BREAKING: GM is officially recalling the L87

[vcode]

I guess 6 weeks isn’t terrible, in the grand scheme of things, right? I decided to go ahead and make an appt for mine next Monday. If it fails, although I doubt it will, I’d rather get this process going and hopefully have it back before we may hit the road around Thanksgiving. By the way, when I talked with my dealership today to schedule the appointment, they noted they have yet to have a single failed test and engine replacement. So, take that for what you will.

Interesting. 6 weeks out of service in the first year would invoke the lemon law in many states. Maybe that is why 2025's were not recalled???

 

[JTGZ71]

Interesting. 6 weeks out of service in the first year would invoke the lemon law in many states. Maybe that is why 2025's were not recalled???

Ha, makes you wonder...

 

[Padraig]

Yes, I confirmed that when I called to schedule my inspection appointment. I'm sure it's not exactly an equivalent vehicle in most cases. Although I think the guy who posted recently said his dealership had him in a Hummer EV, so that's pretty nice. And then somebody else got an Equinox.

WOW, It would be tough hauling three Irish Wolfhounds in an equinox., let enough towing the boat

 

[stiedemann]

Why 9 quart instead of 8 quart? What is the reasoning? Like @Fless said, fill to the full on the dipstick.

Also, use the 0w-20 and not the 0w-40. I your owner's manual it will likely give you oil weight options depending on where you live and driving conditions. You can fudge on that if you want.

Also, it is your vehicle and you do what you want, BUT, if there is ever a warranty claim and you cannot prove use of the "recommended" oil weight, they can turn down a warranty claim.

Thanks, I did not think of the warranty aspect, just trying to not have engine problems but you bring up a good point, especially since the Chevy dealer said to use 0W20. Probably best to stick with that.

 

[JTGZ71]

I guess 6 weeks isn’t terrible, in the grand scheme of things, right? I decided to go ahead and make an appt for mine next Monday. If it fails, although I doubt it will, I’d rather get this process going and hopefully have it back before we may hit the road around Thanksgiving. By the way, when I talked with my dealership today to schedule the appointment, they noted they have yet to have a single failed test and engine replacement. So, take that for what you will.

I got the inspection completed today. It passed. The service advisor, when I asked, confirmed that they have not seen a single failed inspection at their service department.

They also completed an ECM software update, which seems somewhat related to the L87 engine issues, given it mentions the P0016 code:

https://static.oemdtc.com/NHTSA-PDFs/MC-11022904-0001.pdf

 

[zbad55]

It seems that GM is really thinking that just by changing the oil to a higher viscosity is going to fix a badly machined crank shaft and will hold up until the warranty has expired. I know from what we read on here is a small sample size but it sure seems like everyone that has had the test completed is a pass. Even talking to the local SA it seems very few are needing an engine replaced, guess time will tell

 

[JTGZ71]

It seems that GM is really thinking that just by changing the oil to a higher viscosity is going to fix a badly machined crank shaft and will hold up until the warranty has expired. I know from what we read on here is a small sample size but it sure seems like everyone that has had the test completed is a pass. Even talking to the local SA it seems very few are needing an engine replaced, guess time will tell

I agree with you. I can only recall maybe one specific individual who posted on here who is having his engine replaced due to a failed test. It makes me question whether the test is really appropriately designed to reliably identify engines that may be bad. Like you said, time will tell.

 

[GMCnewbee]

Here is what I am having a problem understanding. If we "pass the PICO test" we get to use 0W-40 oil. Since we are assuming that most of us are going to "pass", what are we waiting for? Why doesn't GM tell us all to go with the 0W-40 right now? But if we get a new motor or purchase a new vehicle, oh no, you must use 0W-20.

It has been mentioned here on the Forum that if you do have a bad motor and you have 0W-40 oil the PICO test could give you a "pass". I am no expert but that does not sound like a very accurate test.

I am using the 0W-20 and stressing out that I may "lose propulsion", and keeping my fingers crossed that I am in the 97%, 95%, or whatever we are calling ourselves. Don't get me wrong, I like my Yukon and love the 6.2 and know that if they are built correctly, they will last a long time. I kind of feel like I am in the casino at the roulette table.

