Hello everyone, I have a 2002 Chevy Tahoe LS 5.3 in need of full brake replacement. I wanted to go ahead and upgrade to a PowerStop full brake kit, but I’m stuck. There are two different styles of brake calipers, one being PBR, and the other Akebono. How would I be able to determine which style caliper my Tahoe is equipped with? Thank you in advance for your help.
Brake Upgrade Help
- Thread starter ARojo
- Start date
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Donal
Full Access Member
Select rear wheel drive or four wheel drive and see if you still get the mulitple choices.
If you really want to go crazy you can put 2019+ silverado 1500 front calipers and rotors on.
Marky Dissod
Full Access Member
Think you need 18" wheels for the above maintenance upgrade.
If you want to go mildly crazy - and you have 17" wheels - front brake caliper brackets, calipers, rotors, and pads for a 2010 Suburban.
Point is, instead of determining which style caliper your Tahoe is equipped with,
just upgrade to GM OE from a younger Suburban or Silverado.
If you get the 2019+ pickup wheels or 2021+ tahoe/yukon 17's you can run those, or aftermarket wheels with correct back spacing. Not saying this is what most people want to do, but it is an option.
Matthew Jeschke
Full Access Member
I'm working on this myself, I wouldn't use that power stop kit. I'd upgrade to GMT900 front brakes and dual piston GMT800 on rear if you don't already have that. That GMT900 brakes will require you have 17" rims though. If you have the 17" rims they're are direct bolt on. You can get the power stop kit for GMT900 fronts with those brakes but MUST be from a 2010 or NEWER NNBS / GMT900. I'd do 2011 or newer to be safe (to 2014? not sure of last year of NNBS). If you don't have the dual piston caliper in rear end, then swap it out with the GMT800 dual piston caliper setup.
Next replace your flex lines with lines rated for hydro boost and swap out your fluid. I'm currently going to swap with steal braided hoses. HERE is my post.
If you go with the next brake design you'll end up having to cut the calipers and shim them and or newer wheels. I MUCH prefer things to be a direct fit, otherwise you'll run into complexity issues if you take up the shimming, okay fit philosophy. Imagine wife taking to shop for instance and they loose washers (shims) during a brake job. Just my 2 cents... simpler is better.
FYI ~ I use the HECK out of my 2001 Z71 Tahoe. It stops GREAT but I take immaculate care of the mechanicals. I can lock up the wheels with the stock braking system. My plan is to put the GMT900's on the front tough when I find a set at the junkyard.
Next replace your flex lines with lines rated for hydro boost and swap out your fluid. I'm currently going to swap with steal braided hoses. HERE is my post.
If you go with the next brake design you'll end up having to cut the calipers and shim them and or newer wheels. I MUCH prefer things to be a direct fit, otherwise you'll run into complexity issues if you take up the shimming, okay fit philosophy. Imagine wife taking to shop for instance and they loose washers (shims) during a brake job. Just my 2 cents... simpler is better.
FYI ~ I use the HECK out of my 2001 Z71 Tahoe. It stops GREAT but I take immaculate care of the mechanicals. I can lock up the wheels with the stock braking system. My plan is to put the GMT900's on the front tough when I find a set at the junkyard.
This, right here.. I upgraded mine to the GMT900 front calipers (2010), and also installed the Powerstop Z36 kit (carbon / ceramic + slotted / drilled rotors), along with all 5 stainless braided lines from Goodridge. The rears were already the better 2-piston GMT800 brakes, but also installed the same Z36 setup in the rear. This configuration improved my (non-hydroboost) braking measurably. I've avoided several certain accidents, due to having vastly increased stopping performance. (also running factory 2015 Yukon wheels @ 18" on my '03, to fit the rotors)
Matthew Jeschke
Full Access Member
@Sam Harris that's awesome! I'm eager to do this now... I noticed one additional "Potential Upgrade" but not sure about master cylinder fitment...
There's two part numbers for the master cylinder. The first is a 1.338in bore:
The second is a "Gold AC Delco Part" with 1.456 in bore:
Wondering which one I have in my truck or how to even tell. Either way curious if it's the smaller one and I'd like to swap in the bigger one would it fit?
There's two part numbers for the master cylinder. The first is a 1.338in bore:
The second is a "Gold AC Delco Part" with 1.456 in bore:
Wondering which one I have in my truck or how to even tell. Either way curious if it's the smaller one and I'd like to swap in the bigger one would it fit?
If you want 17's you'll have to get some off a 19+ or get aftermarket with the 19+ offset and back spacing. They do still run 17's on the new trucks.
I believe one is for disc/drum brakes and the other is disc/disc brakes.
Marky Dissod
Full Access Member
And most of the ones with 18" or larger wheels, still have 17" spare tires.
Which is proof that 18" wheels are not strictly necessary (except maybe on the PPVs?).
Matthew Jeschke
Full Access Member
Interesting thanks.
I got the steel braided hoses installed. Fairly simple job. Other than center hose above rear diff ROYAL PITA. Haven't had much time to test them out. Will post once I have. Discovered my rear brake pads have like 10 miles left on them haha Glad I looked. They're GONE. Will post when everything is working and tested. I did do a short drive but not sure I got all the air out of the lines so cannot say much yet.
If you want to really get a bigger master cylinder piston, get a master cylinder for the 2002, 2500 with 4 wheel disc brakes. You'll have to get adapters for the lines that go into the master cylinder. It works great though. I put one on my 91 sierra years ago.
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One is for vacuum boost, the one with the bigger bore is for hydroboost. Look it up on RockAuto and compare the dimensions of the GM MCs.
Marky Dissod
Full Access Member
What happens if you use the one with the bigger bore, with vacuum boost?
Not a clue -- mine is hydroboost already and I'm not that familiar with the differences between the two MCs.
Donal
Full Access Member
The larger the bore, the more foot power needed. Vacuum applications may not provide adequate stopping power.
The one I put on my 91 sierra with a vacuum booster locks up all 4 tires on 2001 F250 axles with 4 wheel disc brakes and 37" tires. No extra foot power needed.
Matthew Jeschke
Full Access Member
Great tip! I'll keep this in my wishlist!
Matthew Jeschke
Full Access Member
I went to junkyard today in search of the GMT900 brakes. Spoke with guy there who's like a walking encyclopedia of factory upgrades for GMT800 trucks. He said he highly recommends a brake swap to Cadillac CTSV, XTS, or ATS front brakes. Told me he did it on his setup. It's a factory four piston caliper made by Brembo. Works with factory hoses and he thought should fit 17" snowflake rims but wasn't 100% sure as he has 18". Anybody done this swap? Parts are roughly same cost.
