2017 6.2 Collapsed Lifter Causing Blue Smoke?

[gwoods71]

Backstory: 2017 Yukon Denali 6.2
Just turned 180k, bought 18 months ago from second owner with 155k.
Aside from a coil pack, no other engine issues since purchased, oil changes with full synthetic every 5k.

Last week, the wife was waiting in the school pickup line, check engine started flashing, she limped it home (9 miles).
Aside from slight chug/miss, there are no ticks, clicks, rattles etc.
Code P0304, P050D
Engine was 1.5 quarts lo, not normal as las oil change was early July with only 2500 miles since.
Engine is smoking and burning oil- not something I have seen mentioned in other AFM/ lifter threads

Compression:
1-155 psi
3-145 psi
5-160 psi
7-150 psi

2- 135 psi
4- 0 psi (also plug is oily)
6- 125 psi
8- -FU GM- good luck checking.

Obviously my next step is to pull the heads. Assuming I am in for at least a top end rebuild w/ AFM delete. But I am most curious about the smoking. Wife loves this truck and it is a great vehicle for our family. With what I paid I am going to repair it, because we will likely never afford another Denali!

Thanks!
Grant

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

That really sucks. Let's see what the heads look like after you've pulled them. With a bit of luck, the source of your issue is contained within the heads only.

 

[intergalactron]

Any update on this? Got that head off yet?

 

[Too_L8T]

They can stick open too from what ive heard not just collapsed

 

[2016Dom]

They can stick open too from what ive heard not just collapsed

Take off the intake and look at the valves, I read some place the the carbon build up could cause valves to stick open and may cause lifters to collapse.

I walnut shelled blasted the in take valves on my new to me 255,000 mile Yukon and it ran much better, had a lot of carbon build up.

 

[gwoods71]

Well my work schedule has me on the road with no real end in sight, so between last Saturday night and early sunday morning I did finally get the head off.

One bent/broken push rod, likely caused by a bad lifter. I had good supervision sunday morning as well.

I wont be home until next friday, so in the mean time I need to get parts ordered. I am doing a full AFM delete, I will keep it stock as this is the wife's truck that mostly just does the school run with occasional towing in the summer.

Will I be able to do this swap with the block in the truck? Camshaft and all?

What is a recommended AFM delete kit? I am looking for something all inclusive, or close to it. As far as tuning, what are my best options? Tuners are something completely new to me.

 

[gwoods71]

I am thinking this is the kit I should go with: https://www.texas-speed.com/p-18933-l83l86lt1-dod-delete-kit-w-camshaft-for-2014-2018-gm-models.aspx

Along with (obviously) a set of pushrods, should I replace the oil pump and timing chain while I am in it?

Finally, I also see VVT delete kits, do I need to go that route as well? not as much chatter on here about them. https://www.texas-speed.com/p-18098...-timing-cover-wetdry-sump-vvt-delete-kit.aspx

 

[intergalactron]

Will you be able to do this with the block in the truck? Yes. You'll need to take most if not all of the radiator/grill/bumper cover/etc. off to do it. The only tricky part is the AC condenser. You'll have to work around it if you don't want to do an AC recharge.

"Texas Speed" has kits, as does "Brian Tooley Racing". If you have trouble finding what you need, call them. I've had good experiences with both.

If you're staying stock, you can get a superchips (or similar) tuner to shut off the AFM in the computer. They run like $450 or so.

 

[B-train]

Will you be able to do this with the block in the truck? Yes. You'll need to take most if not all of the radiator/grill/bumper cover/etc. off to do it. The only tricky part is the AC condenser. You'll have to work around it if you don't want to do an AC recharge.

"Texas Speed" has kits, as does "Brian Tooley Racing". If you have trouble finding what you need, call them. I've had good experiences with both.

If you're staying stock, you can get a superchips (or similar) tuner to shut off the AFM in the computer. They run like $450 or so.

Or find a person with HP Tuners and pay the credits fee and maybe a case of beer. Probably about $150 or so.

 

[Too_L8T]

This is about the most thorough video you will find on the delete, done in a couple parts. I tried walking the chain off like he did but man even with a BRAND NEW motor on an engine stand I couldnt do it. Didnt have the patience. So i pulled the oil pan and took the oil pump off. But, like i said it was not in a car and i was sitting on a stool with it.

 

[intergalactron]

I am thinking this is the kit I should go with: https://www.texas-speed.com/p-18933-l83l86lt1-dod-delete-kit-w-camshaft-for-2014-2018-gm-models.aspx

Along with (obviously) a set of pushrods, should I replace the oil pump and timing chain while I am in it?

Finally, I also see VVT delete kits, do I need to go that route as well? not as much chatter on here about them. https://www.texas-speed.com/p-18098...-timing-cover-wetdry-sump-vvt-delete-kit.aspx

Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you have to drop the oil pan to change the oil pump, due to the solenoid on the pump.