If mine lasts I am going to wait until I see what the 2027's look like and maybe trade in.

 

[JTGZ71]

Here is what I am having a problem understanding. If we "pass the PICO test" we get to use 0W-40 oil. Since we are assuming that most of us are going to "pass", what are we waiting for? Why doesn't GM tell us all to go with the 0W-40 right now? But if we get a new motor or purchase a new vehicle, oh no, you must use 0W-20.

Some on here hold the belief that 0W-40 should have been the recommended oil from Day 1, but that GM went with (or continues to go with) 0W-20 for a very slight improvement in MPG for CAFE purposes. Others would point out that there are many, many of these engines doing just fine with 0W-20, and if not for the manufacturing defects affecting some of the engines, the oil discussion would be mostly irrelevant. The debate could probably go on forever, and maybe there is no one right answer.

 

[Aggie76]

Here is what I am having a problem understanding. If we "pass the PICO test" we get to use 0W-40 oil. Since we are assuming that most of us are going to "pass", what are we waiting for? Why doesn't GM tell us all to go with the 0W-40 right now? But if we get a new motor or purchase a new vehicle, oh no, you must use 0W-20.

It has been mentioned here on the Forum that if you do have a bad motor and you have 0W-40 oil the PICO test could give you a "pass". I am no expert but that does not sound like a very accurate test.

I am using the 0W-20 and stressing out that I may "lose propulsion", and keeping my fingers crossed that I am in the 97%, 95%, or whatever we are calling ourselves. Don't get me wrong, I like my Yukon and love the 6.2 and know that if they are built correctly, they will last a long time. I kind of feel like I am in the casino at the roulette table.

If mine lasts I am going to wait until I see what the 2027's look like and maybe trade in.

I share your concerns with my '24 Yukon XL Denali. It's my wife's primary vehicle and she makes quarterly 2,500 mile trips to visit her family in Michigan. We have discussed that even if the "test", on Oct 22, says it passes we will consider changing her vehicle in the near future.

 

[zbad55]

Here is what I am having a problem understanding. If we "pass the PICO test" we get to use 0W-40 oil. Since we are assuming that most of us are going to "pass", what are we waiting for? Why doesn't GM tell us all to go with the 0W-40 right now? But if we get a new motor or purchase a new vehicle, oh no, you must use 0W-20.

It has been mentioned here on the Forum that if you do have a bad motor and you have 0W-40 oil the PICO test could give you a "pass". I am no expert but that does not sound like a very accurate test.

I am using the 0W-20 and stressing out that I may "lose propulsion", and keeping my fingers crossed that I am in the 97%, 95%, or whatever we are calling ourselves. Don't get me wrong, I like my Yukon and love the 6.2 and know that if they are built correctly, they will last a long time. I kind of feel like I am in the casino at the roulette table.

If mine lasts I am going to wait until I see what the 2027's look like and maybe trade in.

I had a 2023 Denali Ultimate and felt the same way you feel, wasn't interested in rolling the dice every time I went on a trip. After speaking with some GM power train engineers I worked with I felt the best thing to hope for was a new engine. That would be a inconvenience for sure but the best outcome for this issue. After seeing almost every test was a pass I decided to just trade in my Denali and I purchased a 2025 Escalade, couldn't be happier

 

[CAPantherFan]

I had a 2023 Denali Ultimate and felt the same way you feel, wasn't interested in rolling the dice every time I went on a trip. After speaking with some GM power train engineers I worked with I felt the best thing to hope for was a new engine. That would be a inconvenience for sure but the best outcome for this issue. After seeing almost every test was a pass I decided to just trade in my Denali and I purchased a 2025 Escalade, couldn't be happier

I traded my Silverado in for a new one with 3.0 diesel. Don't want to roll the dice and get stranded.

 

[22BlackDenali]

It seems that GM is really thinking that just by changing the oil to a higher viscosity is going to fix a badly machined crank shaft and will hold up until the warranty has expired. I know from what we read on here is a small sample size but it sure seems like everyone that has had the test completed is a pass. Even talking to the local SA it seems very few are needing an engine replaced, guess time will tell

Got the call that my engine replacement is complete. Pick up this afternoon. Let you know how it runs. Fingers crossed.

