2017 6.2 Collapsed Lifter Causing Blue Smoke?

[Fless]

Suspect a bad main battery cable or connection, or a bad or missing body ground. I wouldn't necessarily trust the dash voltmeter for accuracy; better to measure somewhere with a DVOM.

You could do a voltage drop test to confirm that or rule it out.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@gwoods71 Double check your wiring and battery cables, the negative battery cable can go bad internally. Test around and maybe use a jumper cable to jump between the negative battery terminal and the block

 

[gwoods71]

Update to where this stands.
The vehicle essentially acted like it was DOA as far as power, the only "sign of life" was a glowing, barely on CEL.

All my grounds and +12v wires showed good voltage in the engine bay. I had good voltage at the fuse block on the driver inner fender. On a whim I pulled the block to check for corrosion, found none, hit it with di-electric grease anyway, and when I reconnected it, it seemed to "reset" the truck and it all came back to life.

With that I was able to plug in the AFM disable dongle and start the new/rebuilt with AFM delete engine.

It ran smooth, smoke cleared up, and sounded good, and shockingly no CEL.

 

[gwoods71]

Success was short lived. I installed the hood, inner fenders and made a quick trip to the store about 3 miles away. went over the railroad tracks and the dash and infotainment screen went dark and came back on.

I got home, and tried to seat the fuse box better, and in turn, locked our only fob in the truck. 45 minutes later at 11:30 last night and a tow truck arrives and opens the door.

This morning i go out to the truck, and completely dead. Battery has 4.3 volts.

i swap in the boat battery and end up having to remove and install the fuse block again to "reset" the truck and I was able to drive it to work. Although large potholes/ bumps do make the dash and screen flicker.

I did try disabling the AFM with my Diablo, but I must not be doing something right because it still goes into 4 cylinder mode, and puts a noticeable strain on the engine. The disable dongle seems to work, but I fear that is what killed the battery last night.

 

[Blackcar]

This thing is just getting worse. After getting home from work and hooking up the battery it is acting like there is even less power in the truck, no dash light, dim dome lights, dim infotainment screen. Each time I unhook the battery and hook it back up, it gets worse. To the point now all i have is a check engine light glowing. No dome lights, no dash, nothing.

Battery is still charged with 13.5 volts unhooked and 13+ volts hooked up in the truck.

You might check cables at battery for corrosion under coating on cables at battery has been known as problem at times. If they look swelled, you might replace.

 

[gwoods71]

Here is where this stands. The motor when running is great, no CEL.

This electrical issue is getting worse. If I would get "more attention" in the electrical forum will run through everything there. If not, should I start a new thread in this forum?

 

[SpareParts]

I would vote to keep it all here.

 

[gwoods71]

Electrical Issues from the start:

I unhooked the battery for the duration of the engine replacement

As I finished the engine (long block) install I hooked up the battery to use my Diablo to reprogram the ECU to disable the DOD

I was unsuccessful several time to get the Diablo to communicate. So several times I unhooked and rehooked the battery

Each time I hooked the battery back up the dash gage showed less and less voltage (14v, 12v, 10.5v) but the battery still checked 13.5 with my multimeter

Eventually the dash would not even light up, and all I had was a “glowing” CEL

I started tracing cables and unhooked the fuse block on the LH inner fender to check for corrosion- non found, coated with dielectric grease since it was open, and re-installed

This appeared to bring the truck back to life, I was able to start it drive it and drive with a DOD “Disable Dongle” as I had not tried the diablo again

I went across some railroad tracks and the dash flickered but came right back on

I parked it for the night, left the dongle in for the night

Next morning, the battery was dead, I swapped in a different battery and fought with the battery connections, fuse block etc. to get it started

I was able to drive it all day to work, lunch time errands, and running kids after school, I had no other issues than a quick dash flicker on a pothole

The next day (thanksgiving) I dove to the store 3 miles away, as soon as I parked the dash/info screen went out, but the truck was still running, and I could not get it out of park

I unhooked the battery and left it for the day

That evening I was able to get it started through the usual finagling and get it home I parked it for the night, the next morning it started without issue, and I moved it next to my shop

Once turned off it has been VERY DEAD ever since, just the glowing CEL when the battery is hooked up

 

[gwoods71]

This is what I have found chasing wires:

All grounds tone out just fine

The battery has good (13.5) voltage

Good feed to the alternator, front axle, starter, and under hood fuse block

The fuses on the top of the battery all check good

The blue connector on top of the battery all has good voltage

I have good voltage to the RH dash fuse block

This next part is where it gets weird….

I have ONLY 5 volts to the LH Dash fuse block

If I unhook the blue 2 wire connector off the top of the battery, I get full voltage to the LH Dash fuse block

The dash will come to life, no info screen

The truck will crank but not start

I still cannot get it out of park

I am home this weekend, so I am going to try chasing wires some more looking for some sort of short.

I have it scheduled to go to a shop but the earliest I could get it in was Thursday 12/11, unless I can get it started, will have it towed.

 

[SpareParts]

Im no help other than to suggest the BCM, but i sure as heck can't wait to find out what fixes it!