BREAKING: GM is officially recalling the L87

[jfoj]

Yeah I know what you said. Im saying if I did that I could show double that with a diesel.

Give it a shot, would like to see how much the Diesel do on a Hypermile route.

My route was a fairly flat road with minimal throttle input, no stop lights and an approximate overall elevation drop of around 250 feet, but I may need to verify just to be sure.

I did this to bust my buddies chops that had an Acura MDX and was planning on getting a 2025 Yukon Denali XL, which he finally did get, but he only has 174 miles on it and he has had it 6 weeks! He spends more time sitting in it in his garage with the Battery Tender connected playing with the big screen TV in the dash.

 

[BacDoc]

I have a bit of a dillemma. I’m due for an oil change, which I would have to pay for. My Yukon is not up for the recall yet and I don’t know if I should have the oil changed or wait for the recall which basically included a free oil change. For what it’s worth my app says I am at 18% oil life.

I’m not a tech but I have researched some great sources. For these engines a bit of advice on keeping your motor alive - it’s probably best to change your oil well before it gets below 20% on the OLM.

I am in the camp of those who advise 5000 miles max and that might be around 40%-50% on the OLM

 

[TollKeeper]

I think there is a second lawsuit brewing?

https://www.roadandtrack.com/news/a64839803/general-motors-6-2-liter-v8-new-class-action-lawsuit/

 

[mummer43]

I’m not a tech but I have researched some great sources. For these engines a bit of advice on keeping your motor alive - it’s probably best to change your oil well before it gets below 20% on the OLM.

I am in the camp of those who advise 5000 miles max and that might be around 40%-50% on the OLM

That sounds like pretty good
advice, which I plan of following.

 

[Jay P Wy]

Give it a shot, would like to see how much the Diesel do on a Hypermile route.

No hypermiling but 31.2 mpg from Lino Lakes MN to Oacoma SD (hand calc was a couple of tenths higher). Not much wind, temps in the 70s and going the speed limit (80 mph for most of South Dakota). Pic was taken right after filling the tank.

 

[jfoj]

@Jay P Wy

Definitely a Durmax with the Range showing as 776 miles!

We need to start a Hypermile thread to post the dash fuel economy display to see how much variation there may be. I am sure some winners could be coming down off some higher elevations as long as the roads and traffic do not slow the vehicle too much.

I have the Fuel Economy #1 display almost for the vehicle life, I reset it at about 600 miles then decided to leave it. I think I am around 17.4 MPG for the majority of my 8000 miles to this point.

 

[Kuchamps08]

Lots of replies and load of information here. From what I can tell there is some design issues with stress on the engine components coupled with the decision to put thinner oil to satisfy EPA. GM is suggesting engine replacement if their inspection finds evidence of damage, or they give you the thicker oil and extend your warranty in the event to cover it failing later.

Is the extended warranty a for sure thing? If so, what is it?

Why have so many people needed multiple engine replacements? I’ve seen so many on here talk about the oil viscosity as if thats the reason for these failures but are we really purporting that GM knew the thicker oil would fix this but they instead kept replacing engines over and over again resulting in multiple failures and exorbitant costs on GM to pay as a result? Is that why they continue to fail or is there a deeper design flaw with the internal components that the thicker oil won’t fix?
Do I need to sell my wife’s 2024 Yukon to ensure my wife and kids don’t get into a serious car accident due to engine failure?
Anybody know what the terms are for this extended warranty? Are they going to write it in a way that allows them to state that engine failures down the road aren’t associated with the current recall? Does the fact that it’s a safety recall allow a pathway to engine replacement no matter what?

I wrote a post about this a year or so ago inquiring into the engine failure issues and I was flamed as if this was being blow out of proportion. Just trying to wrap my mind around what’s the best path forward. We love the Yukon but I need to know it’s going to last and be safe. Not to mention I’m sure I’m going to take a bath if I sell it now with all of this bad publicity. Bought it despite its issues because there’s really nothing in its size class that competes.

Thanks

 

[jfoj]

We have a metric system of change, if the scale is 800 kpa, the middle of the scale is 400 kpa. Now the oil pressure on oil 0-40 is about 350 kPa, and on oil 0-20 it was about 150-200 kPa. So I think the oil pressure has doubled, just a multiple of the doubling of thick oil. I will change the oil not after 1000-2000 miles, but after 750 miles after installing the engine. Or rather, they assembled the engine for me, drove about 50 miles on it, changed the oil, now another 700 miles, then changed the oil. And already the oil is 0-20 and the change according to the regulations once every 7500 miles

While you have your dash set to Metric, the bar graph is effectively the same when set to Imperial or Metric. Center bar graph gap is 60 PSI or 413 kpa. Even if we are splitting hairs at 400 kpa this works out to 58 PSI.

Your cruise oil pressure on the bar graph seems to match my cruise bar graph location. I will have to go back and look at my logs, but I believe my cruise oil pressure is nominally around 45 PSI, but varies up to 48 PSI as I recall. Oil pressure should be around 10 PSI or 69-70 kpa less at idle. I think my idle oil pressure is around 35 PSI.

It seems from some of the pictures you posted of your dash your off idle/cruise oil pressure was pretty much in the same location on the bar graph as mine shown below with 0W40. You were running 0W20 at the time because it was before the new engine.

With the appropriate scan tool that can read the Enhanced/Extended PID's you should be able to get a numeric readout of the oil pressure rather than having to rely on the bar graph. I really wish they would have set these up like the 2025 models with the bar graph and a numeric readout.

I will try to get a reading on a 2025 with factory oil fill at some point as warm idle and cruise.

 

[jfoj]

@Kuchamps08

First you need to find out the build date on the engine in your 2024. If the vehicle build is a July or August 2024 07/24 or 08/24 you may be fine and outside the problem engine window.

As for the Warranty Extension it is supposed to be 10 Year/150,000 Mile for the engine, this is from the In Service Date of the vehicle, not the inspection.

Only engines that "Fail" the inspection test or FAIL before the inspection and seize or a replacement engine with a build date of before July 1, 2024 get replaced.

As to why multiple engine failures, many of the replacement engines were also within the same failure window. In general, it seemed that the earlier builds 2021-2022 failures were slightly higher mileage. But into 2023-2024 some of the failures occurred before the first oil change.

As to the question on oil viscosity, the thinner or lower viscosity oil requires a VERY fine final surface finish on the crankshaft. While there was talk about debris, it appears from a few sources the primary problem was the final crankshaft polishing was not fine enough. With a rougher crankshaft final polishing a heavier/higher viscosity oil would be fine. Assuming this is really the problem and debris is a partial red herring.

The Billion dollar question is how good is the noise/knock/vibration test/inspection about finding engines that are hurt vs. engines that have slight wear and may survive with 0W40 oil. I am guessing only time will tell if the engines that "Passed" and had 0W40 oil start failing either in short order or at higher mileage.

How many miles on your vehicle now? Also check the door jam sticker for the vehicle build date and this is a good starting point to know what you are dealing with unless you purchased the car before July 2024. The door jam sticker is down low on the rear drivers door jam almost covered by the rear door.

The engine build date is tricky to find and read, you have to be under the vehicle and if the vehicle has skid plates AT4 or Z71/ZR2 you probably cannot see it without removing a skid plate or using an inspection camera.