Another Tahoe, Another Rough Idle

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cplurbz

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I know its been posted ad nausea, but as i have lurked and searched the other related topics, i have yet to find a cause/solution. so here goes.
-TB is clean
-no cracks/voids along intake
-wires are new ac delco brand
-TOAD is reading no misfires in any cylinder
-no CEL, no DTC's
-propane torch along intake, no changes in RPMs

symptoms
-rough idle in drive, at stop lights, stops signs, etc. No effect on drive performance/ no hard shifts
-rough idle in park ONLY when AC is on full blast, turn AC off, rough idle goes away but only in park.
-AC check shows it is fully charged, but it takes about 20 mins of actual driving to start to feel cold.

im in the process of checking for AC leaks, none found yet. what am i missing here?
 

dnt1010

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i will be happy to guess. You have partially fouled spark plug due to oil usage check 2nd plug from front drivers side.... Thats right been there got the tshirt
 

Kraig

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Plugs as dnt101 said and have you cleaned the MAF?
 
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cplurbz

cplurbz

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yes, ive taken off the entire tube and cleaned the MAF properly. i will check my plugs then. although i have been monitoring my oil, i see no excessive consumption. vent tube has no old sludge or residue of oil either, clean as can be.
 

thompsoj22

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08- 6.2 denali xl somewhat the same. Our worktrucks are 6.0 and they do it also, You might have to accept that they dont like to idle at 600 rpm, Who knows? I sure dont, but as you have stated it does not affect performance so just tell yourself it's all the ponies wanting to get up to speed, lol.
 

swathdiver

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I know its been posted ad nausea, but as i have lurked and searched the other related topics, i have yet to find a cause/solution. so here goes.
-TB is clean
-no cracks/voids along intake
-wires are new ac delco brand
-TOAD is reading no misfires in any cylinder
-no CEL, no DTC's
-propane torch along intake, no changes in RPMs

symptoms
-rough idle in drive, at stop lights, stops signs, etc. No effect on drive performance/ no hard shifts
-rough idle in park ONLY when AC is on full blast, turn AC off, rough idle goes away but only in park.
-AC check shows it is fully charged, but it takes about 20 mins of actual driving to start to feel cold.

im in the process of checking for AC leaks, none found yet. what am i missing here?

Well, you might have a problem with the AC compressor. Pull the belt and spin the clutch assembly. Might be just the bearing or the clutch and bearing but if she's taking a while to cool the cab down...

If you have a bi-directional scan tool, check the commanded and actual position of the actuators to make sure they are working properly and of course, check for internal BCM and Chassis codes. An actuator can let too much heat into the cab delaying the work of the compressor to cool down the cab.
 
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cplurbz

cplurbz

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Sorry gentlemen i should have added some back story. being a new member i didnt know if anyone would give me the time of day, but thank you for the responses.
It is a 2007 LT, got it with 70k OG miles on it, 1 owner, carfax shows complete miles with all service being done at a dealer. It is spotless inside and out. the engine is clean enough to eat off of, even scoping the internal nooks and crannies where the dealer couldn't have been bothered to clean, its still surprisingly dust/grime free. What i did notice is it appears all the spark wiring is brand new, ac delco name brand, along with a new alternator. No other issues other than a weak AC and that annoying idle bump.

08- 6.2 denali xl somewhat the same. Our worktrucks are 6.0 and they do it also, You might have to accept that they dont like to idle at 600 rpm, Who knows? I sure dont, but as you have stated it does not affect performance so just tell yourself it's all the ponies wanting to get up to speed, lol.
and that would be a great thing to tell myself, but luck isnt exactly on my side. i fear simply going by that this will snowball into a larger problem. i dont really recall people having this issue and it going another 200k miles without it doing more damage. maybe it has, i dont know. my foray is motorcycles and my own V8 firebird that is 22 years old, still stock internally, and has yet to have an issue.

Also, check your motor mounts. Maybe your engine is idling normally and it’s just transmitting harshness through the chassis

idle speed?
i do not believe it is the motor mounts as my scanner shows that the idle rpms do drop. not by much. its about 580-600 give or take, then it will slump to 560ish and thats where you feel it.

Well, you might have a problem with the AC compressor. Pull the belt and spin the clutch assembly. Might be just the bearing or the clutch and bearing but if she's taking a while to cool the cab down...

