24x14 Offroad Wheels On An AT4

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“First off... My truck, my rules. That's all that matters.”

Totally respect that, not trying to be a dick, but always wanting to learn. Is this strictly personal preference or is there a functional component to that wheel set-up? Respect either way. Thx.
It's no different than any other person's preference. Some like large profile tires with 17's, and others like low profile tires with 24's & 26's. Doesn't matter which setup up you use... the wheel still serves the same purpose.
 

mikew2069

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Today I drove over to the top powder coater's shop and he saw the rims for himself. Like the other shop, he was impressed by the factory tinted clear over the machined finish... but sadly, he said he also couldn't do what I was trying to achieve. He said it's difficult to mask because it's a two-piece wheel with small gaps between the barrel and hub. He said my best course of action would be to take it to a rim shop and have them disassemble the rims and send out the barrels to be powder coated. Otherwise, if I chose to do it my way, it would be astronomically expensive.

So, my next course of action is to contact a rim repair shop not to far from home and see if they can disassemble and powder coat the rims. If not, I'm going to leave the rims as-is and focus on getting the body modified to accommodate the rims, and be done with it. And if that's the case, I'll just have everything mounted and balanced and hand them and the vehicle over to the custom fabricator and say "make them fit"... okay just kidding, I'm not packing that kind of swagger or cash.

I'll keep you guys posted as usual.
1) you brought up weight. So how much do they weight? I'm curious because I just got 24s and they weight 45lbs and the tires are 44lbs. I was a bit shocked by how heavy it all is.

2) where do you live? taking apart a multi piece wheel isn't rocket science so you should easily be able to find a shop to tackle this.
 
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1) you brought up weight. So how much do they weight? I'm curious because I just got 24s and they weight 45lbs and the tires are 44lbs. I was a bit shocked by how heavy it all is.

2) where do you live? taking apart a multi piece wheel isn't rocket science so you should easily be able to find a shop to tackle this.
1) The weight is no less than 90lbs, I can tell you that. With tire mounted, it almost requires two people to hoist it up to put in the vehicle. I've put it inside a couple of times so far, and it's a heavy setup for forged aluminum.

2) I'm in the SoCal (Southern California) area. I contacted a couple of local rim repair shops thinking they'd be able to disassemble and reassemble the rims, but what it all comes down to is liability. None of the shops I visited want the liability of the rim falling apart while I'm driving. The bolts are on pretty solid, and I already tried removing them myself a couple of times.

As for updates, not much to report. The tires are currently being mounted and balanced, however the tire shop is having seating problems getting the tire over the rear part of the rim, so I'll need to talk to him about that.
 
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More updates, and not good ones... Today I drove to several "custom paint & body" shops in my area to see if they'd take on the challenge of modifying my fenders to accommodate the wheels, and not one taker. Seems like everyone is afraid to cut into a brand new vehicle, but have no problem modifying the crap out of an old muscle car or something over 30 years old. So where does that leave me, well, still looking... I do have the tools to work on the vehicle myself, but I'd rather have a professional do it over myself. And if I continue to get the same "no" answer, I just might go ahead and do it myself.

The other update I have is the local shop I hired to mount and balance the wheels didn't do that. The only thing they did was put the tires on the rims... That's it. They claimed the TPMS I provided from the company I bought the wheels from had a low-pressure threshold, so it wouldn't inflate the tires.... I call BS on that one, or they lack the experience to properly inflate a stretched tire. The tires would stretch a little in their current configuration (13.50" on a 14" wide rim), so I think they're trying to avoid any liability by telling me the tires won't inflate. I'll eventually find someone that'll get it done. And once that happens, I'll step up my efforts to getting the body work done ASAP.
 
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sounds like tire shop didnt have experience w/ that size combo


as for the rims & break down... the bolts prolly have loctite. you could try a propane torch on a couple.

or try to find a better powder coating place... it will be extra work & prep , but can be done
 

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I’m going to be honest here from what I can see. If you’re not going to raise the front of the vehicle any more you would have to cut so much out that you’d probably be through the firewall. If nobody in SoCal wants to do it that says a lot to me. It’s just not even close, most people who attempt to run a setup like that have a 6” lift at minimum and still have rubbing and reasonable trimming.

Rear of the tire looks like it would have to be cut all the way to the drivers door panel, front of the tire looks like it would have to be cut from reflector to fog light.

I had a NNBS that I did the “NORCAL” mod to clear 33/12.5 on a 9” -12mm on a 3” level, this isn’t that...

The tire shop couldn’t get the bead to seal, again strange for SoCal. Maybe some bead sealer..
 

