99 Tahoe troubles

[mikecw99]

I just bought my 99 tahoe 2dr 2w with 184 k for $1600 about a week ago the day after I bought it the rear u-joint started making noise so I replaced both u-joints well I didnt have one of the front clips seated all the way so it threw the driveshaft and begins all my problems now my CEL is throwing a p1345 code and my abs light came on and my pedal goes almost all the way to the floor and to top it off my drive shaft is pretty beat up and everyone is telling me that the only driveshaft that will fit it is out of a 2dr which are hard to come by and very costly and i dont have alot of money to work with. Ok I know I have dropped alot of questions on all of you but I am desperate for answers and my local auto stores employees are idiots and cant seem to help so I am here at your mercy. now the p1345 code I know is camshaft to crankshaft position correlatation fault but what does that actually mean ? and the brakes would the driveshaft comming off cause all of this could it have cut a wire or something ?

 

[GMC Yukon]

OK for the driveshaft go to http://car-part.com/ I bought 1 for mine for $65.00 plus shippng... Good Luck!

 

[SunlitComet]

http://www.sunlitcomet.com/pdf/automotive/tahoe/98-99/1999-Tahoe-p1345.pdf

The driveshaft is far back enough that it should not effect a wire related to cam correlation. perhap the shaft hit a wire bundle shorting out some components. But still. The abs/brake system is the only one you mentioned that would probably be effected by a thown shaft. Do you crush a brake line?

 

[mikecw99]

Thank you GMC I will check them out no one around here has one and they want $ 150 to order me a used one and have to pay for it up front sight unseen

---------- Post added at 07:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:41 AM ----------

I checked all the brake lines and could not find any damage but messing around with it yesterday the ABS light went off but the the brakes still go to the floor I have 2 new callipers im putting on to day and 2 new wheel cylinders 2 flush the system bleed it out and hopefully will correct the problem. And SUNLITCOMET I read the thread about GULLYMANS p1345 code problems and am going to check some of those things out today but one question with 184 k on her could it siply be the timming chain stretched se im used to working on older vehicles all these new sensors scare the hell outta me. thanks for the help and will post if the new callipers and wheel cylinders and flush fix the brake problem

 

[SunlitComet]

I have doubts about the timing chain being the issue. I have not seen or heard of one OBD2 Hoe with a chain problem. Usually it is a ground wire, loose sensor, screwed up Crank sensor or out of sync issue. You will need a scanner that can read Gm's "cam retard" data to fine tune it though.

 

[TigerEyz3]

Not that the timing chain is related to the problem you've discovered, but they do stretch a little over time (changed mine out when I was replacing the crank shaft seal - plus oil pan gasket and timing cover).

 

[mikecw99]

Well got the new callipers and wheel cylinders and flushed the lines and some pretty nasty brake fluid came out the pedal feels better but dont have a driveshaft to go test it out.


sunlitcomet what kind of scanner do I need to check the timming ?

I also checked all the wirring and couldnt find any cut wires or damaged so I guess tommorow I will pull the dist and check the gear .thanks again for everyones advice Im learning as Im going


Luckly I got my old trusty 79 chevy truck going again today so I can take my time on my Tahoe

 

[SunlitComet]

Caution, once you pull that distributor you will need the scanner to line it back up.

As far as the scanner goes do you want hand held or desktop/laptop PC based. PC based unit give you more for the money if you have a portable computer to use.

 

[mikecw99]

Damn I figured that if i pulled the dist and mrked it before i pulled i could just drop it back in the same place.

I have a spare laptop so I would want to go with the pc version so do they sell the program with the cables to hook it up or are they seperate

 

[TigerEyz3]

I've been able to get away with just marking it...using the same dist again. Since you're talking about replacing the distributor, you MIGHT be able to get by with just marking it as well. Potential problem being that you'll have a new distributor/gear that may not be exactly lined up tooth-for-tooth. Give it a shot. If that doesn't work, then you've got the timing game to play - it's all computer controlled on our rides.

 

[mikecw99]

Well if the gear was bad I was just going to replace the gear not the whole dist. But I may just wait and see if I can afford the scanner program for my laptop and see if it is in fact the timming or the 2 sensors crank or cam that are bad. And really it dosent matter what I do I still have to find a driveshaft first

 

[SunlitComet]

if you are of by two degrees you get the light.

for diagnostics:

http://www.scantool.net/scan-tools/pc-based/obdlink.html

By also the Scanxlpro and gm enhanced module for the cam retard (and loads of other) data. Total about $300. They will ship you the hardware. And will email you the activation keys for software which you download (palmerperformance.com). If you want to see how it works first just download and run as a trial I could also send you a log file off a 96 Hoe to read and interpret for your viewing pleasure.

 

[mikecw99]

Thanks sunlit it will probably be a couple of weeks before I have the money to buy it and looks like im going to have to get a book to learn how to read what all the info means LOL!!! . Also still trying to find a driveshaft for this thing and I want to get it first before I go any further I mean it would suck to get it running right and not be able to take her out

 

[SunlitComet]

As far as your distributor goes take off you cap and see how much play clockwise and counter CW there is and how much more as it starts to ride up on the cam gear. If you need tech info for your 99 a have an alldata subscription so I can pass info as needed. Did you download the software and run as a trial version yet?

 

[mikecw99]

No I havent dowloaded it yet probably this evening when i get off work so I will have time to play with it and I will check to see how much play is in the dist this evening to that is if it stops raining. This may be a dumb ? but would it hurt to pull the crank and cam sensors and clean them off if needed.

 

[SunlitComet]

Don't do it. May be check for loose wires but unless you get a code for it and misfiring or any scanner shows your engine speed fluctuating up to 2000 rpm when idleing and your tach is also showing idle leave the crank sensor alone. Otherwise you will have to make a trip to your local dealer for a relearn procedure. Maybe wiggle the cam sensor for looseness but it should not be dirty.

 

[mikecw99]

Ok I have checked for loose wires none that I could find. and when you say get a code for it will it have its own code for the cam and crank sensors or will they fall under the -P1345 code because i have that code now. Now if I change the crank sensor out after i get the scantool program will I be able to to do that relearn for it with the scantool ? Once I get my laptop complete wiped clean so it will only have the scantool on it I will be buying the program hopefully next week money permitting then I will be able to get going on this

 

[SunlitComet]

Negative ghost rider the software does does not support a bi-directional capability(You telling the computer what to do such as actuate a solenoid or go into a relearn procedure). Yet. They have it planned. The dealer can do it and maybe some really expensive scanners like snap-on and OTC. If you have the p1345 code without other separate cam or crank codes then your sensor are pulsing as the should, they are just not in alignment.

---------- Post added at 12:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:46 PM ----------

BTW if you did have to change the cranker it would still start and run but you may have some minor issues until the dealer gets to it.

 

[mikecw99]

Thanks sunlit you answered the question I was going to ask about wether it would run if I did change it.