6L80- Drive it till it quits, rebuild local or replace with rebuilt GM part?

[Ibustbravo]

This is like a Zen and the art of motorcycle maint question.

I have a 15 Yukon Denali with the 6.2L, just replaced the engine with a core I rebuilt from ebay. Now that the engine is running great, it's glaringly obvious the trans is on it's last leg. Brought it to a trans shop I trust and it's as bad as I thought.

Do I drive it till the trans quits and replace with rebuilt GM part after it totally quits? Or rebuild local before it's destroyed? It's going to cost near $6K($5800 US) to rebuild the trans here locally, there's no getting around it, these are expensive transmissions. Local shops offer a 2yr warranty.

I can buy a GM factory refurbished unit with a 3yr warranty for 4300 and change.. Here's the issue though and I hope I'm not alone here- I have serious trust issues with GM dealerships and warranty's. I feel like I got the the USMC green weenie with no lube when I bought this truck. I mean, it's a familiar feeling but it's been a few years since we've had relations like that.. heheh..

What would you do? Spend up to 6K with people you trust with less warranty or spend 4500 with a part from the factory?

 

[swathdiver]

Since it's behind a 6.2, I would have it built with the upgraded Sonnax parts and a billet torque converter. GM dealerships cannot offer that. I don't care about warranties, I want performance.

@NickTransmissions

 

[NickTransmissions]

This is like a Zen and the art of motorcycle maint question.

I have a 15 Yukon Denali with the 6.2L, just replaced the engine with a core I rebuilt from ebay. Now that the engine is running great, it's glaringly obvious the trans is on it's last leg. Brought it to a trans shop I trust and it's as bad as I thought.

Do I drive it till the trans quits and replace with rebuilt GM part after it totally quits? Or rebuild local before it's destroyed? It's going to cost near $6K($5800 US) to rebuild the trans here locally, there's no getting around it, these are expensive transmissions. Local shops offer a 2yr warranty.

I can buy a GM factory refurbished unit with a 3yr warranty for 4300 and change.. Here's the issue though and I hope I'm not alone here- I have serious trust issues with GM dealerships and warranty's. I feel like I got the the USMC green weenie with no lube when I bought this truck. I mean, it's a familiar feeling but it's been a few years since we've had relations like that.. heheh..

What would you do? Spend up to 6K with people you trust with less warranty or spend 4500 with a part from the factory?

I'd have it built to your requirements by people you trust. The trick is finding such people.

If you have found a shop that you have built rapport with and they seem to be knowledgeable and competent, I'd have them build it.

Check out my 6L80 Info thread for mode details around performance upgrades but here's a few upgrades that I do to all of those transmissions:
> Sonnax billet 1-2-3-4 apply piston
> Sonnax Zip Kit
> Sonnax 3-5-Reverse apply ring (gives you one addl steel and friction in that clutch pack)
> Sonnax 4-5-6 piston kit - 36 tooth friction design (gives you one addl steel and friction in that clutch pack using factory spec 36-tooth frictions)
> There's a 4-5-6 piston kit available that uses Powerglide spec clutches that have 45 teeth but you also have to purchase the matching 45-tooth billet clutch hub

If you're making some more serious power, do these:
> Sonnax billet 4-5-6 clutch hub (The factory piece likes to snap in half if power levels start to get up there)
> Rear planetary carrier w/billet drive plate

Also, make sure you have them run a delete kit or pill flip on the thermal bypass valve - that stupid thing is always a threat to fail, get stuck and overheat the trans...Transmission temps should never run more than about 200 degrees max (I prefer 180 degrees typical max running temps but newer Dex6 should be able to handle 200 before you'd get concerned).

 

[Ibustbravo]

I'd have it built to your requirements by people you trust. The trick is finding such people.

If you have found a shop that you have built rapport with and they seem to be knowledgeable and competent, I'd have them build it.

Check out my 6L80 Info thread for mode details around performance upgrades but here's a few upgrades that I do to all of those transmissions:
> Sonnax billet 1-2-3-4 apply piston
> Sonnax Zip Kit
> Sonnax 3-5-Reverse apply ring (gives you one addl steel and friction in that clutch pack)
> Sonnax 4-5-6 piston kit - 36 tooth friction design (gives you one addl steel and friction in that clutch pack using factory spec 36-tooth frictions)
> There's a 4-5-6 piston kit available that uses Powerglide spec clutches that have 45 teeth but you also have to purchase the matching 45-tooth billet clutch hub

If you're making some more serious power, do these:
> Sonnax billet 4-5-6 clutch hub (The factory piece likes to snap in half if power levels start to get up there)
> Rear planetary carrier w/billet drive plate

Also, make sure you have them run a delete kit or pill flip on the thermal bypass valve - that stupid thing is always a threat to fail, get stuck and overheat the trans...Transmission temps should never run more than about 200 degrees max (I prefer 180 degrees typical max running temps but newer Dex6 should be able to handle 200 before you'd get concerned).

