Ac problems

[Chris2144]

Wasn't getting any replies in the interior section so I'm posting here. I'm just wondering if there is anything else I need to look at or if it's just my compressor. When I tackle this i plan on replacing the orfice tube expansion valve accumulator compressor

Ok it's been a while since I've been on here buying a house new job all the craziness going on today so yea.

Anyhow I've been having ac problems for over a year now. It started with the rear ac stopped blowing cold I took apart the hvac unit and found that with the fan off the core would very slowly get cold. As soon as the fan is on it cant stay cold so I figured it was probably the expansion valve clogged up as there is a mesh screen in there I put it back together and and said I'll deal with it later. So several months later the compressor started grinding intermitently and then turned into all the time. Now I have the problem of the compressor wont engage so I put a gauge on it and without it being engaged the low side is at 50 psi I bleed some off and the compressor engaged. But as soon as I give it throttle the psi rapidly drops and the compressor shifts off. I jumped the pressure switch to see if it would stay on and it doesnt.

So at idle the pressure doesn't drop at all but when I increase rpm it does. Now it has done this for a while and the front ac was blowing cold.

Is there something else that I need to check. Why does the compressor shut off even if I have the switch bridged

 

[exp500]

Are you guessing at a repair Chris? Want me to also? Put your gauges on, measure hi/lo and OAT, condenser temp, air vent temp, receiver/dryer temp.and anything else in system. Compressor running and off. Or just throw in another can and see if $5.00 fixes it. See lo pressure switch. And look for leak. If you wait until compressor fails, which it sounds like from your description- A proper repair is new condenser,receiver/dryer, orfice tube, compressor.......

 

[OR VietVet]

Same as above and flush the system while apart. Plus, no where in your post do I see any vehicle info. Are you of the opinion that each and every 2000 to 2006 Tahoe, Yukon and Escalade are all the SAME?


We recommend that you put all your rig(s) info in your signature so we all don’t have to guess at year, make, model, engine size, trans, rear axle locker…….etc. While you may have posted pertinent info in your first post, you may forget to do it again and the info is needed by us anyway. Makes it way easier on all members that attempt to help, to have that info right up front. It is also recommended that you take a pic of your RPO codes, on the inside cover of the glove box, and post that image in your signature. All this info will greatly help those that will try to help with a problem.


If there is any other info, like upgrades, mods or recent mechanical/maintenance work done, that would be helpful in any post as well. Too many times a question is asked by the poster and after about 10 responses we find out that the poster has done recent work to attempt to fix the problem or work that was done that SEEMS not related to the problem.

 

[Chris2144]

My bad it's a 2002 tahoe z71 5.3 flex fuel.
Also I did put a cheapo gauge on it because I don't own a manifold gauge. The low side pressure is at 50 and when the compressor kicks on it drops maybe 1 or 2 psi at idle when I increase the rpm it rapidly drops and the compressor turns off. I then jumped the low side switch but the compressor still does the same thing. If it was the pressure going to low jumping the switch should keep the compressor on correct.

Thinking that I thought the high side switch was turning the compressor off due to a restriction and building to much pressure so I jumped that as well to see what would happen and I have the same result. I understand this is not the proper way to diagnose but again I dont have a manifold gauge although I know I should go invest in it now.

My question is is there anything else that I need to look at before I go buy all the parts I noted. Also I will be flushing the whole thing.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

Might consider a kit. This includes what you need including the condenser and the expansion valve for $255 plus on RA. Less 5% with the discount code
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10611084&cc=1380372&jsn=990&_nck=ZExt1ysfqhqWnq+EvUNdS3Txyey60IDtnjPWF5UU9J0BWQv7pvqZbkEUk86+AYIh3BPX4eQfsOgbpywBoCdgeVjBwr5FgZ/CglYgG3ogBLNYaA1YXrjVsSQBsxjTF3xOpxi9gkD9Nb5lLPscBRapB+udMGEFUGKqEa67oRdlCXqElwBZVFNudcK/QsJPwlfx5nzSdyyF/kMHuXwKv87M02NlcXPQBHQ8s4sLr0CiFXcmwQuB1ZubMYWnLUEjtX2PMwpiWszbeC9Oxist5Q/utP+OOoX/Dman18BY5aKhXS7de/yYz5Xsp1FJxTKinmtAUzkt9dFrFxBvy/TuHcMi1vAj4omFUjfp

 

[Chris2144]

Man that's awesome I just priced everything out at oriellys like 2 months ago and it was going to be almost 500 bucks. That just saves me alot of money.
Thanks

 

[OR VietVet]

You should go to RA and get the flush kit too.

 

[Chris2144]

Yea i already planned on that. Also in there notes it says you have to have proof of a flush kit to validate any future warranty claim.