98 tahoe weird miss?

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myR32

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First post here, so hello all. I am a German car guy who just picked up a 98 tahoe cheap for a DD and don't know much about it/ american cars for that matter.

Truck:98 tahoe LT 350 vortec 5.7 completly stock. 105k

Issue: When the truck is WARM here ar the symptoms.
When in P or N it idels smooth as silk. Quiet, nice:fc5716bd:
But, when it is in gear and I am on the brake at a red light, it shudders/misses/binds inconsistantly. with anywhere from 10-60 seconds between shudders/misses/binding. Also, I will be at a light, and all will be good for anywhere from 10-60seconds, then you can feel the car shudder/miss/binding once maybe twice, maybe 8 times, or sometimes not at all. It is pretty suttle, but noticable. It doesnt start doing this until the engine is warm. But it will start softly at first, but as the car gets warmer starts. It does not do this everytime I stop either. I might go 1-5 red lights with out it. then it will do it again, though I have noticed that as the weather warms up it get worse. Sometimes it will do it once or twice at a red light, then not at the next red light. The point is that it is super inconsistant. When is starts to do it, i have tried to kick it in to N and that smooths it right ou. So it is load related. With that said it all started last week when i hadd 700LB's of fryer oil in the truck for a 20 mile trip in 90 degree heat.

Next symptom is when the light turns green and i come off the brake to the gas, it will slightly buck/miss/shudder/bind for the first 2-3 feet/seconds then smooth out fine. That is more consistant, meaning it happens ALMOST every time i set off, weather is was "missing" while i was at the red light or not. So in other words, i will be on the brake, truck is puurring like a kitten, then i go to set off, and it shudders/bucks/misses/binds. But even this does not happen every time, and does not happen when the truck is cold. but after that first "miss" it drive great...until...

The next symptom happen around 30-70mph, but cruising. lets say i am going 55mph and i give it a little gass to keep it steady. it will buck a bit, maybe 2-3 times. If i go more them about 1/4 throttle, it is fine, if i floor it it is fine. This is also inconsistant, and worse when the truck/weather is warm.

Last symptom is as inconsistant as the rest, and that is a slight lack of power. Meaning it will drive strong, and fine, then will be down on power a bit under all driving condidtions, then back to fine and so on. there is no common freguency the the power lose and it is minimal, but i do notice it.

None of these symptoms happen when the truck is cold. It drives very well actually. If i had to put the 4 symptoms in order of frequency, i would say that the taking off from a red light shudder/miss/ bind happen the most frequently, then the Shudder/miss/binding while at the red light, followed by the cruising shudder/miss/bind. All garnished with spratic light loss of power here and there.

So far i have done thes relating to this prob...
-plugs, wires, (both not ac delco but i didnt know about that until recently, and the truck ran fine for 2-3 months with those in).

-Cleaned EGR valve a bit, but it was a bit sticky when i pulled it off so i gave it a Little PB blaster which seemed to help it not stick while it was out of the car and cool, but when hot with exhaust who knows.

-fuel filter

-fuel pressure test, this one was interesting cuz at idel it is at 54psi and a WOT it is at 60psi. From what i understand those are acceptible numbers, but the spec is 60-66psi. and it is consistant. Meaning when the car acts up, the fuel pressure is not drop or raise at all. I also tested the fuel pressure 3 moths ago when i got it, and it was the same numbers.

-Trans filter.

I have done a ton of other thing to the truck (alternator, batt, all brakes all around, brake lines, fuel fillerneck, swaybar enlinks, water pump, radiator etc) none of which i think have anything to do with this issue.

Today i plan on cleaning the maf and throttle body. will let you all know if that helps.

But today I started to think it may be trans related. May torque converter? would the shaking/shuddering/miss while at the red light dismiss that though?


If the TB and MAF cleaning dont do anything, my next step is back to plugs wires with ACD brand, rotor button, and dist cap. I will also check the distributor for shaft play while i am there.

I have been reading online for days, and alot of people have a lot of the same symptoms as me, but no one i have seen yet has the Red Light shudder/miss/bind. Issue. thats whats killing me. Amy help would be apprecitated.
 

SunlitComet

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fuel numbers sound fine but did you see the same when the vehicle acted up or were you able to test at that moment? inspect you plugs, wires and cap/rotor for physical damage and corrosion and measure resistance of wires. the brake switch circuit is normally closed when pedal is not pressed so if you disconnect it for testing purposes( you will loose brake lights during this time!) the application of tcc should be disabled. if switch were stuck closed on pedal depression it could apply clutch but that really stalls the engine not just random miss. you can also test the ignition coil when hot to check for breakdown of the internal parts from the heat.

0900c1528008ee04.jpg

1. reading should be infinite. If not replace the coil.
2. reading should be 0.1 ohms, if not replace the coil.
3. reading should be 5k-25k ohms, if not replace the coil.

try that stuff to start with.
 
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myR32

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Thanks for the reply. Will try that today.

And, yes i had the fuel pressure gauge taped to the window and was watching it in real time when the car was acting up and it was steady the whole time. no bouncing around at all.

So i cleaned the MAF and TB last night, and let me say what a differance! The truck runs soooo much better. Now with that said it was pretty cool this am on the way to work. Prob 58 when i got in the car and 65 by the time i parked it. I stopped a couple times and there was no misfire symptom at all. It did not stumble once when taking off from a red light. So that's good. Now i think the coolness of the weather is really what prevented that from happening, and i was on the highway for most of the trip, so i dont think 3-4 red lights is an honest assesment of if that problem is solved. It was running nice though. BUT still slightly down on power at times, and when i was getting off the high way on the ramp (slight incline) at 50mph and i gave it a little gas, it did buck twice about 5 seconds apart. So, either it was 2 issuse, and the stopped at a red light/take off stumbling issue was the Maf/TB, and the stumbling at crusing speed is something else. This is very unlikley, because they did start at the same time, but i will say that the redlight mis and take off stumble felt more like some kind of binding/ engine starving for air or fuel, while the highway conditions feels more like a traditional misfire.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.
 
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myR32

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turned out to be TPS. Took it off and the female part in the center had free play in it, and all but fell out of the housing. Hasn't been warm out yet but hasn't done it yet. Pretty sure that was it. thanks for the suggestions.
 
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myR32

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I lied. the low speed/stop symptoms are gone with the TPS fix, but the highway stumble is still happening.
:wtf:
 
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myR32

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Just kiddnign again. Both symptoms are still there.
 
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myR32

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Yeah sorry. mind is made up. Its still doing it.
 

cdaulton

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I've got a 99 Yukon with the same highway stumble. Mine seems to be worse when the a/c is on.
Is your Check Engine Light on? Mine is not so I don't have a good place to start looking. I was thinking TPS but now I'm not so sure.
 

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