8" WOOFERS in doors?

[Meccanoble]

I am curious how hard it would be to install 8" speakers in the front doors. I had this setup on an older Nissan Maxima and it required some cutting but the Tahoe is a bigger door and that OEM speaker bracket takes up some space. Anyone ever install an 8" in stock location without any custom work?

 

[drakon543]

well they make 6 3/4 subwoofers that would probably be an easier fit

 

[Meccanoble]

Thanks that sounds easier and probably can reach higher frequencies than 8". I'll look those up.

 

[drakon543]

i found some kicker 6 3/4 on bestbuys website. they aren't too popular as 8s 10s or 12s but they are out there.

 

[Meccanoble]

Yea i was looking at those too. I seen they only go up to .5 Khz frequency and my tweets would only do 2500+ so I think I'm going to go a different route. Didnt want to complicate system with a 3 way at this point. I actually have the 6.5" coax installed and they are ok but was thinking of going to the 6.75" since they are same price but not in store. Only difference is 40 hz min freq vs 6.5" are 43. I got tired of blowing speakers so went this route with warranty just to get by. But might order the others thinking they will do slightly better? The 6.5's are nothing compared to my PHD's.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Stay with the 6x" speakers in the door. The only to get good low frequency sounds is to have a separate speaker in a box, preferable tailored to the specific specifications of the speaker. A car/truck door is about as poor a natural speaker box as one could possibly design. ==>> An irregular shaped steel box, with lots of steel and plastic parts inside to vibrate constantly from the low frequency sounds.

 

[Meccanoble]

Stay with the 6x" speakers in the door. The only to get good low frequency sounds is to have a separate speaker in a box, preferable tailored to the specific specifications of the speaker. A car/truck door is about as poor a natural speaker box as one could possibly design. ==>> An irregular shaped steel box, with lots of steel and plastic parts inside to vibrate constantly from the low frequency sounds.

I thought that was the benefit of sound deadening? I had 8" Dynaudio 3 way in a old maxima and didnt have crazy rattle due to good deadening but at the same time, I'm used to some rattle. But I understand your concern.

I was thinking of those Kicker subs that are 6.75". They handle up to 1500 hz. I was thinking of using this with a 3.5" 2 way (midrange/tweet combo). Anyone ever install 3.5" tweets in stock a pillars?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I thought that was the benefit of sound deadening? I had 8" Dynaudio 3 way in a old maxima and didnt have crazy rattle due to good deadening but at the same time, I'm used to some rattle. But I understand your concern.

I was thinking of those Kicker subs that are 6.75". They handle up to 1500 hz. I was thinking of using this with a 3.5" 2 way (midrange/tweet combo). Anyone ever install 3.5" tweets in stock a pillars?

Yes, you are correct in that the application sound deadening materials within the door can greatly reduce, if not eliminate, rattles due to low frequency speaker vibrations, but typically the material is not attached to every metal surface within the door, due to accessibility and clearance issues. Further, there are specific design ratios of speaker box length, width, and depth that optimize sound reproduction, particularly for the lower frequency sounds, and the typical car/truck door inside dimensions are not even close to these optimal dimension ratios.

 

[91RS]

Buy some Audiofrog GB60’s. They don’t call them the best 8” midwoofer for nothing (hint: they’re actually 6”). I love mine.

 

[Meccanoble]

Just measured the BOSE grille on the a pillar and its over 4" inches wide. I think a 3.5" 2 way will fit in there with no problem. How about that with the 6.75" sub up front?

 

[Meccanoble]

Buy some Audiofrog GB60’s. They don’t call them the best 8” midwoofer for nothing (hint: they’re actually 6”). I love mine.

Trying to get something with warranty since these are the speakers I seem to blow the most....lol

 

[Bsharris2011]

Even with all of the sound deadening materials, some things can still rattle at certain frequencies, like the door locks or other moving metal components in the doors. With that being said, one great option could be these.
http://www.jlaudio.com/c5-650-car-audio-speakers-c5-speaker-systems-99104

I put the woofer component in all 4 doors, with a simple adapter ring readily available at best buy or Amazon, made by metro. I put the tweeters right into the stock dash and "D" pillar locations with only a bit of modifications and some metal strapping behind them for brackets. These woofers will go down to 48h and up to 5000h. So, the range is perfect. With the tweeters handling up to 25kh and then this sub,

http://www.jlaudio.com/cs113tg-tw5v2-2-car-audio-powerwedge-subwoofer-systems-93256

In the back, with it's own 500 watt amp. This is my current setup in my 2009, and the overall sound range and sound stage is phenomenal. I have also bypassed the factory Bose amp and use two separate smaller 4 channel 180 watt amps. One for the woofers in the doors and one for the tweeters. This way I could adjust the gain separately to adjust the sound stage up or down. The only thing I have going through the bose amp now is the chimes. And I re-routed that output to the center dash speaker. Even with this setup, the door locks will rattle slightly at certain frequencies but, a little volume fixes that!

 

[91RS]

If you’re blowing speakers regularly, your system isn’t setup properly.

 

[BG1988]

I am curious how hard it would be to install 8" speakers in the front doors. I had this setup on an older Nissan Maxima and it required some cutting but the Tahoe is a bigger door and that OEM speaker bracket takes up some space. Anyone ever install an 8" in stock location without any custom work?

if you want a woofer so badly get the one that fits under the center console...

 

[Meccanoble]

If you’re blowing speakers regularly, your system isn’t setup properly.

Its setup right, I'm just a cranker. I have blown a set roughly once a year but I play my music at full blast 80% of my driving. I already have a 12" in the trunk and had some amazing mids in the doors (80 hz crossover) but ventured into a cheaper brand (kicker) and didnt see the same mid bass I once had. To keep my purchase local/warrantied against my own abuse, I thought about an 8" or even a 6.75" sub that I would use to provide the same or better mid bass I once had (wouldnt play under 60 hz). The 12 in the back does a great job of hiding the weakness of my new front 6.5" drivers but my ears know what it once had so was just looking for alternatives in the same realm of local store.

In the pursuit of going this route, I found that the 6.75" kicker only plays at up to 1500 hz which is not high enough to work with a standard tweeter. A midrange is needed and that just complicates the setup more than I wanted so will most likely go back to what I know, standard components 2 way or coax...

 

[B2sdad]

Buy some Audiofrog GB60’s. They don’t call them the best 8” midwoofer for nothing (hint: they’re actually 6”). I love mine.

I keep hearing about those...only problem I have, i don't know anybody personally know has them installed, i would love to hear them.

 

[91RS]

They’re fantastic. The entire GB line is fantastic actually. GB60/25/10 is where it’s at.