If you have a bi-directional scan tool, check the commanded and actual position of the actuators to make sure they are working properly and of course, check for internal BCM and Chassis codes. An actuator can let too much heat into the cab delaying the work of the compressor to cool down the cab.
...ok im not 100 on what constitutes a bi-directional scanner. ive recently bought TOAD with the ELM327 and ive been ******* around while learnin myself with it. plugging into it it gives me the option of 2 ECMs, one with 50 PIDs and another with 9 PIDs. I used it to graph for misfires, it found none. not sure what yall get for fuel mileage but i average 14-17 at 80mph which is where it will spend most of its road life (welcome to Texas). Ive scanned everything that the little program will allow me to, nothing found. last reported DTC was 4400 miles ago, cant seem to figure out how to pull up what that DTC was. So if it sounded like i knew what i was doing electronically, im still on the learning curve.
 

Kpwweb

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Fuel Pressure?

Seems Tahoes can have issues with the in-tank fuel pump. Originally manifasts itself as a rough idle and running a little "flat".

Just a thought and something to check. I have to replace the fuel pump in my newer Tahoe. Runs fine until you REALLY hammer it, then it stumbles and throws a code for low fuel pressure. But it does have a slight shimmy at idle every so often. Another member here had the same thing (code), replaced the fuel pumps and the idle evened out...

For A/C, make sure fans come on at idle--need airflow through the condenser to cool that big of a volume down (cabin).
 

swathdiver

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...ok im not 100 on what constitutes a bi-directional scanner. ive recently bought TOAD with the ELM327

That ain't it. It's a good scan tool just not enough for these trucks as they use the Canbus system and that scan tool does not interface with it from my reading. It also cannot see the Chassis or Body modules, just the engine and maybe transmission and transfer case.

Mine averages 15.4 @ 80 mph and it is longer with 3.42 gears and the 6-speed trans. Yours is doing good at that speed for what it is, seems normal to me.

If your AC checks out, could be that some motors just don't like to idle that low. When BlackBear tuned my truck, he raised the idle to 650 rpms to eliminate the "stumble" as he called it. Mine didn't do it at the time but just as well.

Consider purchasing a Tech-2 to go along with your new ride. You can see and test just about everything and program modules should the need ever arise. Your existing tool is not useless though. The Tech-2 can see and test your AC actuators, see the pressure and temperatures and all that stuff too for example.
 

iamdub

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i do not believe it is the motor mounts as my scanner shows that the idle rpms do drop. not by much. its about 580-600 give or take, then it will slump to 560ish and thats where you feel it.

If the mount(s) are bad (common problem- more so the LH mount), then they can transmit more vibes instead of absorbing them. The Gen IV engines are known for a rough idle, although it's usually described more as an "intermittent miss".

Being a Gen IV engine, I'd run a compression check on all cylinders to see if any have a significant difference, particularly the AFM cylinders (1,4,6,7).

Your idle RPMs and MPG all seem normal.

It seems to coincide with load and you said you cleaned your MAF- maybe your MAP sensor is wonky? I don't know what it should read at idle or at x RPM or at x throttle, but it's something you can at least monitor with your scanner for comparison.
 

BG1988

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I know its been posted ad nausea, but as i have lurked and searched the other related topics, i have yet to find a cause/solution. so here goes.
-TB is clean
-no cracks/voids along intake
-wires are new ac delco brand
-TOAD is reading no misfires in any cylinder
-no CEL, no DTC's
-propane torch along intake, no changes in RPMs

symptoms
-rough idle in drive, at stop lights, stops signs, etc. No effect on drive performance/ no hard shifts
-rough idle in park ONLY when AC is on full blast, turn AC off, rough idle goes away but only in park.
-AC check shows it is fully charged, but it takes about 20 mins of actual driving to start to feel cold.

im in the process of checking for AC leaks, none found yet. what am i missing here?
MAP or MAF is dead or bad or weak..


even an incorrectly seated air filter can cause it..

for me it turned out the Wire loom is "bad" at the connector

but I really want to make 100% sure that is the main issue before i cut & replace it (soldered and shrink wrapped )


as i have adjusted the filter and it seem fine so far I plan to clean the MAF though just for kicks.. just to log it into my "maintenance book"



but at one point my MAP sensor was disconnected by pepboys to drum up business from me... there was an unscheduled Auto Stop event from it being disconnected just slightly..


What are the LIVE data readings from the MAF & MAP in "KPA"?? idle and light load?
 
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cplurbz

cplurbz

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That ain't it. It's a good scan tool just not enough for these trucks as they use the Canbus system and that scan tool does not interface with it from my reading. It also cannot see the Chassis or Body modules, just the engine and maybe transmission and transfer case.

Mine averages 15.4 @ 80 mph and it is longer with 3.42 gears and the 6-speed trans. Yours is doing good at that speed for what it is, seems normal to me.