Yea, I saw your post and have this page pulled up already. Thanks for the input!

C

 

[adventurenali92]

This is like a Zen and the art of motorcycle maint question.

I have a 15 Yukon Denali with the 6.2L, just replaced the engine with a core I rebuilt from ebay. Now that the engine is running great, it's glaringly obvious the trans is on it's last leg. Brought it to a trans shop I trust and it's as bad as I thought.

Do I drive it till the trans quits and replace with rebuilt GM part after it totally quits? Or rebuild local before it's destroyed? It's going to cost near $6K($5800 US) to rebuild the trans here locally, there's no getting around it, these are expensive transmissions. Local shops offer a 2yr warranty.

I can buy a GM factory refurbished unit with a 3yr warranty for 4300 and change.. Here's the issue though and I hope I'm not alone here- I have serious trust issues with GM dealerships and warranty's. I feel like I got the the USMC green weenie with no lube when I bought this truck. I mean, it's a familiar feeling but it's been a few years since we've had relations like that.. heheh..

What would you do? Spend up to 6K with people you trust with less warranty or spend 4500 with a part from the factory?

You know the saying… you get what you pay for….. why even chance it with a dealership whose techs and skills are a complete unknown…. Yeah it sucks to have to shell out more for the local shop. But their expertise in rebuilding transmissions is worth every penny. And more than likely you’ll shell out the 6 grand and not have to look back…. Sticker shock sucks but it’ll suck more of the dealer doesn’t do it right and it ends up costing you more in the long run with more trips to the dealer to get it handled correctly rather than one and done at the trusted local transmission shop.

 

[L8T BURB]

I am by no means a transmission expert, so I'll lead with that.

When looking at it from strictly a financial aspect...my thoughts here are that despite the possible lower quality build that you'd get from a GM transmission...the fact that you would have a nationwide warranty that can be utilized at all GM dealerships that includes 100% parts AND labor, and it's even a little cheaper on the front end purchase...I would definitely go with the GM unit here. Additionally, a lot of GM dealerships offer complimentary loaners, which would be another added perk of going this route.

Lets think in terms of "what ifs".... What if the transmission you purchase (regardless of independent shop trans or dealership), fails once per year over the next 3 years. Which route would cost you more from that standpoint?

The GM route just (to me) seems like it would be the least "financially volatile" route in my opinion as everything I have been told by my local GM service manager is that the warranty that accompanies those transmissions is 100% no frills, no cost warranty with no deductibles.

Hope this helps!

 

[Ibustbravo]

I am by no means a transmission expert, so I'll lead with that.

When looking at it from strictly a financial aspect...my thoughts here are that despite the possible lower quality build that you'd get from a GM transmission...the fact that you would have a nationwide warranty that can be utilized at all GM dealerships that includes 100% parts AND labor, and it's even a little cheaper on the front end purchase...I would definitely go with the GM unit here. Additionally, a lot of GM dealerships offer complimentary loaners, which would be another added perk of going this route.

Lets think in terms of "what ifs".... What if the transmission you purchase (regardless of independent shop trans or dealership), fails once per year over the next 3 years. Which route would cost you more from that standpoint?

The GM route just (to me) seems like it would be the least "financially volatile" route in my opinion as everything I have been told by my local GM service manager is that the warranty that accompanies those transmissions is 100% no frills, no cost warranty with no deductibles.

Hope this helps!

Ok, thanks for your input. Hahah.. To be candid, if this damned truck broke down once a year for the next few years I'd toss a flair in it and let it burn like I should have when the engine blew up. This thing is costing us a fortune in repairs.

I digress.. To the USAA insurance adjusters here.. I'm kidding!

I found this article in Alldata.com and it's really swaying my decision here.,

Identifying Non-GM (Aftermarket) Engine Calibrations for Gasoline Engines Using Tech 2® or GDS 2 (U.S. and Canada)​

These ECU and TCU's have versioning history of the last 10 changes.. and I do my own tuning.. I'd be breaking warranty because the techs will check. Not sure how that works with a reman unit but.. it's almost not worth the risk knowing that these warranty's have narrow rules to begin with.

C

 

[B-train]

I see both sides and still lean towards a GM trans with a nationwide warranty as @interceptor859 stated. I guess it depends on the type of tuning you do for what it may need to hold up to. If its aggressive, then maybe a built trans like @NickTransmissions said. If it's mild, I may just not worry about it and take my chances with GM for the better price and warranty.

 

[justchecking]

To the OP, for my own understanding (because I may be faced with the same dilemma): $5800 was complete removal, rebuild, install with 2 year warranty from a local shop. $4300 was GM rebuilt trans with 3 year warranty NOT INCLUDING removal and install labor. Correct?

