2014 Tahoe transmission

[Youcanfixit]

Hi all,
I have Tahoe 2014 with 6L80
Base on this website transend.us, I don’t know how I can verify it.
The transmission is slipping and I have been told by transmission shop that it’s the torque convertor.
I drove it home and I got the code P0797-00, should I try to replace the convertor if I will replace the convertor alone should it be ok or I need to replace the transmission also?
What years of Tahoe/ Yukon have the exact transmission? I see some websites that mention that 13-14 have different transmission form the early years

Thank you

 

[donjetman]

@NickTransmissions

 

[Doubeleive]

Hi all,
I have Tahoe 2014 with 6L80
Base on this website transend.us, I don’t know how I can verify it.
The transmission is slipping and I have been told by transmission shop that it’s the torque convertor.
I drove it home and I got the code P0797-00, should I try to replace the convertor if I will replace the convertor alone should it be ok or I need to replace the transmission also?
What years of Tahoe/ Yukon have the exact transmission? I see some websites that mention that 13-14 have different transmission form the early years

Thank you

10-14 should be the same, but I could be wrong. *edit there is a powertrain grade or braking or hill start or some feature difference that was addded in 2013 I think but that may be a electronic feature only. there was something added... @swathdiver knows

I would recomend going thru the whole thing if doing the TC, it's going to suck to have to pull it twice, especially if it is already giving you problems.
^ this is what the shop should have told you already.
doing the TC proactively is something people do "before" there are any issue's.

 

[NickTransmissions]

10-14 should be the same, but I could be wrong. *edit there is a powertrain grade or braking or hill start or some feature difference that was addded in 2013 I think but that may be a electronic feature only. there was something added... @swathdiver knows

The year/vintage isn't as important as the specific OS installed onto the transmission's TEHCM which, if swapping in used 6Ls, the replacement transmission's TEHCM must have the same part number (242xxxx) as the current transmission, otherwise it won't work without reprogramming. If the TEHCM part numbers match and vintage is the same then you can be certain it will work as a direct swap. You would just need to do fast-adapt relearn. The alternative is to simply replace the replacement's TEHCM with one that has a compatible operating system from either GM, Sonnax, Street Smart Trans or another vendor in the aftermarket. Fast adapt relearn will also need to be performed.

Hi all,
I have Tahoe 2014 with 6L80
Base on this website transend.us, I don’t know how I can verify it.
The transmission is slipping and I have been told by transmission shop that it’s the torque convertor.
I drove it home and I got the code P0797-00, should I try to replace the convertor if I will replace the convertor alone should it be ok or I need to replace the transmission also?
What years of Tahoe/ Yukon have the exact transmission? I see some websites that mention that 13-14 have different transmission form the early years

Thank you

I'd recommend simply rebuilding your transmission, going through everything (recondition/replacement/updating/upgrading) as required...Swapping in used units are a crap shoot (you may end up with two bad transmissions instead of one in a relatively short period of time). Get a TC with an upgraded, thicker converter clutch (.050 to .070 thick) and, if you tow/haul or high performance, billet cover. Once done, install everything, fill it up following the proper fill and check procedure then perform the fast-adapt relearn using a scan tool with that capability (I use Snap On Verus but there are many others that will work; note that TECH 2 will not support your year as I believe 2013 was the cut-off for those). Note that a fast-adapt relearn must be completed any time service work beyond just a fluid/filter change is performed, or transmission replaced with either a used, rebuilt or remanufactured unit - otherwise the transmission will not function correctly.

You can check out my 6L80 Info thread if you want more specifics - link is in my signature.

Quote my post or mention me if you have any additional questions and I'll reply as soon as I can...

 

[Youcanfixit]

The year/vintage isn't as important as the specific OS installed onto the transmission's TEHCM which, if swapping in used 6Ls, the replacement transmission's TEHCM must have the same part number (242xxxx) as the current transmission, otherwise it won't work without reprogramming. If the TEHCM part numbers match and vintage is the same then you can be certain it will work as a direct swap. You would just need to do fast-adapt relearn. The alternative is to simply replace the replacement's TEHCM with one that has a compatible operating system from either GM, Sonnax, Street Smart Trans or another vendor in the aftermarket. Fast adapt relearn will also need to be performed.



I'd recommend simply rebuilding your transmission, going through everything (recondition/replacement/updating/upgrading) as required...Swapping in used units are a crap shoot (you may end up with two bad transmissions instead of one in a relatively short period of time). Get a TC with an upgraded, thicker converter clutch (.050 to .070 thick) and, if you tow/haul or high performance, billet cover. Once done, install everything, fill it up following the proper fill and check procedure then perform the fast-adapt relearn using a scan tool with that capability (I use Snap On Verus but there are many others that will work; note that TECH 2 will not support your year as I believe 2013 was the cut-off for those). Note that a fast-adapt relearn must be completed any time service work beyond just a fluid/filter change is performed, or transmission replaced with either a used, rebuilt or remanufactured unit - otherwise the transmission will not function correctly.

You can check out my 6L80 Info thread if you want more specifics - link is in my signature.

Quote my post or mention me if you have any additional questions and I'll reply as soon as I can...

I never built a transmission before, and in my area they quoted me 4800$ for rebuild so I’m trying to look for other options.
TC is 600$ minus 200$ for core in rock auto
i have some used transmission in my area for 700$ to 1000$

 

[NickTransmissions]

I never built a transmission before, and in my area they quoted me 4800$ for rebuild so I’m trying to look for other options.
TC is 600$ minus 200$ for core in rock auto
i have some used transmission in my area for 700$ to 1000$

Check the specs on that Rock Auto converter - confirm it has a converter clutch thicker than .020-.025...If it doesn't or you cannot confirm, don't buy it unless you want to be right back in the same boat as you are in at the moment. Most of Rock Auto parts are made to factory specifications, regardless of whether that's a good thing or not. Find a local torque converter builder and have him go through your converter...Ensure he installs a .070" thick clutch and checks the cover for warpage (replacing it if it's warped)...Some on here have had luck with Florida Torque Converters and their converters are upgraded to eliminate the crap factory design flaws.

I know a lot of folks like to think they're saving money with a used trans and that the risk / reward proposition is in their favor. But I've rebuilt too many of those things to know better. 4L60Es and 6L80s have a generally poor track record when installed as used in my experience, owing to their major pattern failures (3-4 clutch in the 4L60s and numerous issues in the 6Ls). I've rebuilt many such 'used' transmissions that lasted less than 6 months then it was time for an overhaul...Primarily, the 6Ls all eventually suffer from 2-3 shift issues, reverse delayed engagements and 5th gear slippage/loss due to leaking base welds in the 3-5-Reverse clutch drum...Later model units (2012+) have better welds and other updates relative to earlier ones but 90% of are leaking after about 75k miles or so. The other areas of concern are aggressively worn pump PR valves resulting in excessively (and dangerously in some cases) high line pressure, failing TEHCMs, wear in various parts of the valve body, including check balls getting stuck in the spacer plate (if the #1 check ball gets stuck, you lose all forward movement; #5 sticks and you lose reverse).

If you do decide to buy a used unit, make sure it's from a salvage yard with at least a 6 month warranty (maybe you'll find one that offers a year if you search far and wide) and make absolutely sure the part number on the replacement unit's TEHCM matches yours (you can call a dealership parts dept and see if you can get the TEHCM part ID via your VIN from the parts guy).

Good luck with your search, reply back if you have any questions.