IMO, if you're going with a stock non-AFM cam, keep the VVT.

I would replace the timing chain if you can. My 2020 had noticeable stretch at 120k miles.

 

[gwoods71]

So a little update to where I am with this.

A few weeks ago I took the heads in to the machine shop to have them cleaned and freshened up. Then was back on the road for a couple weeks for work. When I finally got home last weekend (Oct 24th) I went out to the shop and pulled the cover off the motor and found with the weather change some condensation had gotten on the cylinder walls and caused some rust. Well Crap. Spent last weekend pulling the block and dropped off last monday.

Stopped by today and they are taking the bores .020" over due to wear, my compression numbers were not stellar on the RH side, so I am not surprised. With all my traveling for work I am just having the machine shop build the long block and hopefully over Thanksgiving I can get this thing back together. Snow is coming and my wife wants her truck back.

Unfortunately this means there are a lot of parts I bought with my TSP kit that will not be used. So there was some money wasted, but at least it will be put together in a timely manner and done right.

 

[gwoods71]

The shop manager did recommend that I use a VLOM cover from an engine that doesn't have the solenoids and what not. Is this necessary? Do I still need to install the DOD Delete plugs? Finally would this be a factory part from a certain engine, or one of the custom units from TSP?

 

[Joseph Garcia]

I believe that you can purchase a VOLM cover from Texas Speed or Summit Racing. And, I believe that this cover has O-ring seals, so you don't need to tap/install delete plugs.

If you perform a complete AFM delete, you should also consider deleting the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pan, as it is only needed for AFM, and it will eventually fail, thus dropping your oil pressure.

While you have the motor separated from the transmission, you should also replace the plastic oil barbell with a billet oil barbell.

 

[gwoods71]

I got the long block back from the machine shop last friday. Due to a family emergency I didn't get it prepped (pushrods, rockers, flex plate, threaded holes chased, etc.) and assembled to drop in until Sunday, but Sunday night I did get it in, mated to the trans, and bolted up.

Last couple nights have been spent reassembling all the sensors and wiring. Last night I installed the timing cover. Tonight is the exhaust manifolds, fuel rails (new seals on injectors), and working on the front dress.

Hoping to crank it this weekend before I leave for work again Sunday afternoon.

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Nice progress!! A GREAT project to watch! I thank you for that opportunity to virtually participate.

The only thing that I've seen better than a newly serviced motor being lowered into the engine bay from above, is the see the entire truck body being lowered into place onto the newly serviced motor from above.

 

[gwoods71]

Well despite life's best efforts to slow me down this weekend I got the engine in and ready to go. Including a quick fix on the RH motor mount heat shield that would have been MUCH easier to do before I installed into the chassis.

Yesterday moring i wrapped up the last of everything, and then spent the rest of the day attempting to get my brand new Diablo inTune 3 Platinum to connect. All I have to say, is this thing is $500 of junk. Instructions are non-existent, refuses to connect to w-fi, it is laggy, locks up for hours at a time, and is just generally not user friendly. After numerous times I made sure it was up to date it still just keeps asking to turn the truck on...which it is.

I am going to attempt to return it, and have a local guy (recommended by the machine shop manager) disable the AFM in the ECU.

 

[gwoods71]

No returns on the Diablo. Not surprised. Guess I will try their help line today.

Will one of the Amazon $50 AFM disablers work for the meantime? I need to get this truck on the road.

 

[gwoods71]

Well the saga continues.
I have been leaving a battery charger (2 amp) on (with battery unhooked).

This morning I was not sleeping, so at 3:00 am I went out to give the Diablosport another go. It tells me the voltage is low. Sure enough the dash gage shows 10.5(ish) volts.

The battery (Interstate- 1.5 years old) shows 13.5v unhooked.

Thinking it may still be a bad battery I grab a 1.5 year old battery out of the boat. Same thing- 13.5v unhooked, 12.6 hooked up with truck on, not running- dash gage still shows 10.5.

Yesterday morning the dash gage showed 12+ volts.

Now I am really not sure where to go with this thing. I am also getting messages on the dash to Service, 4WD, Stabilitrak, steering- reduced control, forward collision system, driver assist system, and to run the power windows up and down, and maybe a few others....

 

[gwoods71]

This thing is just getting worse. After getting home from work and hooking up the battery it is acting like there is even less power in the truck, no dash light, dim dome lights, dim infotainment screen. Each time I unhook the battery and hook it back up, it gets worse. To the point now all i have is a check engine light glowing. No dome lights, no dash, nothing.

Battery is still charged with 13.5 volts unhooked and 13+ volts hooked up in the truck.