 

[Scarey]

I bought a ‘24 HC Tahoe last year. My fault, I had no idea they were using Dfm with collapsible lifters leading to lifter/cam failures. Then the crank bearing issue came up. So the top end fails and now the bottom end fails. It’s all about percentages and I didn’t like the percentages I saw. I trade in on a ‘25 HC 3.0 Tahoe. My ‘24 trade is still sitting on the dealers lot 5months later.

 

[22BlackDenali]

I bought a ‘24 HC Tahoe last year. My fault, I had no idea they were using Dfm with collapsible lifters leading to lifter/cam failures. Then the crank bearing issue came up. So the top end fails and now the bottom end fails. It’s all about percentages and I didn’t like the percentages I saw. I trade in on a ‘25 HC 3.0 Tahoe. My ‘24 trade is still sitting on the dealers lot 5months later.

How do you like driving the 3.0 compared to 6.2? Depending on how this engine replacement plays out, it would be one of my next considerations.

 

[Scarey]

I really like the 3.0. I don’t hammer the throttle but acceleration from a stop is maybe quicker than the 6.2. Freeway speeds, acceleration is a little less than 6.2. I think the 3.0 idles smoother than the 6.2. Love the diesel rattle sound, some may prefer the v8 growl. The 3.0 has another layer of emissions equipment. Def has not been an issue, add 2.5g jug maybe every 3k. Towing the ski boat locally is a pleasure with the 3.0 and air shocks.

 

[Stbentoak]

I traded my Silverado in for a new one with 3.0 diesel. Don't want to roll the dice and get stranded.

3.0 Runs on 0W-20 with no issues. Not a whimper on my 2021 and not a whimper on my 2025. Neither one uses a drop of oil...... Just racks up miles.....

 

[Boston]

I have a 25 high country and just did the first oil change at the dealer at 2000 miles. I asked and they said my engine was after they changed the production process and 0w20 was what they use for the 2025 and I did not need 0w40. I also saw people saying to put in 9 quarts oil and I asked that and they said it only uses 8 quarts. I plan to do my own oil change next and use 0w40. I am not sure about the 9 quarts.

WTF…9 qts!
I put in 7 quarts then start it up and let it idle for a few… shut off and then USE THE DIP STICK to adjust level

 

[jfoj]

I am going to comment on the 9 quarts for these V8 engines.

What I did was check the oil level on the dipstick CAREFULLY when I got my new 2024 Yukon Denali from the dealer and wanted to see what the factory oil level fill looked like on the dipstick. Interesting I found oil level about 1/8" above the top line on the dipstick. I noted this for when I performed the first oil change on the truck, for the record I change the oil in all my vehicles had have been doing so for 50 years, so this is not something new to me.

When I performed the first oil change I had read everywhere that these engines required 8 quarts of oil. I drained the oil, put 7 quarts in the crankcase, started the engine and allowed it to run for a few minutes, turned the engine off, pulled the dipstick and not a single bit of oil was on the dipstick. So I added an additional quart to bring the fill up to 8 quarts, started engine, allowed it to run about 10 minutes, shut it off and checked the dipstick. Oil was only about 1/3 up the hash marks on the dipstick. Decided to wait and verify the oil level the next morning, oil level was still only about 1/3 up the hash marks on the dipstick.

So I grabbed a 9th quart and decided to put about 1/2 of the 9th quart in the engine, oil level was around 1/2 way up hash marks on the dipstick. The goal was to MATCH the factory oil fill on the engine regardless of what the documents stated. Turned out I had to put the rest if the 9th quart in the engine to MATCH the factory fill level.

I posted on this forum asking if anyone had closely looked at the factory oil fill and if anyone had to put more than 8 quarts of oil in the engine. I have plenty of replies from people attacking me telling me I had no idea how to change oil, use a dipstick, read the owners manual, people stated I had the wrong dipstick in the engine or I did not fully seat the dipstick, the mouth breathing PDI clown overfilled the crankcase and that my engine would fail because the crank would hit the oil and cause it to foam up and all kinds of helpful replies. What a way to be welcome to this forum!!

