Auto 4WD

[ItsJuniorJ]

Hi,

I have a 2005 Chevrolet Tahoe, with the 4 button 4WD switch.

My question is about the locking of the differentials.

I got the Tahoe stuck in some really soft sand, and using 4-Lo I noticed that the two wheels (front right and rear left) which had no traction we’re allowed to spin, but the two opposite corners which had plenty of traction were not given any “drive” at all, why is that?

If the 4WD system is supposed to “know” for itself what’s going on drive wise, surely it knows that driving the slipping wheels and not the wheels with traction, totally defeats the object of a “auto locking 4WD” system?

I’m actually going to be surprised if I get any response to this though, as I’ve never received a response to a single post unless it’s from members in the communal threads, bitching at each other. This is a genuine question about how the 4WD system works, or fails to work, so I can try and work out a solution.

Thanks in advance for any real help of advice which can be provided by serious Chevy owners and forum members!

 

[Scottydoggs]

you dont have locking diffs. the fronts are all open or a very limited slip, the rear rear's come 3 ways, open, posi and a locker. rpo codes are on the glove box door.

unless yours came with g80 locker and its broken, then they dont work so well.

heres a vid showing how they just free spin to the easy wheel to turn. then with a locker the gm truck powers up the rollers like nothing.

 

[ItsJuniorJ]

This is EXACTLY my issue, thank you so much! Is there a locker option for the front as well?

 

[Scottydoggs]

theres after market lockers out there.

the g80 works well, but if abused they can blow up. i killed the one in my 03 2500hd pick up. but it was also snow plowing over its 100,000 miles of use.

 

[ItsJuniorJ]

Got you! I’ll get these lockers!

 

[Scottydoggs]

just so you know, your talking 400 bucks per diff easy for just the diff in hand, then you need to have it installed. might want to install new gears as well, as long as your in there if they look good and used up.

unless you have experience installing a diff, id leave it to a shop. it needs to be installed right or you just wasted your money. you could be 2 k deep on front and rear diffs is my point.

 

[OneofFew]

That's is why I like lockers. at least in the front. My Gen1 explorer with front lockers gets up snowy hills where Jeeps fail... 4low 3k rpms, either they all spin or none.

 

[ItsJuniorJ]

just so you know, your talking 400 bucks per diff easy for just the diff in hand, then you need to have it installed. might want to install new gears as well, as long as your in there if they look good and used up.

unless you have experience installing a diff, id leave it to a shop. it needs to be installed right or you just wasted your money. you could be 2 k deep on front and rear diffs is my point.

I’m totally ready to invest in the Diff’s to ensure improved off-road performance! I have a great shop to handle the install, so it’s more about sourcing good kits.

What would you recommend?

 

[ItsJuniorJ]

That's is why I like lockers. at least in the front. My Gen1 explorer with front lockers gets up snowy hills where Jeeps fail... 4low 3k rpms, either they all spin or none.

This is music to my ears!

 

[Martinjmpr]

I would only run a selectable locker up front. Lockers can do weird things to handling especially on the street, and they can do it without warning.

My 'Burb has the G80 rear and it seems to work fine. I would prefer a selectable locker but I'm satisfied with the G80.

IMO front lockers are for hardcore off-roaders which is definitely not me.

As for the "auto 4wd" that has nothing to do with the axles. It's just a (IMO) half-assed substitute for a true full-time 4wd with a locking center differential.

If you're off-roading hard enough to know you'll need 4wd, skip the "auto" and just put it in 4 hi.

Auto 4wd is for intermittently slippery conditions (like a paved road that has patches of ice or snow, or heavy rain.) The Auto 4wd works by detecting slipping in your rear wheels and then intermittently engaging the front axle through the transfer case.