ABS & Service Stabilitrak

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jrobie79

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2011 Escalade: ABS & Traction Control Lights are on & Service Stabilitrak message on DIC.

background: I was working in Florida for several months and left my Escalade parked at home while I was down there, when I came back the battery was dead, so I jumped it, and since then my ABS & traction control lights are lit on my instrument cluster and I get the "Service Stabilitrak" message on the DIC. I've been poking around a bit and came across some possible reasons being that the dead battery causes the electronics to go haywire, not sure how, but that's what I've read, which could be the reason the lights are on. I checked all the battery cables and tightened them down, but the lights are still there.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what to test and how to diagnose?
 

Doubeleive

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have you tried disconnecting the battery again and while it is disconnected put the key in and turn it to start a couple times, turn the headlight switch on/off a few times, hit the brake pedal a few times then hook the battery back up, this will kill any static power that could have a caused a problem. if not then you might need to get it scanned with a tech2 and see what it is telling you a regular code reader wont work for stabiltrac errors unless you get lucky and find it to be a abs wheel sensor (reader must be capable of reading abs codes).
 

ivin74

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Get the speed sensors checked out, the's one on each wheel. The fronts are on the hubs and the rears are on the rear end. Someone with a tech 2 can read the abs codes.
 
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jrobie79

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have you tried disconnecting the battery again and while it is disconnected put the key in and turn it to start a couple times, turn the headlight switch on/off a few times, hit the brake pedal a few times then hook the battery back up, this will kill any static power that could have a caused a problem. if not then you might need to get it scanned with a tech2 and see what it is telling you a regular code reader wont work for stabiltrac errors unless you get lucky and find it to be a abs wheel sensor (reader must be capable of reading abs codes).

I've been driving it 3/4 days a week for about a month since it started, I'm guessing this wouldn't help much now right?
 

swathdiver

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2011 Escalade: ABS & Traction Control Lights are on & Service Stabilitrak message on DIC.

background: I was working in Florida for several months and left my Escalade parked at home while I was down there, when I came back the battery was dead, so I jumped it, and since then my ABS & traction control lights are lit on my instrument cluster and I get the "Service Stabilitrak" message on the DIC. I've been poking around a bit and came across some possible reasons being that the dead battery causes the electronics to go haywire, not sure how, but that's what I've read, which could be the reason the lights are on. I checked all the battery cables and tightened them down, but the lights are still there.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what to test and how to diagnose?

Drive the truck for a few hours or put the battery on a slow charge, jumping it is not enough to make the system completely happy. Then clear all the codes and take it from there. It's possible then that the battery will need replacing.
 
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jrobie79

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Drive the truck for a few hours or put the battery on a slow charge, jumping it is not enough to make the system completely happy. Then clear all the codes and take it from there. It's possible then that the battery will need replacing.

Been driving it for a month now, I figured it would just go away as it was the dead battery, but that likely isn't going to happen, so now I need to fix it
 

Doubeleive

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Drive the truck for a few hours or put the battery on a slow charge, jumping it is not enough to make the system completely happy. Then clear all the codes and take it from there. It's possible then that the battery will need replacing.
the procedure I explained will take 5 minutes of your time, I figure it's worth a try, these trucks are power "finicky" if I disconnect my battery I have to follow the procedure or it wont even start, the security module in my truck doesn't like the battery being disconnected, it will pop up once with the security error on the DIC and then it wont even respond, dead to the world unless I do what I explained above. If the battery power is low or the cables or connection is bad they can do all kinds of weird stuff, I can tell when my battery gets even slightly low because the rear hatch wont latch it will look like it is but if you just barely bump it then it finishes locking
 
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jrobie79

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the procedure I explained will take 5 minutes of your time, I figure it's worth a try, these trucks are power "finicky" if I disconnect my battery I have to follow the procedure or it wont even start, the security module in my truck doesn't like the battery being disconnected, it will pop up once with the security error on the DIC and then it wont even respond, dead to the world unless I do what I explained above. If the battery power is low or the cables or connection is bad they can do all kinds of weird stuff, I can tell when my battery gets even slightly low because the rear hatch wont latch it will look like it is but if you just barely bump it then it finishes locking

