in 10 miles or 30,000 miles down the road? I understand that’s part of the reason for the extended warranty, but it does not alleviate my concerns or fear of being stranded on a remote highway/road. I live in the Pacific NW and frequently travel over mountain passes with limited shoulder space. If the engine loses propulsion and I have to pull over in the pass, then part of Tahoe will be in the road (especially in winter when the shoulders are covered in snow banks), presenting a dangerous situation for approaching traffic (forward and rear).

I guess I’m curious if I’m contemplating this risk correctly? Just because my engine passes inspection that day, am I really any “safer” than I was the before the test?

This is exactly what most of us need to worry about. The motor or transmission failing, inconvenience of being without the truck - all of this is secondary to our lives and safety!

As usual the true winner in this situation is the attorney who initiates the wrongful death or personal injury suit. It’s too bad these defective products get out there but GM is literally digging their own grave. No question about liability and they should do what other manufacturers like Toyota have done, just recall and replace engines.

 

[blanchard7684]

2023 High Country

I’ve read every post in this thread and need some help thinking through the potential remedy. I understand engine basics but am nowhere near as knowledgeable as many of you, so I’m seeking some input.

When notified I’ll take the Tahoe into the dealership for the inspection. If they identify the failed part, I’ll get in line for a replacement engine. If they do not identify a faulty part then I get different oil, a new oil cap, and an extended warranty. The piece I’m struggling with is the timing of the test. If my engine passes the test on inspection day, how can GM be sure the potential faulty part won’t fail in 10 miles or 30,000 miles down the road? I understand that’s part of the reason for the extended warranty, but it does not alleviate my concerns or fear of being stranded on a remote highway/road. I live in the Pacific NW and frequently travel over mountain passes with limited shoulder space. If the engine loses propulsion and I have to pull over in the pass, then part of Tahoe will be in the road (especially in winter when the shoulders are covered in snow banks), presenting a dangerous situation for approaching traffic (forward and rear).

I guess I’m curious if I’m contemplating this risk correctly? Just because my engine passes inspection that day, am I really any “safer” than I was the before the test?

Yes there is some "tail risk" here.

The test is only going to indicate if the engine is in the early or incipient stages of bearing failure. It is a way to tell if the bearings are heavily stressed before the engine seizes.

Assuming your crankshaft and connecting rods are in the realm of defective units, there could be incipient damage that will take some time to progress to failure point. The pico test won't be able to pick this up.

0w40 in this specific engine can greatly reduce the progression of the damage.

 

[Vladimir2306]

No one can be SURE. GM is willing to use 0W40, which will offer some extra protection in exchange for 2MpG.
Your concerns cannot be COMPLETELY alleviated, they can only be mitigated.

Would not be surprised if an unusually (embarrassingly) high number of L87s fail between 150,001 & 200,000 miles ...

I am currently driving on 0-40 oil, I understand that the engine is new, I understand that the oil is thicker, but fuel consumption has increased significantly. 2MPG, is this in the city or in highway mode?

 

[Rex Kwon Do]

Hello!!!! Please forgive me I have not read this whole thread but have a question on warranty for the experts here:

I have a ‘21 Tahoe and a ‘21 Silverado, both with 6.2s and have had zero problems, but am concerned obviously. With the new extended warranty being issued for rods, I assume we will get coverage for lifters by default? It would be a standard powertrain warranty that would cover all lubricated parts just like the regular pt warranty? Not limited to just rod/bearing issues?

My wife’s Tahoe is at 58k and my Silverado is at 91k….a pt warranty to 150k would drastically alter when I replace these trucks. Thanks in advance!!

 

[WalleyeMikeIII]

Hello!!!! Please forgive me I have not read this whole thread but have a question on warranty for the experts here:

I have a ‘21 Tahoe and a ‘21 Silverado, both with 6.2s and have had zero problems, but am concerned obviously. With the new extended warranty being issued for rods, I assume we will get coverage for lifters by default? It would be a standard powertrain warranty that would cover all lubricated parts just like the regular pt warranty? Not limited to just rod/bearing issues?

My wife’s Tahoe is at 58k and my Silverado is at 91k….a pt warranty to 150k would drastically alter when I replace these trucks. Thanks in advance!!

We wont know until we see it in print from GM.