Anyway, here is what I did, ignored all the helpful replies. Started to do my own research and was able to verify the factory oil fill on many 2024 and 2025 model V8 gas engines were almost all showing about 1/8" above the top line on the dipstick. This was not an anomaly, this was the norm.

Anyway, I have changed the oil in my truck 4 times since I purchased it, EVERY TIME I put 9 quarts of oil in the engine. I do about 80% highway driving on this truck and I have had ZERO oil consumption, ZERO oil leaks and my catch can will capture about 1 inch of oil in 4k miles.

You do what you want, but see how much oil it take to get to the top line on the dipstick, I bet you will put at least 8.75 quarts of oil to reach the top line on the dipstick. But to math the factory oil fill level which VERY few owners have verified because they either had the dealer perform the first oil change and probably never even checked the factory fill on the dipstick, you have no idea what the engine was delivered with as far as oil level. I really doubt GM would be over filling every V8 engine by 1 quart as this would be costing them a LOT of money based on the number of the V8 engines they sell annually.

Picture of the oil level on the dipstick with 9 quarts on my truck and this is EXACTLY at the level the engine had in it when I purchased the vehicle with 4 miles on it. I have 2 neighbors with 2025 Yukon 6.2l engines that they both purchased new, we checked the fill level on their engines, same as mine, they are both running 9 quarts in their engines like mine.

Again, do what you want but for those running 0W20 and only putting 8 quarts in these engines, they end up running chronically low on oil due to the excessive oil consumption with functional DFM. My engine used ZERO oil, but I an running 0W40 engine oil, a Range DFM and ASS delete and a catch can. All while putting 9 quarts in the engine and I am getting typically over 20 MPH on the highway consistently working the truck pretty hard.

Use your head, use your eyes, think for your self. Also understand GM used to spec than the V8's required 8.5 quarts at oil change, but customers got tired of paying for 9 quarts at the dealer and only getting 8.5 quarts, so with a bit of paper and ink with NO OTHER changes, these earlier engines went from requiring 8.5 to 8.0 quarts.

Again, do what you want, I do not want to hear anyone's opinion, I know what I and many owners are putting 9 quarts in at oil change and it is working for all of us without a problem.

Anyone that is not changing oil themselves and/or getting a replacement engine, suggest the FIRST thing you do is pull the dipstick and see where the oil level is on the dipstick from the dealer! I would bet it is at or below the 1/2 way mark on the dipstick.

And BTW, I am also the fool that ripped the valve body out of my 2024 Yukon Denali with 8k miles on it to upgrade the valve body proactively to reduce chances of premature transmission problems. This required the exhaust to be dropped from the engine and while at it I also installed an larger aftermarket aluminum transmission pan with a drain plug so I can drain and fill the transmission every other oil change. And guess what the transmission still works and shifts SO MUCH better in the 2-5 and 5-2 range, no more shift flares, indecisiveness, clunky downshifts. Overall a much better transmission shifting experience. So I may actually know what I am doing.

This is the oil level on the dipstick as I found the vehicle delivered to me when purchased at 4 miles. This is also the dipstick level when I put 9 quarts in my engine at time of oil change.

This is the oil level on my vehicle when putting 8 quarts in at time of oil change. Others have indicated that this is the level they have observed when changing oil and putting 8 quarts in the engine.

 

[homesick]

I am going to comment on the 9 quarts for these V8 engines.

What I did was check the oil level on the dipstick CAREFULLY when I got my new 2024 Yukon Denali from the dealer and wanted to see what the factory oil level fill looked like on the dipstick. Interesting I found oil level about 1/8" above the top line on the dipstick. I noted this for when I performed the first oil change on the truck, for the record I change the oil in all my vehicles had have been doing so for 50 years, so this is not something new to me.

When I performed the first oil change I had read everywhere that these engines required 8 quarts of oil. I drained the oil, put 7 quarts in the crankcase, started the engine and allowed it to run for a few minutes, turned the engine off, pulled the dipstick and not a single bit of oil was on the dipstick. So I added an additional quart to bring the fill up to 8 quarts, started engine, allowed it to run about 10 minutes, shut it off and checked the dipstick. Oil was only about 1/3 up the hash marks on the dipstick. Decided to wait and verify the oil level the next morning, oil level was still only about 1/3 up the hash marks on the dipstick.