If your AC checks out, could be that some motors just don't like to idle that low. When BlackBear tuned my truck, he raised the idle to 650 rpms to eliminate the "stumble" as he called it. Mine didn't do it at the time but just as well.

Consider purchasing a Tech-2 to go along with your new ride. You can see and test just about everything and program modules should the need ever arise. Your existing tool is not useless though. The Tech-2 can see and test your AC actuators, see the pressure and temperatures and all that stuff too for example.
****....well thats good to know partner. i see a tech 2 is 200-400 bucks give or take and looks like a 475 Hart communicator. i absolutely hate working with those but if its something will help that i can add to my toolbox, so be it. but that purchase will have to wait for a min.

If the mount(s) are bad (common problem- more so the LH mount), then they can transmit more vibes instead of absorbing them. The Gen IV engines are known for a rough idle, although it's usually described more as an "intermittent miss".

Being a Gen IV engine, I'd run a compression check on all cylinders to see if any have a significant difference, particularly the AFM cylinders (1,4,6,7).

Your idle RPMs and MPG all seem normal.

It seems to coincide with load and you said you cleaned your MAF- maybe your MAP sensor is wonky? I don't know what it should read at idle or at x RPM or at x throttle, but it's something you can at least monitor with your scanner for comparison.

MAP or MAF is dead or bad or weak..


even an incorrectly seated air filter can cause it..

for me it turned out the Wire loom is "bad" at the connector

but I really want to make 100% sure that is the main issue before i cut & replace it (soldered and shrink wrapped )


as i have adjusted the filter and it seem fine so far I plan to clean the MAF though just for kicks.. just to log it into my "maintenance book"



but at one point my MAP sensor was disconnected by pepboys to drum up business from me... there was an unscheduled Auto Stop event from it being disconnected just slightly..


What are the LIVE data readings from the MAF & MAP in "KPA"?? idle and light load?

ill be sure to try and run more scans when i get the time/weather to do so gentlemen i appreciate it. Again just learning how to dick with my scanner so allow me some gettin used to time.

In the mean time, just for my curiosity. in the far 3 year future i plan on doing the whole cam swap AFM delete. Does that action seem to clear up these problems that i see me and others are having?
 

Kraig

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It’ll clear up any AFM-related problems and the tune will take care of some other issues (adjust idle, torque management, etc)
 

NEECAPR

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I know its been posted ad nausea, but as i have lurked and searched the other related topics, i have yet to find a cause/solution. so here goes.
-TB is clean
-no cracks/voids along intake
-wires are new ac delco brand
-TOAD is reading no misfires in any cylinder
-no CEL, no DTC's
-propane torch along intake, no changes in RPMs

symptoms
-rough idle in drive, at stop lights, stops signs, etc. No effect on drive performance/ no hard shifts
-rough idle in park ONLY when AC is on full blast, turn AC off, rough idle goes away but only in park.
-AC check shows it is fully charged, but it takes about 20 mins of actual driving to start to feel cold.

im in the process of checking for AC leaks, none found yet. what am i missing here?

Hello Members,
I only recently joined the forum so I just saw for the first time that rough idle is a frequent problem. Sorry I didn't see it sooner. I've had lots of experience with rough idles in our 1999 Yukon that may match your problems even though great difference in vehicle model dates. So, I can give you some very real things to watch for--and may apply to some pickups as well. From initial purchase--probably a mistake--the idle has ranged from a slight lope when we bought it used to dead smooth now.

Of three major problems we had, the first was big, not just a lope--and expensive--diagnostics by highly experienced technician. Cost a lot to have him look down through and think out all the DTCs leading to suggestion that there may be a problem with one or two of the injector nozzles. So, I bought new DELCOs and tore it down. Surprise--maybe you too--the existing nozzles were merely loaded with ash in the skirts below the nozzle orifice. This area has the skirt only about 1 mm high and about 5-6 mm in diameter. What had happened is the GMC dealer who sold us the vehicle had been using trash oil of some sort on our four oil changes. Then I changed oil using good, clean, detergent Mobil Super and all the garbage poured forth. We made it about 10 miles before the engine was really, clearly sick. After tear down, cleaning the loose crud out of the skirts took about thirty seconds each with a wooden toothpick. On this 1999 5.7 model the PCV discharge points directly at the ports of cyls 5 & 7 and those were the dirty nozzles.
----So might you be having this problem??!!

