Aftermarket Magnaride Bouncing

[Scheme1]

Old school mechanic here, I recently purchased an aftermarket suspension kit w/Magnaride struts. Simple procedure changing shocks & struts, it used to be.

Well, changing the rear air shocks wasn’t really a problem. Although, the Stabilatrak & ABS light came on afterwards. And, after research, I found I inadvertently disconnected the ABS sensor on the psngr side when taking out the upper bolt by feel. ‍

Well, a few days later I replaced the front Magnaride struts and the ride felt GREAT, given I drove around for six months or more with a shot suspension system. A few days later the front end became bouncy over the littlest of bumps. I was floored. Simple job. What I’d do wrong? I jacked the vehicle up, took of the bolts off, and disconnected the sensor. I replaced the struts being careful reconnecting the sensors. What I do wrong? I figured after connecting the ABS sensor my ride would be fine. Didn’t happen.

So, I took myself to school. I went to YouTube University where I refreshed myself on the procedure. Every post I viewed no one mentioned disconnecting the battery. Yes, I was familiar with… but no one mentioned it and I didn’t do. Was/is that the issue? If I disconnected and reconnect it now with an attempt to reset the system, would that fix the bouncy ride? Would I be creating other problems by disconnecting.. If I take it to a dealer I’m sure they’ll recommend purchasing OEM equipment. They probably wouldn’t mention a recalibration, if that would help. Anyone have any advice or insight? Thanks!

 

[Miami-Dade]

@Scheme1 You need to put down what year,model etc so the members here can help you and then this post can go in the proper section.

Welcome from NYC!

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Knocking off the electrical connector while messing with the shock's top bolt is a very common issue. I had it myself, when I replaced my shocks.

I never disconnected the battery when I replaced my shocks, and I did not have the issue that you are now dealing with.

Unfortunately, I do not have a solution to your front bouncy ride issue.

 

[Scheme1]

Old school mechanic here, I recently purchased an aftermarket suspension kit w/Magnaride struts. Simple procedure changing shocks & struts, it used to be.

Well, changing the rear air shocks wasn’t really a problem. Although, the Stabilatrak & ABS light came on afterwards. And, after research, I found I inadvertently disconnected the ABS sensor on the psngr side when taking out the upper bolt by feel. ‍

Well, a few days later I replaced the front Magnaride struts and the ride felt GREAT, given I drove around for six months or more with a shot suspension system. A few days later the front end became bouncy over the littlest of bumps. I was floored. Simple job. What I’d do wrong? I jacked the vehicle up, took of the bolts off, and disconnected the sensor. I replaced the struts being careful reconnecting the sensors. What I do wrong? I figured after connecting the ABS sensor my ride would be fine. Didn’t happen.

So, I took myself to school. I went to YouTube University where I refreshed myself on the procedure. Every post I viewed no one mentioned disconnecting the battery. Yes, I was familiar with… but no one mentioned it and I didn’t do. Was/is that the issue? If I disconnected and reconnect it now with an attempt to reset the system, would that fix the bouncy ride? Would I be creating other problems by disconnecting.. If I take it to a dealer I’m sure they’ll recommend purchasing OEM equipment. They probably wouldn’t mention a recalibration, if that would help. Anyone have any advice or insight? Thanks!

@Scheme1 You need to put down what year,model etc so the members here can help you and then this post can go in the proper section.

Welcome from NYC!

Thanks, Miami-Dade!

 

[Scheme1]

Thanks, Miami-Dade!

My apologies forum, my Tahoe is an 07 LTS 5.3 4x4

 

[Doubeleive]

My apologies forum, my Tahoe is an 07 LTS 5.3 4x4

you could try a ALC trim reset if you have a tech2 or compatible scanner, but based on your report to me it sounds like the struts are no longer working as intended, if they are indeed oem "compatible" you can see the shock activation live data again with a tech2 or compatible scanner.
without the tech2 or viewing the live data there is no real way of telling what is happening other than maybe "defective"
there is no other logical reason they would work fine for a few days and then suddenly not, unless you are getting current "service ***" errors in the dic.
if the issue is instead the rear shocks being "over-inflated" that could be a air pump issue. when the rear shocks are rock hard inflated that's going to create a rough ride.
you can reach down there and give them a squeeze, they shouldn't be rock hard, they should have a little give to them. hard to judge that online of course

 

[Scheme1]

Knocking off the electrical connector while messing with the shock's top bolt is a very common issue. I had it myself, when I replaced my shocks.

I never disconnected the battery when I replaced my shocks, and I did not have the issue that you are now dealing with.

Unfortunately, I do not have a solution to your front bouncy ride issue.

Thanks, Joseph Garcia. You’ve helped. Until I hear others and/or the dealer, I’d learn towards defective parts.

 

[Scheme1]

you could try a ALC trim reset if you have a tech2 or compatible scanner, but based on your report to me it sounds like the struts are no longer working as intended, if they are indeed oem "compatible" you can see the shock activation live data again with a tech2 or compatible scanner.
without the tech2 or viewing the live data there is no real way of telling what is happening other than maybe "defective"
there is no other logical reason they would work fine for a few days and then suddenly not, unless you are getting current "service ***" errors in the dic.
if the issue is instead the rear shocks being "over-inflated" that could be a air pump issue. when the rear shocks are rock hard inflated that's going to create a rough ride.
you can reach down there and give them a squeeze, they shouldn't be rock hard, they should have a little give to them. hard to judge that online of course

Thanks! I’ll recheck the airbags. Initially they were felt firm. Unfortunately, my display isn’t functioning. The truck is due for a shop visit this week. A shop’s preliminary scan (the one they do when you drive in) indicated no suspension codes. I’m praying an ALC Trim reset will be the answer, if I’m unable to do it from advice given here.

 

[Doubeleive]

Thanks! I’ll recheck the airbags. Initially they were felt firm. Unfortunately, my display isn’t functioning. The truck is due for a shop visit this week. A shop’s preliminary scan (the one they do when you drive in) indicated no suspension codes. I’m praying an ALC Trim reset will be the answer, if I’m unable to do it from advice given here.

firm is good, you should also hear the pump run on a key cycle "most of the time" according to GM, there may be instances where it does not activate each key cycle.
if you listen closely to the pump by the drivers rear wheel and do a auto-start you should hear a brief exhale by the pump just before it runs, then after the vehicle is parked, shut off and it has sat for a minute or so you may hear another brief exhale.
if the shocks feel really hard that could be a sign of the relief valve on the pump not working then it just inflates them to crazy psi and the result is a rough bumpy ride.
you could also take it a for a 5-10 minute drive, park on a level surface, leave it running and reach under there and feel the rear shocks they should still be "firm" if they are very squishy that could indicate a leak somewhere. low psi on the rear shocks though would make the rear left/right sway worse rather than create a bumpy ride, unless they were completely deflated perhaps.

 

[petethepug]

What are aftermarket MagRide?

Brand name and hopefully you paid with credit card