So I grabbed a 9th quart and decided to put about 1/2 of the 9th quart in the engine, oil level was around 1/2 way up hash marks on the dipstick. The goal was to MATCH the factory oil fill on the engine regardless of what the documents stated. Turned out I had to put the rest if the 9th quart in the engine to MATCH the factory fill level.

I posted on this forum asking if anyone had closely looked at the factory oil fill and if anyone had to put more than 8 quarts of oil in the engine. I have plenty of replies from people attacking me telling me I had no idea how to change oil, use a dipstick, read the owners manual, people stated I had the wrong dipstick in the engine or I did not fully seat the dipstick, the mouth breathing PDI clown overfilled the crankcase and that my engine would fail because the crank would hit the oil and cause it to foam up and all kinds of helpful replies. What a way to be welcome to this forum!!

Anyway, here is what I did, ignored all the helpful replies. Started to do my own research and was able to verify the factory oil fill on many 2024 and 2025 model V8 gas engines were almost all showing about 1/8" above the top line on the dipstick. This was not an anomaly, this was the norm.

Anyway, I have changed the oil in my truck 4 times since I purchased it, EVERY TIME I put 9 quarts of oil in the engine. I do about 80% highway driving on this truck and I have had ZERO oil consumption, ZERO oil leaks and my catch can will capture about 1 inch of oil in 4k miles.

You do what you want, but see how much oil it take to get to the top line on the dipstick, I bet you will put at least 8.75 quarts of oil to reach the top line on the dipstick. But to math the factory oil fill level which VERY few owners have verified because they either had the dealer perform the first oil change and probably never even checked the factory fill on the dipstick, you have no idea what the engine was delivered with as far as oil level. I really doubt GM would be over filling every V8 engine by 1 quart as this would be costing them a LOT of money based on the number of the V8 engines they sell annually.

Picture of the oil level on the dipstick with 9 quarts on my truck and this is EXACTLY at the level the engine had in it when I purchased the vehicle with 4 miles on it. I have 2 neighbors with 2025 Yukon 6.2l engines that they both purchased new, we checked the fill level on their engines, same as mine, they are both running 9 quarts in their engines like mine.

Again, do what you want but for those running 0W20 and only putting 8 quarts in these engines, they end up running chronically low on oil due to the excessive oil consumption with functional DFM. My engine used ZERO oil, but I an running 0W40 engine oil, a Range DFM and ASS delete and a catch can. All while putting 9 quarts in the engine and I am getting typically over 20 MPH on the highway consistently working the truck pretty hard.

Use your head, use your eyes, think for your self. Also understand GM used to spec than the V8's required 8.5 quarts at oil change, but customers got tired of paying for 9 quarts at the dealer and only getting 8.5 quarts, so with a bit of paper and ink with NO OTHER changes, these earlier engines went from requiring 8.5 to 8.0 quarts.

Again, do what you want, I do not want to hear anyone's opinion, I know what I and many owners are putting 9 quarts in at oil change and it is working for all of us without a problem.

Anyone that is not changing oil themselves and/or getting a replacement engine, suggest the FIRST thing you do is pull the dipstick and see where the oil level is on the dipstick from the dealer! I would bet it is at or below the 1/2 way mark on the dipstick.

And BTW, I am also the fool that ripped the valve body out of my 2024 Yukon Denali with 8k miles on it to upgrade the valve body proactively to reduce chances of premature transmission problems. This required the exhaust to be dropped from the engine and while at it I also installed an larger aftermarket aluminum transmission pan with a drain plug so I can drain and fill the transmission every other oil change. And guess what the transmission still works and shifts SO MUCH better in the 2-5 and 5-2 range, no more shift flares, indecisiveness, clunky downshifts. Overall a much better transmission shifting experience. So I may actually know what I am doing.


View attachment 469446

Man, this is the longest butt-hurt rant I've ever seen. The only thing I'm gonna question here though is...

You complain about your welcome to the forum in '24 or '25, for your '24 model truck, but you show to have joined in '12.

joe