95 Tahoe 4x4, 5.7l, tranny removal issue

[Big_Deddie]

OK - spent two days trying to work this thing out so I could rebuild it. OK, well about 3 hours Saturday and 5 hours Sunday.
Bottom portion of the bell housing is removed, exhaust has been disconnected, aluminum side plate (passenger side) removed and all wired connections disengaged. The remaining 6 bolts on the bell housing have been removed as well (3 on each side).
The transmission cross member has been removed. I elected not to remove the transfer case - mainly because I wasn't sure if it just unbolted or what.
The only thing, that I can see, still holding the transmission is the hose that goes down the driiver side down to the transfer case. there is also a wire clip still attached there - but these will be easier to access once I let the transmission down a little bit.

The transmission has been backed off of the guide pins. It still WON'T come down.

I have the truck on jack stands and am using a 3 ton jack to work the transmission out. The transfer case is resting on the perch cross member for the tension rod suspension (I am tired as hell and know that probably isn't the right word for the suspension).
My plan is to lower the front down to a resting point and then work the transfer case down. I do not have a transmission jack and doing this all by myself.

Right now, the transmission will start to come down and then roll to the driver side like something is holding it on the passenger side but I can't find anything holding it.

This is not my first rodeo when removing a transmission - but it is my first Tahoe...what am I missing?

 

[SunlitComet]

Unbolt and slide off the tcase. It makes it easier. make sure you did take off the dipstick tube and any brace bars as well as the cooler lines.

 

[pistnbroke88]

hmm, ill guess all the torq converter bolts are out, also we will assume the T-case isnt making contact with the rear cross member. My advice pull the transfer case off its 5 or 6 bolts and will save you time if you're doing this all with jacks. if you hoist the trans up mid pan with the converter in it the trans will balance so removal and installation is (easier) vs if the transfer case is in it playing see-saw with the bell housing and body tunnel -This may be part of the issue- the trans should be able to move rearward if all 6? bolts and dipstick are out also if level it should back out 8-10 inches before it meets the body seam (driver) and o2 sensor (passenger).