 

[Ibustbravo]

To the OP, for my own understanding (because I may be faced with the same dilemma): $5800 was complete removal, rebuild, install with 2 year warranty from a local shop. $4300 was GM rebuilt trans with 3 year warranty NOT INCLUDING removal and install labor. Correct?

Yes you have it right.

I'm guessing ~$800 to remove and install based on the shop hours from alldata and 100/hr shop rate. It looks like a push to me.

 

[MobileHomie]

I am by no means a transmission expert, so I'll lead with that.

When looking at it from strictly a financial aspect...my thoughts here are that despite the possible lower quality build that you'd get from a GM transmission...the fact that you would have a nationwide warranty that can be utilized at all GM dealerships that includes 100% parts AND labor, and it's even a little cheaper on the front end purchase...I would definitely go with the GM unit here. Additionally, a lot of GM dealerships offer complimentary loaners, which would be another added perk of going this route.

Lets think in terms of "what ifs".... What if the transmission you purchase (regardless of independent shop trans or dealership), fails once per year over the next 3 years. Which route would cost you more from that standpoint?

The GM route just (to me) seems like it would be the least "financially volatile" route in my opinion as everything I have been told by my local GM service manager is that the warranty that accompanies those transmissions is 100% no frills, no cost warranty with no deductibles.

Hope this helps!

Ok, I will be "That Guy"...
Tell me more about the "nation wide warranty" while I book a room and try to get a rental car for my family road trip that got interrupted by the Genuine GM Product with a nation wide warranty. Oh, the local steelership in my random breakdown town can't get parts for a month or on the lift for two more months.
Have the local shop that builds transmissions daily and knows what aftermarket parts are good to go rebuild your transmission before it grenades the case.

$0.02
YMMV

 

[L8T BURB]

Ok, I will be "That Guy"...
Tell me more about the "nation wide warranty" while I book a room and try to get a rental car for my family road trip that got interrupted by the Genuine GM Product with a nation wide warranty. Oh, the local steelership in my random breakdown town can't get parts for a month or on the lift for two more months.
Have the local shop that builds transmissions daily and knows what aftermarket parts are good to go rebuild your transmission before it grenades the case.

$0.02
YMMV

I'm just quoting what my local GM service manager told me. I don't have a dog in the fight one way or another. I will ask a similar question however, what would be the plan if OP had a transmission breakdown while on family vacation several states away that "expert local rebuilder" installed? What's the move there? Just because a transmission is built by a local doesn't automatically make it immune to failures....right? Does a hotel and rental car become free if "local shop" transmission fails while on vacation?

 

[strutaeng]

Well, how about another option: you rebuild it yourself? Just throwing out ideas...

I mean @NickTransmissions already has the knowledge and videos on tools, teardowns and the rebuild! I know it's a huge learning curve, but with time, patience, tools and space, I bet you can do it.

I think special tools may be around $800 and overhaul parts with upgrades another $2000-ish? Big savings.

My former coworker recently had his 6L80e rebuilt. Around $5k and like 2 months later. Shop told they had about 25 trucks on their parking lot with the same issue... shoot I may quit my engineering job and learn to fix these voodoo magic boxes! LOL

 

[Ibustbravo]

I see both sides and still lean towards a GM trans with a nationwide warranty as @interceptor859 stated. I guess it depends on the type of tuning you do for what it may need to hold up to. If its aggressive, then maybe a built trans like @NickTransmissions said. If it's mild, I may just not worry about it and take my chances with GM for the better price and warranty.

I have a couple days to decide. Thanks for all your input, it's helping.

Yea, I plan to 'hot-rod' it with a different engine and some long tube headers. I have a 415ci short block sitting on a stand. But it's current engine is just a stock L86 with an L83 cam.

C

 

[Ibustbravo]

Well, how about another option: you rebuild it yourself? Just throwing out ideas...

I mean @NickTransmissions already has the knowledge and videos on tools, teardowns and the rebuild! I know it's a huge learning curve, but with time, patience, tools and space, I bet you can do it.

I think special tools may be around $800 and overhaul parts with upgrades another $2000-ish? Big savings.

My former coworker recently had his 6L80e rebuilt. Around $5k and like 2 months later. Shop told they had about 25 trucks on their parking lot with the same issue... shoot I may quit my engineering job and learn to fix these voodoo magic boxes! LOL

The thought has crossed my mind more than once. When I was in the military, we rebuilt everything.

I have a 8L90 on my shelf in the garage I could take apart..

 

[CMoore711]

I have a couple days to decide. Thanks for all your input, it's helping.

Yea, I plan to 'hot-rod' it with a different engine and some long tube headers. I have a 415ci short block sitting on a stand. But it's current engine is just a stock L86 with an L83 cam.

C

Well that changes things slightly on transmission recommendations. We’re 2 pages in and you just now mention the 415ci block?