I'll give it a shot after work today and report back
 
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jrobie79

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the procedure I explained will take 5 minutes of your time, I figure it's worth a try, these trucks are power "finicky" if I disconnect my battery I have to follow the procedure or it wont even start, the security module in my truck doesn't like the battery being disconnected, it will pop up once with the security error on the DIC and then it wont even respond, dead to the world unless I do what I explained above. If the battery power is low or the cables or connection is bad they can do all kinds of weird stuff, I can tell when my battery gets even slightly low because the rear hatch wont latch it will look like it is but if you just barely bump it then it finishes locking


No change, looks like I'm in the market for a tech 2
 

The_Burban

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Why not replace the battery? Or at the very least get it tested?

Seems like a voltage issue more than anything else.
 

swathdiver

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No change, looks like I'm in the market for a tech 2

They're not three grand anymore, you can get one off ebay or from China/Hong Kong in about a week.

Make sure it has the Candi module and 33.004 software and it will come with a bunch of adapters and test stuff and maybe the old software for computers. But for the purpose of diagnosing your problem you won't need the latter. Average is about $350 delivered last time I looked.
 

swathdiver

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Why not replace the battery? Or at the very least get it tested?

Seems like a voltage issue more than anything else.

Yep, when my daughter ran our battery down, all the dash lights were on, it threw over 40 trouble codes and the navigation screen was so bright, like it was demon possessed! I happened to have the Tech-2 with me that night and cleared the codes and cycled the ignition a few times and we went home. The next day we took a long drive and the alternator took 3 hours to fully charge the battery while we were driving.
 
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jrobie79

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Why not replace the battery? Or at the very least get it tested?

Seems like a voltage issue more than anything else.

Voltage is steady, I have an OBDII scanner that displays the running voltage, and it's around 14ish.

It's never had a problem starting or anything except that one time it sat for like 7 weeks
 

The_Burban

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I know what you think. I am encouraging you to try outside what you think you know.

I too had a battery that was just fine. I too had the same messages.

Good luck.
 

wjburken

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Voltage is steady, I have an OBDII scanner that displays the running voltage, and it's around 14ish.

It's never had a problem starting or anything except that one time it sat for like 7 weeks

I know what you think. I am encouraging you to try outside what you think you know.

I too had a battery that was just fine. I too had the same messages.

Good luck.

I get that your OBDII reader is reading 14V. What is the voltage across your battery? Have you measured that with a multimeter? I believe the OBDII reading measures what your alternator is putting out but your battery could have a bad cell causing a voltage drop or the alternator’s voltmeter could be off. It’s a simple thing to check.
 

Kraig

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If your OBD scanner is not seeing any codes (you didn’t say yay or nay) take it to an auto parts store that has a scanner that can see all the modules.
Oh, and I also vote for the battery might still be flakey and you might want to think about doing the Big3 mod.
 
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jrobie79

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I get that your OBDII reader is reading 14V. What is the voltage across your battery? Have you measured that with a multimeter? I believe the OBDII reading measures what your alternator is putting out but your battery could have a bad cell causing a voltage drop or the alternator’s voltmeter could be off. It’s a simple thing to check.

If your OBD scanner is not seeing any codes (you didn’t say yay or nay) take it to an auto parts store that has a scanner that can see all the modules.
Oh, and I also vote for the battery might still be flakey and you might want to think about doing the Big3 mod.

I have not checked across the terminals, I'll do that after work, and no codes come up on the reader

In regards to the big 3 I just printed out the diy from this forum and will tackle that this weekend
 

petethepug

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It’s a long shot, but we had the same symptoms when #7 ignition wire got unplugged. You or anybody else been pulling on any of the HT leads.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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