2016 Yukon/L680 Transmission upgrades for HD TOW 2016 Yukon XL

[NickTransmissions]

Thank you. I reached out to Black Bear and they said my 2016 Yukon requires the Autcal V3 option. They said to swap the torque converter first if that's what I plan to do.

When selecting a converter make sure you get one with as thick a converter clutch disc as possible (I prob mentioned this before so forgive me, but it's worth repeating). I'd recommend .070" but no less than .050".

Also billet cover if you will be doing lots of towing/hauling with it. Lots of good converter builders nationally (TCI, Yank, Circle D, Florida TC, etc).

 

[NiamLeeSin]

When selecting a converter make sure you get one with as thick a converter clutch disc as possible (I prob mentioned this before so forgive me, but it's worth repeating). I'd recommend .070" but no less than .050".

Also billet cover if you will be doing lots of towing/hauling with it. Lots of good converter builders nationally (TCI, Yank, Circle D, Florida TC, etc).

Thank you @NickTransmissions Does this one have all of that?

GM 300mm Pro Series 6L80 Torque Converter

This converter is a fantastic upgrade over the OE 6L80 Converters. A daily-driver friendly stall speed coupled with billet components makes this a no-brainer for your mild cam 6L80 truck build! Converter Diameter: 300mm - 12" Stall Speed Options - Factory (1800-2000rpm) up to 2600rpm Billet...

www.circledspecialties.com

Also, I checked out your youtube channel and it's very good. It mainly taught me how much I don't know and where my limits are as a DIY'er.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Thank you @NickTransmissions Does this one have all of that?

GM 300mm Pro Series 6L80 Torque Converter

This converter is a fantastic upgrade over the OE 6L80 Converters. A daily-driver friendly stall speed coupled with billet components makes this a no-brainer for your mild cam 6L80 truck build! Converter Diameter: 300mm - 12" Stall Speed Options - Factory (1800-2000rpm) up to 2600rpm Billet...

www.circledspecialties.com

Also, I checked out your youtube channel and it's very good. It mainly taught me how much I don't know and where my limits are as a DIY'er.

I would imagine so but call Circle D to be sure as their link doesn't specify a clutch thickness but Circle D makes outstanding converters so you'd be in good shape if you went w/one of theirs.

Thanks for checking out the channel...Kindly sub if you haven't already and I'll be uploading several more 6L80 related videos over the next few weeks or so.

The nice thing about DYI'er limits is that they are completely adjustable, based on what the individual DYI'er wants to learn, take on and can fit in to the schedule (as you know, finding the time is toughest hurdle to get over)...That will be different for everyone but there's nothing more empowering than being able to fix something yourself, especially if you had always believed it was something you could never accomplish before...

 

[NiamLeeSin]

I would imagine so but call Circle D to be sure as their link doesn't specify a clutch thickness but Circle D makes outstanding converters so you'd be in good shape if you went w/one of theirs.

Thanks for checking out the channel...Kindly sub if you haven't already and I'll be uploading several more 6L80 related videos over the next few weeks or so.

The nice thing about DYI'er limits is that they are completely adjustable, based on what the individual DYI'er wants to learn, take on and can fit in to the schedule (as you know, finding the time is toughest hurdle to get over)...That will be different for everyone but there's nothing more empowering than being able to fix something yourself, especially if you had always believed it was something you could never accomplish before...

Yep, subscribed. With your help we can do much more for sure. However, I think basic economics theory implies that you should do transmission rebuilds, and I should do IT, and we should trade. That way we can do more, better.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Yep, subscribed. With your help we can do much more for sure. However, I think basic economics theory implies that you should do transmission rebuilds, and I should do IT, and we should trade. That way we can do more, better.

Thanks, @NiamLeeSin.

Economics-wise, it boils down to opportunity cost. If one hour of IT work nets you more $$$ than you'd save working on your vehicle then it makes sense to outsource the repairs so you can use that hour(s) to perform IT work as its more profitable, all other things equal.