Next, and this also was REALLY big, the plug for number 7 always ran cold plus the engine always consumed slight amounts of coolant. So after one final try of snugging the one left, rear accessible lower manifold tie-down bolt, the manifold/head gasket squeezed out of place dumping coolant straight into the valley. We shouldn't have tried to drive it home, but, at that time my wallet and bank account were both on empty. Tear down again found the wayward gasket--right at the rear of number 7 where the head has a port, but, the lower manifold doesn't. Machinist straight edge showed the head straight/flat, but, the manifold face warped about 1/32" upward. (Can't explain this!!) I cautiously used a brand new flat mill file to dress out the crown of the bow forward to about half way to the front of the manifold, hoping for enough 'spring' in the manifold to take care of the rest. Roughed up the gasket faces, back together, had to reset all timing to factory defaults---and it idled dead smooth. Had to look at the tachometer to make sure the engine wasn't already running. (Our 2017 Terrain does this check for you just in case someone's mind is on their cell phone, not the car!!
---Are your symptoms in here?

Finally item three, I've been using fuel system cleaners--best results with Gumout and Berryman's Chemtool--to help the nozzles stay clean and make full pattern flow at idle. Really does work well. Then, I used a bit~ half pint~ of that magic Ellixer, Marvel Mystery additive to try to clean up the lifters. It did that plus stopped burning oil, plus mostly stopped dripping oil. Doesn't use oil now! I've become sloppy about the fuel system cleaners because it doesn't seem to need them to idle smoothly. I'm thinking that, along with eliminated oil blow-by, it's doing less compression blow-by and slowing down the crankcase vent flow that's aimed at 5 & 7 ports.

Couldn't be happier with the car's performance. The past 70K miles have been pretty good. 207,000 on it now, and it's really looking like rust will be the fatal element.

If I can help anyone with clearer details, please ask. Once I cleared all the flimsy parts off the beast, it's been well worth having---good utility, rides like a buckboard, keeps you awake on long, back road trips!!

Regards,
NEECAPR
 

BG1988

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****....well thats good to know partner. i see a tech 2 is 200-400 bucks give or take and looks like a 475 Hart communicator. i absolutely hate working with those but if its something will help that i can add to my toolbox, so be it. but that purchase will have to wait for a min.





ill be sure to try and run more scans when i get the time/weather to do so gentlemen i appreciate it. Again just learning how to dick with my scanner so allow me some gettin used to time.

In the mean time, just for my curiosity. in the far 3 year future i plan on doing the whole cam swap AFM delete. Does that action seem to clear up these problems that i see me and others are having?
is the honey cone damaged?

i would inspect it might have damaged it even if it's cracked it will not give perfect air flow to the sensor..



what is the KPA reading idle? (i prefer the KPa reading to the PSI as it seems incorrectly when reading from the reader)

it should be 97 or 98 idle
 
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gpracer1

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After my left OEM engine mount let go last year due to a smashed gas pedal, I felt the pop/bump when it shifted into second.
After replacing with a Hummer mount, I could feel more engine vibration at idle vs the OEM fluid filled one. Maybe the fluid has leaked out of yours....on the way to being broken soon.
Look for fluid residue or stains under mounts on frame.
 
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cplurbz

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Thread resurrection.

slowly getting back to doing minimal troubleshooting. got a small vid as i dont think im going to nail down the idle problem unless i get the all knowing all seeing tech 2 device. So, im trying to see what i can do about my wonky AC problem as i have some experience in this field. plus i have a video.


so for those going "what the hell am i looking at". i have a can of ac pro hooked up and was just using it to check the pressure, which was reading low. i did not add any because if it was that low, i wouldn't be cooling at all instead of just barely. so im just using it as reference. but as the video goes-
1. pressure reading low
2. apply some power
3. pressure jumps, compressor kicks in im guessing buuuut it should already be running so....
4. cab lights dim

ive had to troubleshoot AC problems on 3 other cars of mine. none of them did this crap, so your guesses are welcome.
-car cools but not to 60 as its set to, more like 70.
-compressor turning no binding
-tentioner spins, no noise or bounce
-front aspirator was dirty as hell, cleaned it, no change, cant check it cause, no tech 2
-cabin air filter retro fit, coils were clean.
-there is nothing leaking under this car. there is no oil from anything, no staining from anywhere. literally the cleanest undercarriage of all that ive owned.

thanks again guys.
 

gpracer1

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It's very hard to diagnose an AC problem without gauges that read both low and high side pressures.
You need actual numbers like 30 psi low and 220 high, etc to troubleshoot.......green and yellow isn't going to cut it.
Hold it at a steady 1200 rpm and see what the gauges read with AC on high, recirc.
 

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