 

[mummer43]

I have a bit of a dillemma. I’m due for an oil change, which I would have to pay for. My Yukon is not up for the recall yet and I don’t know if I should have the oil changed or wait for the recall which basically included a free oil change. For what it’s worth my app says I am at 18% oil life.

 

[2017sltXL]

No one can be SURE. GM is willing to use 0W40, which will offer some extra protection in exchange for 2MpG.
Your concerns cannot be COMPLETELY alleviated, they can only be mitigated.

Would not be surprised if an unusually (embarrassingly) high number of L87s fail between 150,001 & 200,000 miles ...

I'm a little surprised that switching to 0W40 would make that large a difference in mpg unless it was combined with disabling the DFM?

 

[jfoj]

I am currently driving on 0-40 oil, I understand that the engine is new, I understand that the oil is thicker, but fuel consumption has increased significantly. 2MPG, is this in the city or in highway mode?

Not sure where anyone came up with a 2 MPG hit running 0W40 vs. 0W20.

This was just one trip with the 0W40 and there was a bit of stop and go driving in this average.

This is also with the Auto Stop/Start and DFM disabled!

 

[the 18th letter]

Not sure where anyone came up with a 2 MPG hit running 0W40 vs. 0W20.

This was just one trip with the 0W40 and there was a bit of stop and go driving in this average.

View attachment 457829

Post your mileage before the switch if you are implying you didn’t lose 2mpg with the switch.

 

[JTGZ71]

I have a bit of a dillemma. I’m due for an oil change, which I would have to pay for. My Yukon is not up for the recall yet and I don’t know if I should have the oil changed or wait for the recall which basically included a free oil change. For what it’s worth my app says I am at 18% oil life.

Not that I have anymore information than anyone else, but I would say, don't wait for the "free" oil change. If GM starts sending out letters in early to mid June, that is still at least a couple weeks from now. And I think some have said on here that it likely will happen in waves (ranges of VINs or however GM will do it), so it may not mean that you get a letter Day 1 and will be able to immediately bring it in for inspection. Seems like this will take some time. In my opinion, better to care for your vehicle now the best you can.

 

[mummer43]

Not that I have anymore information than anyone else, but I would say, don't wait for the "free" oil change. If GM starts sending out letters in early to mid June, that is still at least a couple weeks from now. And I think some of said on here that it likely will happen in waves (ranges of VINs or however GM will do it), so it may not mean that you get a letter Day 1 and will be able to immediately bring it in for inspection. Seems like this will take some time. In my opinion, better to care for your vehicle now the best you can.

Yeah I suppose you are correct. I'm wondering if I should tell them to put 0W40 in it.

 

[jfoj]

Post your mileage before the switch if you are implying you didn’t lose 2mpg with the switch.

Here is the problem, 0W20 went out of my engine at 544 miles and I do not have any screen shots from this point in time. I also have had the Auto Stop/Start and DFM disabled since 275 miles.

The 20.8 MPG was also with 3 adults and a fairly packed cargo section. The route I took was fairly flat with some decline in altitude because I ended up at Sea Level, so there clearly is an advantage due to the terrain. It is also a function on how aggressively I drive with my right foot and how many trucks and rolling roadblocks I need to dispatch.

The EPA Highway rating of my 6000 brick is 18 MPG, 14 MPG City and 16 MPG Combined.

Assuming 2 MPG hit for 0W40 oil and disabling the Auto Stop/Start and DFM, I guess I should be getting close to 26 MPG on the highway based on the way some people think around here. Not going to happen in one of these vehicles.

There is absolutely NO 2 MPG hit running 0W40 vs 0W20, might be 0.1-0.2 MPG at the highest. Someone here posted this 2 MPG non-sense, they just pulled that number out of their backside.

The EPA and manufacturers would have been running 0W20 25 years ago it they could get 2 MPG with just a oil viscosity change.

Not sure where people dream up these ideas.

I really do not care what my fuel economy is, I am not trying to for the highest fuel economy, I am trying to get my engine to last more than 50k miles. Durability and reliability is far more of a concern that what is spent on fuel. Regardless of what I drive with an ICE power plant, I will be spending money on fuel.