 

[NiamLeeSin]

I've read about others who still have high temps despite doing TBV Bulletin. And I think my temps stay high from 180-190. So I'm going to delete it with the shift kit today.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Silverado/comments/11s6i80

 

[NickTransmissions]

I've read about others who still have high temps despite doing TBV Bulletin. And I think my temps stay high from 180-190. So I'm going to delete it with the shift kit today.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Silverado/comments/11s6i80

175 degrees is ideal but 180ish is fine also (190 max). That said, if you havent flupped the pill or installed a Superior Tech delete kit or an updated housing from GM, I definitely agree with doing so. which one is up to up to you but i'd flip the pill first as it doesnt cost you anything. Just need a set of snap ring pliers and maybe a vise witg soft jaws to hold it as sometimes the snap ring and/or end cap can be stubborn.

 

[NiamLeeSin]

175 degrees is ideal but 180ish is fine also (190 max). That said, if you havent flupped the pill or installed a Superior Tech delete kit or an updated housing from GM, I definitely agree with doing so. which one is up to up to you but i'd flip the pill first as it doesnt cost you anything. Just need a set of snap ring pliers and maybe a vise witg soft jaws to hold it as sometimes the snap ring and/or end cap can be stubborn.

I got the superior tech delete kit. Just now had to put it all back together to drive to harbor freight and get the snap ring pliers for that.

What I keep referring to as the TBV bulletin was done with the updated part from the dealer (updated GM housing?) And it didn't seem to help. The packing slip had the correct part number but there is no part number on the part itself, so I'm wondering if it's actually the updated part. Anyway, that didn't seem to help.

I also got a vacuum hand pump to pull the fluid from the pan to install my B&M deep aluminum pan. I'll do that next week.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I got the superior tech delete kit. Just now had to put it all back together to drive to harbor freight and get the snap ring pliers for that.

What I keep referring to as the TBV bulletin was done with the updated part from the dealer (updated GM housing?) And it didn't seem to help. The packing slip had the correct part number but there is no part number on the part itself, so I'm wondering if it's actually the updated part. Anyway, that didn't seem to help.

I also got a vacuum hand pump to pull the fluid from the pan to install my B&M deep aluminum pan. I'll do that next week.

That updated part may or may not be defective but if your temps are in the range you mentioned previously, im inclined to think its working. You're not going to see temps below the rating of the thermostat and you wont see anything in the 150-160 range in Jun-Sep unless you add on a big aftermarket trans cooler and plum the lines through the radiator then out to the big trans cooler plus the B&M pan.

Sounds like your're making good progress...

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

Dont mess with the updated cooler bypass, just take yours and put the Superior stl010 in and it will do the trick, I did the GM Tsb bypass and it sucked, didn't hardly do anything for me still was running high 180s to 190s.

Did the Superior and it worked like a charm. 150s to the 170s in 90 degree temps. Mine is a max trailering 3.42 rig.

If the trans is good, a good TC upgrade will serve you well.

 

[NiamLeeSin]

Dont mess with the updated cooler bypass, just take yours and put the Superior stl010 in and it will do the trick, I did the GM Tsb bypass and it sucked, didn't hardly do anything for me still was running high 180s to 190s.

Did the Superior and it worked like a charm. 150s to the 170s in 90 degree temps. Mine is a max trailering 3.42 rig.

If the trans is good, a good TC upgrade will serve you well.

You are correct, I wasted a lot of time with the updated cooler bypass. The superior tech delete kit did the trick. Temps are never over 140f. That is with the Mishimoto cooler mind you.

I'm still on the fence about a TC upgrade just because the part costs over $1k. Part of me wants to kick the can down the road and hope the stock TC doesn't fail.

 

[Bigkevschopshop]

You are correct, I wasted a lot of time with the updated cooler bypass. The superior tech delete kit did the trick. Temps are never over 140f. That is with the Mishimoto cooler mind you.

I'm still on the fence about a TC upgrade just because the part costs over $1k. Part of me wants to kick the can down the road and hope the stock TC doesn't fail.