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2) I'm in the SoCal (Southern California) area. I contacted a couple of local rim repair shops thinking they'd be able to disassemble and reassemble the rims, but what it all comes down to is liability. None of the shops I visited want the liability of the rim falling apart while I'm driving. The bolts are on pretty solid, and I already tried removing them myself a couple of times.
IMO the only legit way to accomplish your 2 tone finish is to take the rims apart. If you're going to the effort of modifying the body of your brand new ride why skimp on the rims and not do them correctly? In the VW world I see folks splitting 2 piece rims all the time to do a 2 tone look, very popular with older BBS wheels. Lots of them are doing the work themselves so you might just have to DIY. I've never personally done this but it doesn't look too difficult
 
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I’m going to be honest here from what I can see. If you’re not going to raise the front of the vehicle any more you would have to cut so much out that you’d probably be through the firewall. If nobody in SoCal wants to do it that says a lot to me. It’s just not even close, most people who attempt to run a setup like that have a 6” lift at minimum and still have rubbing and reasonable trimming.

Rear of the tire looks like it would have to be cut all the way to the drivers door panel, front of the tire looks like it would have to be cut from reflector to fog light.

I had a NNBS that I did the “NORCAL” mod to clear 33/12.5 on a 9” -12mm on a 3” level, this isn’t that...

The tire shop couldn’t get the bead to seal, again strange for SoCal. Maybe some bead sealer..

The front bumper isn't as bad as it looks and shouldn't require anymore added trimming than the usual lifted truck with large offroad wheels. I do get some turning out of it. It's the rear of the front tires where I have problems. I estimate I'd have to cut no less than 2 inches off the fender/running board to get a decent turning radius. I also have the option to remove the fender liner for added clearance, or do similar modifications to Westcott Design (videos below).


 

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I won't bore you guys with every little update until I make some real progress in the rim barrel powder coating, the tire fitment on the rims, or the body modifications. So with that said, the only current update I have is that the tire rubber is very rigid on these Atturo's because of the design of the lugs on the sidewalls, which means room to stretch outwards to fill in that 2" gap between the tire and rim is non-existent. That translates to me having to swap out the tires for a size up. So I'll need a 14.50" wide instead of the 13.50 I have now... Don't worry guys, I'll make it happen one way or another.
 

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mikew2069

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I won't bore you guys with every little update until I make some real progress in the rim barrel powder coating, the tire fitment on the rims, or the body modifications. So with that said, the only current update I have is that the tire rubber is very rigid on these Atturo's because of the design of the lugs on the sidewalls, which means room to stretch outwards to fill in that 2" gap between the tire and rim is non-existent. That translates to me having to swap out the tires for a size up. So I'll need a 14.50" wide instead of the 13.50 I have now... Don't worry guys, I'll make it happen one way or another.
It's your thread so keep the updates coming!
 

olyelr

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Yea running wheels that are wider than the tire itself has always been a very poor idea IMO.
 

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I've ran stretched tires on a couple cars in the past and the bummer is you make one mistake and your rims are effed and look like pooh. Curbs get ya when you least expect it
 
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I've ran stretched tires on a couple cars in the past and the bummer is you make one mistake and your rims are effed and look like pooh. Curbs get ya when you least expect it
The stretched look has some appeal visually, but at the risk of damaging the rim at high speeds or through narrow drive-thru's, it's not worth it... And these rims are very expensive. On the flip side, I don't mind the "square" look, when the tire is flush with the rim. I just hate when the tire exceeds the width of the rim. That's a look I will never get on board with, because the same can happen with the tire on the rim. Which is the sole reason why beadlock rims were created. I would have purchased some, except they're not offered in a 24" or higher diameter.
 
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Dlayne

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It's no different than any other person's preference. Some like large profile tires with 17's, and others like low profile tires with 24's & 26's. Doesn't matter which setup up you use... the wheel still serves the same purpose.
Agreed on personal preference, but the set up DOES dictate purpose. And not all purposes are the same. For example, I run 18” wheels with large sidewall on my Tremor to give a better ride / traction off road. Air down for sand..etc. Wider stance on the sports car for track days. 22” on my Yukon with stiff sidewalls for better handling. BTW, love your wheel design. Good luck with the build.
 
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Agreed on personal preference, but the set up DOES dictate purpose. And not all purposes are the same. For example, I run 18” wheels with large sidewall on my Tremor to give a better ride / traction off road. Air down for sand..etc. Wider stance on the sports car for track days. 22” on my Yukon with stiff sidewalls for better handling. BTW, love your wheel design. Good luck with the build.
I found a solution to the problem I was having with my tires, so I'll be back on track with my build once this powder coater gets back to me on taking the job.
 
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Yea running wheels that are wider than the tire itself has always been a very poor idea IMO.
Unfortunately, the tires that came with the wheel package are way too expensive to return to the east coast, so that's a non-starter. And if I put them on ebay or Craigslist, I'll get 3 weeks of random calls from people trying to lowball me on the price and have me flip the bill for shipping. So the best option for me right now is to use them up and move on to a different size and brand when the tread wears down. I'm thinking an A/T tire would be best next time around.
 
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No real updates this week. Just took some size comparison pictures of the new versus stock. I also color matched some inserts on the wheels.
 

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I'm dropping the wheels off later this week for the barrels to be powder coated. I'm most likely going with a high gloss flat black, to match the window and door trim. Bronze barrels crossed my mind along with matching tow hooks as well, but these wheels already draw a lot of attention as it is. I'm keeping this wheel as is, as a spare and tester when I have the body modified.
 

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