AFM

[Amp653]

I’ve read up on this on internet and here. My question is:
Is it possible or recommended to turn this on once off? Motor has all maintenance records available and head gaskets, lifters, cam, heater core and AC evap were all done. I know the last two have nothing to do with it but just listing records.
I thought with all the highway driving it may work for me to drop cylinders while there.
Thanks in advance

 

[iamdub]

I’ve read up on this on internet and here. My question is:
Is it possible or recommended to turn this on once off? Motor has all maintenance records available and head gaskets, lifters, cam, heater core and AC evap were all done. I know the last two have nothing to do with it but just listing records.
I thought with all the highway driving it may work for me to drop cylinders while there.
Thanks in advance

If yours is at least an '11, you can rest more easily since those had updated AFM parts. Or, if yours is an '07-'10, did they use the updated parts when those were replaced? Why were they replaced- AFM failure? Regardless of the year, you should keep clean oil in it. This means you use synthetic and do NOT go by the OLM. My experience shows the oil to start getting dirty at around 5K miles. But, the fuel used, environment, condition of engine, driving style and other factors affect oil life and cleanliness. Keeping clean oil in the engine is the best you can do for the AFM system.

IMO, you have two options: You could disable it now or just roll with it and disable it at the first sign of issue, if you ever have any. This is most often a ticking lifter (usually just from a cold start) or sticking solenoids. When slowing down to a stop from a slow speed, the engine will rattle like it's about to stall then it'll suddenly clear up and idle smoothly. This is AFM staying engaged for too long. Some don't get the pleasure of the warning of a ticking lifter.

If it were mine, I'd just disable it with a tune. It'll never be missed. In this generation of AFM, there are too many factors required for it to be engaged so it's rarely ever on and, when it is, it's for very short periods. This is especially true for highway driving. Unless you drive for miles and miles at a time, at speeds slower than 70MPH, with no headwind, no traffic and no inclines, AFM will rarely engage. Even then, the dollar or two you're saving from each tankful will never amount to the cost of an engine repair or replacement should the system fail. The extra oil consumed due to AFM reduces these "savings" even further.

My recommendation is to get a reputable tune from someone such as Black Bear. There are others but BB is the default/safe bet. Besides disabling AFM, cleaning up the trans and throttle characteristics would vastly improve drivability while prolonging trans life. If such a full tune isn't in your budget, you can send your PCM >HERE< and have it disabled for about $60 all-in. A handheld tuner can do it, but the tunes on them are kind of a waste for what they cost.

 

[tom3]

Does your machine have an actual kill switch to disable the AFM? I kill the DFM on our '19 if I'm going to be cruising around town for a while. But I have to shift to low range and select the higher gears and if I go to 6 it goes back to the normal operation. I don't like the little gizmos in those hydraulic lifters.

 

[Amp653]

If yours is at least an '11, you can rest more easily since those had updated AFM parts. Or, if yours is an '07-'10, did they use the updated parts when those were replaced? Why were they replaced- AFM failure? Regardless of the year, you should keep clean oil in it. This means you use synthetic and do NOT go by the OLM. My experience shows the oil to start getting dirty at around 5K miles. But, the fuel used, environment, condition of engine, driving style and other factors affect oil life and cleanliness. Keeping clean oil in the engine is the best you can do for the AFM system.

IMO, you have two options: You could disable it now or just roll with it and disable it at the first sign of issue, if you ever have any. This is most often a ticking lifter (usually just from a cold start) or sticking solenoids. When slowing down to a stop from a slow speed, the engine will rattle like it's about to stall then it'll suddenly clear up and idle smoothly. This is AFM staying engaged for too long. Some don't get the pleasure of the warning of a ticking lifter.

If it were mine, I'd just disable it with a tune. It'll never be missed. In this generation of AFM, there are too many factors required for it to be engaged so it's rarely ever on and, when it is, it's for very short periods. This is especially true for highway driving. Unless you drive for miles and miles at a time, at speeds slower than 70MPH, with no headwind, no traffic and no inclines, AFM will rarely engage. Even then, the dollar or two you're saving from each tankful will never amount to the cost of an engine repair or replacement should the system fail. The extra oil consumed due to AFM reduces these "savings" even further.

My recommendation is to get a reputable tune from someone such as Black Bear. There are others but BB is the default/safe bet. Besides disabling AFM, cleaning up the trans and throttle characteristics would vastly improve drivability while prolonging trans life. If such a full tune isn't in your budget, you can send your PCM >HERE< and have it disabled for about $60 all-in. A handheld tuner can do it, but the tunes on them are kind of a waste for what they cost.

Thanks for info. It’s already disabled and is a ‘11. My tranny seems so hang up a minute when shifting initially on take off when engine is cold. Once it warms up it goes away. It was suggested it drop the pan, replace gasket and only fill up what was removed at the time. The engine work was completed prior to be buying it from dealer. It was a private agency and according to the guy with the low mileage they would have kept it but the switched vehicle colors

 

[iamdub]

Thanks for info. It’s already disabled and is a ‘11. My tranny seems so hang up a minute when shifting initially on take off when engine is cold. Once it warms up it goes away. It was suggested it drop the pan, replace gasket and only fill up what was removed at the time. The engine work was completed prior to be buying it from dealer. It was a private agency and according to the guy with the low mileage they would have kept it but the switched vehicle colors

I misread your first question, but the same applies. New parts plus it being disabled would make me suspect that it had a failure. It also might be disabled because it was deleted, as in, non-AFM cam and lifters. I'd leave it off. You might save a buck per tankful, at best. You'll never miss it.