Here is a shot of me Hypermiling in town with a slight decline in grade going no faster than 45 MPH. 9 minutes, distance 4.9 miles. This truely was a bit of Hypermiling because I was spending a fair amount of time in DFCO (Decel with Fuel Cut Off). 24 MPG, gotta love this, but the moment I need to climb a grade, this story is over!

 

[Scarey]

Price of oil change is insignificant. Change it. Better yet, take this opportunity to change it yourself and put in 0-40. Contrary to popular belief, there are no 0-40 police trying to void warranties.

 

[jfoj]

Hello!!!! Please forgive me I have not read this whole thread but have a question on warranty for the experts here:

I have a ‘21 Tahoe and a ‘21 Silverado, both with 6.2s and have had zero problems, but am concerned obviously. With the new extended warranty being issued for rods, I assume we will get coverage for lifters by default? It would be a standard powertrain warranty that would cover all lubricated parts just like the regular pt warranty? Not limited to just rod/bearing issues?

My wife’s Tahoe is at 58k and my Silverado is at 91k….a pt warranty to 150k would drastically alter when I replace these trucks. Thanks in advance!!

Have your vehicles been recalled?

I believe the problem engine build window is from March 1, 2021 to June 30, 2024.

So even if you have a 2021 model year vehicle, your vehicle(s) may not fall under the recall.

Only engines within the problem build window that have "Passed" the test procedure and are converted to 0W40 engine oil will have the warranty extension. But also understand the warranty extension is from the In Service Date, but you will likely hit mileage before the time.

Given the mileage you currently have, you may be fine even if your engine is in the problem build window. From just doing searches for failures, it appears there were more failures in the later year vehicles. Seemed as we got into the 2023-2024 models many of the engines would fail before the first oil change.

 

[jfoj]

Price of oil change is insignificant. Change it. Better yet, take this opportunity to change it yourself and put in 0-40. Contrary to popular belief, there are no 0-40 police trying to void warranties.

These engines, good or bad are not going to fail due to 0W40, they are more likely to fail with 0W20.

And regardless of what viscosity oil you run, any engine will suffer from extended oil change intervals vs more frequent oil changes. The filter only captures larger dirt particles, the detergents in the oil keep dirt in suspension, the only way to remove any dirt/carbon/soot/fuel that the filter does not capture is to drain the oil.

Change your oil frequently, I would not recommend exceeding 50% on the OLM, rinse and repeat if you value your engine. What you spend in additional oil changes will not even touch a single internal engine repair or loss of value if you trade or sell because of an engine problem.

 

[Scarey]

Post your mileage before the switch if you are implying you didn’t lose 2mpg with the switch.

The correct challenge is to show the evidence there is a 2 mpg loss by switching to 0-40.

 

[Vladimir2306]

Not sure where anyone came up with a 2 MPG hit running 0W40 vs. 0W20.

This was just one trip with the 0W40 and there was a bit of stop and go driving in this average.

This is also with the Auto Stop/Start and DFM disabled!

View attachment 457829

I have already realized that you are the most important specialist here on the forum, and your opinion is the most important. My consumption on oil 0-40 has increased. Where I used to drive on oil 0-20 with a consumption of 14 liters per 100 km, according to the American it is 16.8 mpg, now I have 15.4 liters per 100 km, or 15.3 mpg on oil 0-40

 

[jfoj]

Put 0W20 back in your engine and see what happens.

But also understand, your vehicle just went thru a complete heart transplant so you have a few more variables than just a different oil viscosity.

Also realize that your engine assembly is basically new, it will loosen up over time and your fuel economy will increase.

 

[Scarey]

I have already realized that you are the most important specialist here on the forum, and your opinion is the most important. My consumption on oil 0-40 has increased. Where I used to drive on oil 0-20 with a consumption of 14 liters per 100 km, according to the American it is 16.8 mpg, now I have 15.4 liters per 100 km, or 15.3 mpg on oil 0-40

The only variable change is the oil?

 

[Vladimir2306]

Put 0W20 back in your engine and see what happens.

But also understand, your vehicle just went thru a complete heart transplant so you have a few more variables than just a different oil viscosity.

Also realize that your engine assembly is basically new, it will loosen up over time and your fuel economy will increase.

That's exactly what he said my engine was new. Why do you repeat my own words? Of course, I will fill 0-20. I have another 500 km to run-in, after which I will return again to 0-20 oil