If that motor is the future plan (rather that’s now or next year) and you’re replacing the transmission now. I for sure wouldn’t replace it with a GM Remanufactured unit. I’d get with a transmission builder and have one built to handle the HP/TQ you’re about to be asking it to handle and putting through it.

 

[CMoore711]

If you're planning to mod your vehicle down the road to increase power output then personally, I would worry less about warranties and more about having a transmission built for your needs, application, driving habits, and power level. You'll be eventually doing a motor swap to increase power which will require a tune to your PCM/TCM that alone will void any warranties you think might be included in the GM Remanufactured unit you're considering and potentially any other aftermarket/independent performance transmission builders. Look into that, ask the right questions, and be very clear about your future modding plan and how that may or may not affect any shops warranty they are offering.

Also, so much of how well a transmission functions in day-to-day use and longevity relies so much on the transmission tune not just the quality of the rebuild and parts used. Shift points, line pressures, and the amount of torque management used or not used plays a big role on transmission life, function, and drivability. Having your transmission tuned correctly can and will make or break how much life you get out of it! In fact, if you can I would try to find a transmission builder that also tunes transmissions and let them build it to spec to your needs and tune it based on the specific unit they've built for your application. Lastly, I would also let them spec you a torque converter that compliments the transmission build and your application needs.

 

[Ibustbravo]

Well that changes things slightly on transmission recommendations. We’re 2 pages in and you just now mention the 415ci block?

If that motor is the future plan (rather that’s now or next year) and you’re replacing the transmission now. I for sure wouldn’t replace it with a GM Remanufactured unit. I’d get with a transmission builder and have one built to handle the HP/TQ you’re about to be asking it to handle and putting through it.

Haha.. I didn't want to explain why I have two engines for this truck, right then. Ready for the drama?

The truck(yukon) broke down 11mo ago. We had only had it 4yrs and we still had a note on it.. I had it towed to a shop when it broke down on my wife; the shop that diagnosed it is where the real damage happened.. They mis-diagnosed the issue, kept trying to start it, they fried the starter and told me it was a fuel pump issue.. (that wasn't even a diagnosis to be honest)

I get it towed home and took it apart. A connecting rod went through the engine block. Crank was bent.. Heads ruined.. nothing was usable. I was pissed but what could I do? The shop told me to pound sand. Fair enough. This isn't the 1st time I've been screwed by a shop in this area. Last time was a transmission. That solidifies my conviction. I'm doing everything I can in-house.

Instead buying a stock engine and putting it in then. I decided to build a 415 stroker because I needed everything and we had two other running vehicles. Well.. I mis-managed this build. I'm over budget by a lot and well past my deadline, which was March of this year and it's still just a short block.

I digress.. It's running as of last week with the 2nd engine.. Then the trans immediately shit the bed.. So you're up to speed now.. Hahah.. Aren't you glad you asked?

Back to the stroker engine.. I have it in my head I'm going to decide on a cam profile, get a tq converter to match, reset the tans adapt and send it. From what I understand it's the TQ converter that destroys the trans? So that's why I wasn't going extreme on the build.

C

 

[CMoore711]

Thanks for sharing man. Sorry to hear about your experience with the shop, unfortunately I’m familiar with how that type of thing happens all too often with little leg to stand on unless you’re willing to spend good money and time chasing bad money and time.

Being in your shoes I would have chose a similar path with the replacement engine; Since nothing was reusable why replace with stock when you can upgrade. I too am familiar with how slippery that slope can get and it’s far too easy to go “well if I’m doing this $ it makes sense to might as well do that $$”. Then “how have I already spent $$$ and haven’t even purchased heads yet?!?!”

Where abouts are you located?

Sounds like it’s shaping up to transform into one bada$$$$$ Yukon Denali.

 

[Ibustbravo]

Thanks for sharing man. Sorry to hear about your experience with the shop, unfortunately I’m familiar with how that type of thing happens all too often with little leg to stand on unless you’re willing to spend good money and time chasing bad money and time.

Beisimilar path wng in your shoes I would have chose a ith the replacement engine; Since nothing was reusable why replace with stock when you can upgrade. I too am familiar with how slippery that slope can get and it’s far too easy to go “well if I’m doing this $ it makes sense to might as well do that $$”. Then “how have I already spent $$$ and haven’t even purchased heads yet?!?!”

Where abouts are you located?

Sounds like it’s shaping up to transform into one bada$$$$$ Yukon Denali.

I live in Aurora, Colorado. It's beautiful here. I work out of my garage and I love the summers here. No bugs.

Yea it's a seriously slippery slope. I'm all in now. The dealership level diagnostics for this truck just showed up. I have a Techline SPS subscription, a GDS 2 subscription and the hardware gizmo. And an Alldata subscription. I might open my shop to the public to help pay for all this. lol

C