97 Tahoe 2 door EZ Entry passenger seat problem

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Eman85

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I've got a 97 Tahoe 2 door and the 2nd stage of the EZ Entry seat doesn't work. The cable is broken and I can't find a replacement. Anyone have a part number for it? It's the cable on the left side of the seat that activates the lower tracks. Has anyone came up with a good workable hack? I made a rod up but if you're outside it's just too hard to pull it.
 

east302

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Here’s a link with parts diagrams but there are several to chose from.

https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/epc/chevrolet/54c-k/16/tc16-533/

This may be it (17) but I just don’t remember how it’s put together under there. Odds are pretty high that the assembly is the same across the 95-99 truck interiors, so a salvage yard may be worth checking out.

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68f722336b7f334402dbd0c2545a67af.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Eman85

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Yes, 17 is the cable I need. I also own a 98 extended cab and the cable on it is broken, has been since I owned it. I don't know if any of them lasted long. I'm going to do some searching with that part number and see what I come up with. Thanks for the illustration.
I really didn't even realize my extended cab had this until I pulled the seats to clean the interior. Didn't really need it as no one ever gets back there. On the Tahoe it's really nice for getting in the back.
 

YukonGTmaster

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Yes, 17 is the cable I need. I also own a 98 extended cab and the cable on it is broken, has been since I owned it. I don't know if any of them lasted long. I'm going to do some searching with that part number and see what I come up with. Thanks for the illustration.
I really didn't even realize my extended cab had this until I pulled the seats to clean the interior. Didn't really need it as no one ever gets back there. On the Tahoe it's really nice for getting in the back.


I just installed the EZ Cable Assy today on my 1997 Yukon GT. P/N 12383462. My original cable was frayed, and not operating the seat mechanism. One thing to note before you order parts: Check for “Rigging” of the cable at the inboard passenger seat rail beside the console. If you loosen the 8mm bolt where the cable attaches to the seat, and pull the cable assembly aft, and retighten the bolt, you may get lucky and pull the slack that has stretched the cable over the years. See pics.

96501330-BFDB-4190-8061-DEAB2B22EE54.jpeg E1836724-AC44-441D-AB58-1C51F7F74BBA.jpeg View attachment 278285
 
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Eman85

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The cable's broken on the one I'm working on. I've had the seat out and lubed all of the tracks. I haven't had a chance to get a cable and repair it yet. My 98 K2500 has the same setup and the EZ entry doesn't work on it either, cable's broken on it too. I pulled that seat to check it out, never realized it had the second stage.
 

YukonGTmaster

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The cable's broken on the one I'm working on. I've had the seat out and lubed all of the tracks. I haven't had a chance to get a cable and repair it yet. My 98 K2500 has the same setup and the EZ entry doesn't work on it either, cable's broken on it too. I pulled that seat to check it out, never realized it had the second stage.
83848C37-998D-4A79-825C-7F80F48D1363.jpeg

Old vs New
 

drewfrost

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1998 Silverado ext. cab two door with captain seats......wanted to thank everyone for the photos and write ups on the problems with the easy entry passenger seat. I have a complete shop manual and it does not give you much information about the problem except that the cable it not tight. I believe that GM made this cable too long. What happens if that the cable flexes at the attachment point on the seat back and, over time, breaks the outer sheathing. The sheathing then gets caught up and binds the inner cable. NOT the best design, but mine has lasted 25 years. I was going to replace the part but didn't know if it was worth investing 50 bucks since it would break in the same spot again. The new part is made in China and I have read that it does not last long. I also read that someone attached a string pull and another made a pull handle instead of changing the cable. If you want to try that, you need to be pretty strong because there is a lot of tension needed to pull the locks open. What I ended up doing is trimming off the broken sheathing at the attachment point down to solid cable. By doing this, it lengthens the cable and you cannot get any tension. To solve this, I "shortened" the pull by placing a 6mm wire rope clamp on the end of the cable. The clamp made the pull about 1/4 to 3/8 inch shorter. The cable now pivots at the seat back attachment point and works. I don't know how long this will last, but I am hoping for the best.
 

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