Saying your'e at 40k mile area, the cooler upgrades you did should net you a long life with good fluid and filter changes.

 

[NiamLeeSin]

When selecting a converter make sure you get one with as thick a converter clutch disc as possible (I prob mentioned this before so forgive me, but it's worth repeating). I'd recommend .070" but no less than .050".

Also billet cover if you will be doing lots of towing/hauling with it. Lots of good converter builders nationally (TCI, Yank, Circle D, Florida TC, etc).

I went with Performance Torque Converters of Texas because they were the best value I could find after researching all of these options and calling around. The circle D TC was overkill for my application and costly. PTC of Texas was recommended somewhere else in this forum, I believe. The clutch disc is thicker than stock, with a billet front, and they tig weld it.

 

[NickTransmissions]

I went with Performance Torque Converters of Texas because they were the best value I could find after researching all of these options and calling around. The circle D TC was overkill for my application and costly. PTC of Texas was recommended somewhere else in this forum, I believe. The clutch disc is thicker than stock, with a billet front, and they tig weld it.

Sweet man, looks like you did your homework and got a real solid converter for your truck. Should last a long time.

 

[NiamLeeSin]

Just an update for anyone interested. I've been on a few long trips (2k miles round trip each) and the weight and drag of the RV makes the truck run at 3k plus RPMs on normal highway in 4th (I think), I never go over 65 mph, yet it doesn't confidently haul this load. Even the thought of climbing an incline is difficult for it, really struggling with higher grade hills and mountainous terrain. Despite paring down the RV contents, I think this kind of towing will destroy the drivetrain over the long term, so I think I'm going to go in a different direction.

 

[15burban]

It's a gas motor so it's going to rev up if while towing. I'm new to gm's (just got our 15 suburban a couple of months ago, wife's vehicle so I rarely drive it) but from what I found the max torque is over 4k rpm and max hp is over 5k. Sorry if I missed it but I take it your rv is a non pop up type and has a large frontal mass. It's going to take some rpms to keep that thing moving especially if there's any wind. You're driving a brick and pulling a brick lol.

What direction are you thinking of going? Not saying it can't be done with your current rig but if you plan to tow the rv a lot and for long distances I would think bigger tow vehicle would be a more comfortable towing experience. The drive should be just as relaxing as the camping experience itself.

 

[NiamLeeSin]

It's a gas motor so it's going to rev up if while towing. I'm new to gm's (just got our 15 suburban a couple of months ago, wife's vehicle so I rarely drive it) but from what I found the max torque is over 4k rpm and max hp is over 5k. Sorry if I missed it but I take it your rv is a non pop up type and has a large frontal mass. It's going to take some rpms to keep that thing moving especially if there's any wind. You're driving a brick and pulling a brick lol.

What direction are you thinking of going? Not saying it can't be done with your current rig but if you plan to tow the rv a lot and for long distances I would think bigger tow vehicle would be a more comfortable towing experience. The drive should be just as relaxing as the camping experience itself.

Our requirements are 6 seats and can pull the 31' 6k lb trailer in the attached pic. We may either upgrade the Yuke to a sierra 2500/f-250 with front center jump seat, or trade in the trailer and get a class C. The wife and kids are excited about being able to mess around inside a class C while driving, but we wouldn't have a vehicle once we set up camp at our destination. And we can't really haul a 6 seater vehicle (I don't think). They aren't excited about the idea of using a jump seat as our daily family driving arrangement.

If anyone has ideas or experience with this, I'd appreciate any advice.

 

[15burban]

It looks like some class c's can tow 8k lbs and more but which ones I'm not sure. I don't have much knowledge about them. Everyone's situation is different but I wouldn't think a long trip pulling a camper with 3 people up front would be very comfortable.

Hopefully someone else chimes in or maybe you can find some more information on some rv forums. A guy could go the class c route and then drive the yukon behind it. You'd need 2 drivers and the cost of fuel would be higher. Just a random idea.